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First project after getting the roof attached was the passenger front fender support . I had cut up two 240z’s years ago and had a whole front clip left. No easy way to do this either .I was tempted to buy the sections from KF so I wouldn’t have to disassemble the front clip . In the end it worked out .

I got those on eBay back in December of 2010 from a fellow named Jason Ellis (jasmaster1@yahoo.com). I don't know if he is still active there but here is a currently active listing there for the gauge overlays (https://www.ebay.com/itm/116754738195?_skw=240Z+gauges&itmmeta=01K6VECE8NHA8V1JRWG7KECTFX&hash=item1b2f1fec13:g:HYIAAeSw8fdosIdf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f7RDWuP4ip3L0xi8Epcs3MGzRnIDxeRpwRTiJTFo%2FyXhMMsfddLn9Ap%2BvCn%2FGIN7AmIPoYfEWRqx3LB%2Fb6vtgs1LiOt5M%2FxbtHCoHbKvaiVhw88gQ%2FXqNsLGyyDOluqQraCdGuUIvEXpINFE6kLubse8%2BlZzyix9Z0uWrrXO5tkWb9pzBDEuh0sjE%2FAYFzMlq8Eno8bfz8eo23vQRsM6D91r88a95CHj9SIRMV4k31WB5gT629KVQ75UisBeYw%2FCU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9zkse62Zg). I just saw that Z Car Depot also has these overlays on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/333353236584?_skw=240Z+gauge+overlays&itmmeta=01K6VERGB27HD9RGDN98R029CQ&hash=item4d9d66b868:g:IT0AAOSwKA5bx61X&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e7wRbXJooQ7dodz55p%2FpfL3%2FDnI4KnIpEfg3F3lVeIRyEHeGgeVSHLqgbLDNDlk6GrqecMFTnyKkJMHxl2%2B5udEItKajJaOrn%2FBoiCSmcgSJn4Z6nYMS7V4iBywuzLaKtHbfHwXjdriTm7vfNRE4B4%2FIozubXeyBv1%2FUg%2By1bjHqNT4EMrXUYBymvBGdZxGrJ5CgNM8HF7LJ7MMqeYqRiTSXWaimnbZLBgGt%2BIsW5Uic4skEvPTSgm69RN3BRwRm0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-CF4u62Zg). I hope that helps you.

And the ballast resistor might have a short. It's part of the total resistance on the primary circuit, that passes through the module to ground.

Temp choke cables New problem, taller motor means the mechanical throttle linkage won't work I was wondering if the 240z cable conversion would work @KenFirch

Have you measured resistance through the coil? Too much current through the module might be overheating it. Might have a bad coil.

More random pics after running the 911

I like the white face gauges . Where did you get the faces ?

If you haven’t done so already, download the FSM for your car off this site.

Reading the factory service manuals.

The brown wire is the ground. The mounting plate is attached by two screws but thermal paste insulates the plate from the distributor. I'm tempted to make a heat shield for it but it hasn't had one for 50 years so why now?

You and I are kindred spirits!! I started my build in 2009 I believe. Time goes by fast! You're making good progress. Maybe ready for Zcon 2026?

Big milestone today: the dashboard is now back in the car since it was removed in 2008 at the beginning of this project. Lots of 'field mods' but that's the stuff that builds pride of ownership. Hard to believe that 17 years of "just plain life" have passed by. But, I'm on a roll now and I hope to be back on the road by spring.

I don't know where you guys find these detailed diagrams but I'm sure glad that you have and share them.

It lives!!!! 20251005_140045.mp4 IMG_4799.mp4

I know I found one in the past but I don't know where. The rear cargo lamp for the 72 510 wagon 26410-W9600 Does anyone have one or have a link?

The brake booster tool is nice. That's a nice find!

Maybe it needs a better module ground. And/or heat sink. The module looks like the typical GM module that grounds through the mounting points, and sinks heat through the contact of the bottom with the mounting surface.

Don't assume that new aftermarket u-joints will be better/tighter than used Nissan joints. Nissan's specification is very precise. Each joint came with clips of varying thickness so that play could be adjusted and set correctly. New aftermarket joints come with one clip thickness for all. I replaced a set on my car and they didn't seem any better. I actually removed them all and returned them. They were Precision from O'Reilly's. The Nissan joints are greaseable and are often just fine after a shot of new grease.

