All Activity

Glad to be alive . I’m a lucky guy for sure . It’s fancy but it’s all business too:)

@madkaw That’s pretty damned fancy madkaw……good to see you’re still alive! 🥳

Today I didn’t do anything but drive it !!

Finally figured out what was up with my log ins . Anywho- went to ZCON . Me and a buddy drove down the 4.5 hours from Indiana . The Z drove great with the freshly tuned ITBS. Had most fun in the parking lots talking nuts and bolts . Finally got to meet Captain Obvious . Wish I knew he was there earlier and could have spent more time hanging out .

VR1 10W30 $26.97 5 qt. jug, new filter $8 at Walmart. Cleaned and gapped ngk plugs $0. Adjusted valve lash $0. Idles smooth as glass. Took maybe 2 hours. Satisfaction for myself, PRICELESS! Beer:30 now.

Here is the SU tuning kit mentioned in post above. I just checked on eBay and they are available for $40. The small aluminum fitting laying on top of the gray package is the one I was referring to.

9 times out of 10 the problem on 4-screws is a misaligned nozzle, particularly if the large retaining nut underneath was loosened for some reason. There is a tool to help center the nozzle. If you take the needle out of the piston you insert the tool instead, which centers the nozzle in the casting. While the tool is in the piston and the piston pushed down in the chamber, tighten the large nut in place. Once the nut is tight, remove the piston and remove the tool. Before you re-insert the needle, chuck it in a drill motor and spin it to make sure it is perfectly straight. If it is, reinsert the needle in the piston and screw the dome back on. I'll take a photo of my tool and post it here shortly.

This is for you, not your car.🙂 Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners. I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38". Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!

I agree with @Zed Head. You can count on those being destroyed. You may get lucky with the booster. Look at the bottom of the MC and see if it has been leaking and the paint on the booster in that area will be gone with rust residue. I wouldn’t put any fluid in either. Take them off first.

Your clutch master and slave cylinders are probably corroded and have bad seals. If it's been sitting for ten years. Your brake master cylnder also, along with the rear wheel cylinders and maybe the caliper bores. It's just what happens. I would remove the brake master cylinder before trying to use it, before you squirt brake fluid in to the vacuum booster. If you're lucky the brake booster is dry and still usable. Nickels and dimes...

Very cool! I love my ZCG brake kit. The KW stuff is probably amazing, but I can't stand the purple and yellow:)

Not racing related, but Newman and Redford, back together again… RIP Bob.

ITS ALIVE. i decided to take off every electrical connection off and deep clean each pin. they didnt have bad corrosion but the copper had turned green where it wasnt connected for the last 20 years. I double checked each pin ohms coming through the ECU and finally got each reading within spec. Started it up and boom perfect idle. I appreciate all you're guys help. the resources and information helped a ton. now to bleed the clutch, find out why the break pedel is stuck and see if this thing can move!

You are right! Mechanic should get this engine running with pertronix ignitor module 1761, 1.5 coil and 1.5 ohm ballast.

Maybe this is the point where you decide which you want most - working tach or good running engine... Back when I learned to drive - and for years thereafter - cars didn't come with tachometers. They ran and we drove them all over the place anyway. (but, from the factory that car ran VERY WELL with a stock coil, a stock ballast resistor, a stock distributor, AND a stock tachometer. Just sayin')

Okay, cool. thanks for the correction.

You need to read this. It will explain how the things work that you're playing with.

You need to read this. It will expalin how the things work that you're playing with.

I love the 510. Never owned one but…

Ill try it! See what happens. Right now we have the pertronix 1.5 coil installed with 1.5 ballast

I can't give up... So troubleshooting I eliminated the air idle valve for a moment because it felt like it was choking the engine too much and it not idles but rough. I also think the connection is bad with the TPS. In the attached video I am trying to make the connection solid and it starts to idle down. PXL_20250916_015703945.mp4

@cgsheen1 made a suggestion, Are you not willing to try it? Takes 2 minutes.

First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. Actually the tachometer and the ECU use the same circuit for the coil discharge signal, from the coil negative terminal. It's branched. One end goes to the ignition module for spark creation, one to the tachometer for the RPM measurement, and one to the ECU pin #1 for injector timing. Every third spark the ECU squirts half the fuel "calculated" to be necessary.

The thing is my mechanic solved the rough idle and misfire after take off from long traffic by installing an msd blaster 2 coil replacing the pertronix 1.5 coil and 1.5 ballast resistor. The problem is the stock tach does not work with the msd coil which i believe is 0.7 ohms. Going back to the pertronix, the tach worls but the car runs bad.

Don't throw the parts away. They have value to somebody.