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Those are some really nice upgrades to the base model examples. Were there "pre-package" Euro deliveries which did not have some of these package features, or were they pretty much all grey market from Australia & elsewhere? Also, which of the described features were on all of the Euro deliveries, or were things like spoilers an extra cost option?

That sounds pretty good. The front of the car takes a pretty heavy beating over time as well. So, agree with Grannynot - part of the hood. You may want to do the front surfaces of the headlight housings and the three front lower panels as well. I think below the blue lines here: I think it best not to cut the edge so it is on the radius of a body line. Instead, I would cut it at the beginning of where starts to roll from flat... so about a 1/8th of an inch below that body line above. With flares, you will need to do something with the front of the rear flares as well. My track Z started getting beat up there quickly. I put electrical tape on (I like the silver and black contrast). I planned on getting something like the Porsche 930 has, but just never have. If you need to go with clear, consider doing something like this on the quarter panel. It will be visible. On the Z you may want to go from the front edge of the quarter panel (door opening) and along the 'waist line' body line... go far enough back to cover the front third of the flare and radius/curve the top edge down, so the PPF terminates covering about the front 1/4 to 1/3rd of the flare surface. The top and front edges of PPF will collect a bit of dirt over time. Just something to be aware of.

Heating + vice grips did the trick! I'd still like to learn the name of that fitting and get the proper tool for my toolbox.

I tried that sheet metal trick. I found a stout piece that fix snugly in the slot. It just bent the sheet metal! Since the coefficient of thermal expansion (Cte) of aluminum is around 23 but steel is only around 12, heating it should cause the alum to open more and loosen it's grip. On to the propane!

I think it's 4.275? thick?

Any input on a price, bare head, would be graciously appreciated. 😁

I would stay focused on the hot idle in traffic you have been talking about. If you haven't noticed the rough ride from worn suspension I wouldn't be concerned what the quick oil guys say. You'll see that in the wear of your tires. Google "240z struts". They aren't shocks.

Shop changed the motor oil in my engine yesterday and noticed both front shock absorber were worn. Any reputable and recommended brand for the 4 shocks? Any additional parts i should get?

I installed the front grill today. As you can see, the paint is a little darker than the original, but I am not interested in painting it for a third time, especially since I have a wrist cast for the next six weeks. Interestingly, when in the sunlight, the original paint does appear to be metallic. The metallic particles seem smaller, less noticeable, but they do reflect. This is not easy to capture in a photo (second pic here): Original grill hardware:

Thanks guys. I really don't want to get rid of her but life is getting expensive. I have a kiddo who will be going to college in 3 years and I'm in a house with a very small garage. One day I'll have a big garage or shop again and I'm sure that's the point I'll regret letting her go.

Nice new ride!

I fell off the spring cleaning bandwagon pretty quick but I will get some pictures today and post them. Maybe, with some help from the forum I can come up with a price. It's not OE anymore, bigger valve seats and an attempt at some minor porting. Came with a 240 I bought years ago as part of a hopped up 2.8 engine build.

My 12/70 car has the clip.

https://www.zzxdatsun.com/

What is the link to your site?

Hi John, I used vise grips and heated the manifold with a propane torch. It makes marks, but I polished most of that out and re-plated the part. If I had to do it again, I would try to find some sheet metal that was the thickness of the slot. Maybe cut a 8 inch by 2 inch strip and slide the long edge in the slot. Use heat and, grab the plate like handles.

Triple SU carbs...I've never seen that. That car must really scoot! Sorry you "might" have to let it go. I don't know your situation, but everyone who has had a 240Z always says...."Man, I wish I had kept that car." So, again, I'm sorry you could lose her. She is very, very nice! I found mine on BaT. I can't imaging letting go of her...

Hi. How much for the E31?

jup, i got a clip on the chokecables feb 1971 (USA) car.. my '72 car had one too. that was a (Dutch) euro version.

My son has a 72 240Z that he was trying to restore. Last I talked with him, however, it sounded like he was giving up. It needs a number of areas adjacent to both rear wheels and there could be more patch work. With the wheel area he keeps saying that it is inclusive of the structural areas...and we may have the equipment, but nobody is a good welder/sheet metal worker. I was wondering if there are any recommended folks in Seattle that you all have used. Appreciate it Bob Weaver

Exactly what tool is used to extract this threaded fitting? I hope there is some type of socket that engages these slots. Help!

Looking for a set of 15 x 6 American Vector wheels for 280 Z

Yes, those fuse links are actually mine - just haven't had time to update my site. Hell, haven't even taken a picture! Should probably get on that.

@Captain Obvious thanks for the info on the alternator. I will check that out when I get to that point. Also, new fusible links and harness firewall grommet just arrived today from jdm-car-parts.com. I will attach them in the next week or two here.

Yes, they are on order.😄