My 260z has a Mallory Unilite distributor, promaster Coil (#29440), and a Mallory Ignition Active Power Filter. Starting this year, when I drive it a short distance the engine just dies. When I go through the Unilite diagnotics, it show the ignition module has failed the test where I measure the voltage between the negative side of the coil and a ground with both the ignition module LED blocked and open. I've tried replacing the ignition module but the problem persists. Mallory's tech suggested a better coil ground so it now has a dedicated ground wire going directly to the battery. I can restart the car after it sits until the engine compartment cools down. The ignition module then reads good. It will run for just a couple of minutes but again shuts down. I don't think the fuel tank is building up a vacuum because opening the cap doesn't result in a rush of air and doing so will not start the car up again. I recently added a new radiator cooling fan to replace a fan that stalls and draws a high current and installed an under engine splash guard so I should be getting better air circulation. I got rid of the dead head fuel system a PO installed and the fuel now flows back to the tank to minimize vapor lock. The fuel pressure gauge shows adequate fuel pressure. Should I try a new coil or power filter?

What would be the reason for avoiding the coil power supply if a relay is used? If you're using an internally regulated alternator and it's wired correctly the L(amp) wire might work if you connect between the diode and the alternator. Or, since you've rewired for the ZX alternator there might be a leftover wire that was used for the regulator. You probably used L but did you use IG? Might just be sitting there waiting for you.

Half shafts across all years are the same replaceable snap ring retained ujoints.

OK, without the car actually being assembled for ready reference, I thought that might be a possibility.

I don't think that is going to work. None of the connections on the back of the alternator will do what you want. The connection that you are thinking of as "only having an output when the car is running" is connected to the battery. So regardless if the car is running or not, that wire will be at battery voltage.

Recently, I was able to obtain something rare, which I've been searching for five years, or so now. But let's start in the beginning. In 1937, Nissan registered a daughter-company called "Nissan Auto Sales Co. Ltd." as a sales division spin-off. In 1957, the same company registered the "NISSALCO" trademark, with the aim to develop and produce service tools for Nissan factories and workshops. They produced all kind of mechanical and electronic testers but also accessory parts for Nissan Car owners. Here is a picture from the Nissan Cherry assembly line, with a NISSALCO sign above every test bench: Today, the company is still existing, but under the "ALTIA" Name. In the early 70ies, they developed a Special service tool box for the Datsun 240Z sports. ST0929-0000. And yesterday, I finally got one, after many years of searching for it. The toolbox comes with a selection of Special tools for the 240Z. And this box came with a lot of extra tools inside. You can lift out the upper case, and then you have access to the lower level. Mine included also the Booklet that comes with it. So first, I had to get all the parts out and go through them. Luckily, i collected some of the Datsun / Nissan / Kent-Moore Special tools books over the years. And the box (even though without any part number or information) and some of the tools are also listed in the US-service manual: Sadly, I quickly realized that my purchase came with a lot of additional tools which do not exactly belong to the S30, but random Datsun's, and some original tools from the box are missing. It seems that the previous owner also recreated some missing tools. Overall, it's still a good starting point. After cleaning the box out, hammering the metal straight and fixing the locks. it started to look good. I wanted to keep the patina, but still clean up all the parts. so i gave them a quick wash in the parts cleaner: And then put the original parts back in: Assembled (some tools are not correct): And closed: The set also included this nice Nissan wooden tool box, with the lovely lock: I still have to figure out yet what this is used for, but i just love the looks of it: I'm also working on to restore the original manual that came with it: But it appears that the last few pages are missing and the back cover. But still better than nothing. It also has a very strange format, where each page is only printed on one side and then folded to have a print on both sides, which is a bit weird. That's it for now. I will try to keep finding the missing tools and pages. If you know something, I'm happy to hear from you. Expect some more tools related stuff in the coming days, but i also hope to work on the car itself again, in the next days. Stay tuned!

Pretty much rust free pieces from a 70 . Drivers side A pillar section and B pillar section . I won’t need these for my project . 250$ shipped for both