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It doesn't really matter to me.

My comment was about the headlight power supply switch. This thread is about the turn signal part of it. Your best path forward is to address the comments of the very first post. It's business, not personal. Ba da beep... Good luck.

Yes, I mentioned it in a previous post. Spin the wheel by hand, pull the handle. See what happens. Sometimes you just have to take things apart again. I remember replacing a transmission on the same day that I had just finished installing it. It had a leak that only happened while in use. Good luck.

Here's the start. Notable that there's no way for too much voltage unless there's a problem with the voltage regulator. I think he meant current. The best way to handle disparaging comments is with postitive comments. Take the high road.

That is because you do not completely disassemble your switches before restoration. You also have not unlocked the hidden performance upgrade in your turn signal switches due to certain modifications. It's amateur night at best.

It was nice to see truthful information about this issue from another experienced person to cut through the character assassination that passes for knowledge from some of the members of this page.

@Zed Head Is there a test I could do if I jack the car up and pull the e-brake a few times or would that not tell me anything?

Yes it's 19 on the drawing.

You won't know until you use it.

19? https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft/19 https://www.google.com/search?q=39628-E4100

Have you tested or tried to rebuild the horns?

Absolutely! Will take me a little while, but the quality and sound were great on the test run!

I put a set of Jaguar horns on my '83 Turbo back in the day. Great sound and always surprised people that is wasn't the typical Japanese "meep!" I wish I could remember what model I lifted those from.

Yep, it's right 'chere:

@Mcbtuba Any chance you can post a photo of your install? I like the Retrosound stuff they've been coming out with lately. Might be nice to install one myself.

I believe these bolts are 10mm x 125 threads and 22.23mm long. I'd like to replace those as the 54 year old rusted almost stripped ones that I removed I'd rather not put back on. Does anybody know where I can find these special nuts, bolts & lock washers? Most likely they are hardened as well. Thank you in advance for any tips or directions that may come my way.

Steve, though I’m sure you’re not surprised, it worked! Thank you!

@Zed Head If I know the adjustment gear turns since I backed the pads in, does that mean the system is good? I really don't want to fight to pull the drum off again.

It is also important not to mix adjusters from one side to the other, as I believe they are handed

Thank you Zed, I didnt take any good pictures of the transmission yet, so i zoomed in on from another photo. I think it is the 4 speed F4w71B. I think i remember seeing the plate with 6 bolts infront of the shifter. Doing more research mine is a 01/77 build so its more than likely a 4 speed. Once I'm closer to finishing the build i think i'll try to buy a 5 speed.

It will even both sides out. It affects the adjustment of the shoes so will affect the brake pedal. Can't remember for sure but I think that you will also feel the brakes apply a little higher on the pedal after a notch gets taken up. It's one reason that seems rational for converting to disc brakes if you're in to precise brake performance. Should emphasize though that you need to be sure the parts are clean, lubricated, and not worn, in order for the system to work correctly. You can test it with a drum off by pulling the cable by hand and watching the parts move, I think.