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Guys, it sounds like this is resolved. Yes, it is possible to block notifications, ads, javascript, etc. With modern browsers it's also possible to do this without knowing it. It looks like this issue has been resolved (per OP) so I will close this thread.

Alan - play nicely now....

Your clutch master and slave cylinders are probably corroded and have bad seals. If it's been sitting for ten years. Your brake master cylnder also, along with the rear wheel cylinders and maybe the caliper bores. It's just what happens. I would remove the brake master cylinder before trying to use it, before you squirt brake fluid in to the vacuum booster. If you're lucky the brake booster is dry and still usable. Nickels and dimes...

This is the most passive-aggressive thing I've ever seen. Well done!

Polite and serious question - and of course you don't have to answer if you don't want to - but are you by any chance 'on the spectrum', in the modern parlance? If you are it would explain a lot, and I might adjust my own interactions with you accordingly. Thanks.

Very cool! I love my ZCG brake kit. The KW stuff is probably amazing, but I can't stand the purple and yellow:)

Not racing related, but Newman and Redford, back together again… RIP Bob.

I defend myself against unwarranted attacks - texasz came on here on the 26th and by the 29th all had been sorted however during that time you and another attempted to dissuade my client from buying from me ! Yes, I'm not the strongest at IT - each to their own, can you make exhausts ?....... and it was my IT guy that mumbled something about windows and logons - what do I know.... As for my customer base - texasz wasn't yet a customer so how would he be in my customer base. It's sorted for texasz so let's move on, please - have a great day.

ITS ALIVE. i decided to take off every electrical connection off and deep clean each pin. they didnt have bad corrosion but the copper had turned green where it wasnt connected for the last 20 years. I double checked each pin ohms coming through the ECU and finally got each reading within spec. Started it up and boom perfect idle. I appreciate all you're guys help. the resources and information helped a ton. now to bleed the clutch, find out why the break pedel is stuck and see if this thing can move!

You are right! Mechanic should get this engine running with pertronix ignitor module 1761, 1.5 coil and 1.5 ohm ballast.

Maybe this is the point where you decide which you want most - working tach or good running engine... Back when I learned to drive - and for years thereafter - cars didn't come with tachometers. They ran and we drove them all over the place anyway. (but, from the factory that car ran VERY WELL with a stock coil, a stock ballast resistor, a stock distributor, AND a stock tachometer. Just sayin')

Can't imagine buying something from Dezart. He attacks people that offend him, doesn't keep track of his customer base, and apparently has trouble with simple internet processes. What do the words below even mean?

Okay, cool. thanks for the correction.

You need to read this. It will explain how the things work that you're playing with.

You need to read this. It will expalin how the things work that you're playing with.

I love the 510. Never owned one but…

Ill try it! See what happens. Right now we have the pertronix 1.5 coil installed with 1.5 ballast

I can't give up... So troubleshooting I eliminated the air idle valve for a moment because it felt like it was choking the engine too much and it not idles but rough. I also think the connection is bad with the TPS. In the attached video I am trying to make the connection solid and it starts to idle down. PXL_20250916_015703945.mp4

@cgsheen1 made a suggestion, Are you not willing to try it? Takes 2 minutes.

First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. Actually the tachometer and the ECU use the same circuit for the coil discharge signal, from the coil negative terminal. It's branched. One end goes to the ignition module for spark creation, one to the tachometer for the RPM measurement, and one to the ECU pin #1 for injector timing. Every third spark the ECU squirts half the fuel "calculated" to be necessary.

The thing is my mechanic solved the rough idle and misfire after take off from long traffic by installing an msd blaster 2 coil replacing the pertronix 1.5 coil and 1.5 ballast resistor. The problem is the stock tach does not work with the msd coil which i believe is 0.7 ohms. Going back to the pertronix, the tach worls but the car runs bad.

Don't throw the parts away. They have value to somebody.

Photos are of the original N33 exhaust manifold I removed from my 73. Replaced it with an earlier one when I went to round top carbs. I confirm you need a different downpipe. I was able to swap my 73 downpipe for an earlier one.

I think im chasing my tail on this one.... This morning i repalced a few fuel lines as 5-6 started to leak and crack from the fuel pressure. I also used some electrical cleaner to clean all the electral connectors. I started to engine and it can now run past 10 seconds without fail. not sure why. but great! the issue now is its running very poor. Rich and extremely low idle. I tried adjusting the AFM and idle adjustor but nothing is effecting it. I double checked the ECU connections and now im not seeing any ohm readings on the appropiate pins for the AFM and the TPS. I checked the TPS internals and connectivity is all there. it must be the wiring somewhere. In the end i wanted to get the engine running and it is! so thats fantastic. I think im done troubleshooting this thing and im just going to leave it as is for the moment. I plan on replacing this entire ECU/AFM & fuel system anyways with megasquirt or similar system. No need to fix this system if im going to be getting rid of it. Now its time to tear things thing down to the frame.

Easy test, take the ballast RESISTOR out of the equation: Take the G/W wire OFF the ballast, hook it up to the B/W that's connected to the other end of the ballast. Run the engine. Is it better? Is it worse? Don't notice a change at all? (Better: leave the ballast out - figure a good way to connect the G/W and B/W permanently cuz VOLTAGE. Worse: hook it back up the way it was. No diff: Hook it back up the way it was - if you're sure there was no change.) (I haven't said yet what I'd really recommend which is: replace all your harness wiring, especially the engine bay harness which suffers the most degradation over 50+ years of living on this Earth... Few people listen - even me - I'm just barely doing that in my own car (and it turned 50 last year).)