All Activity

Ok, I got the race-sport header and can confirm that it will not clear the oil pan with the heatshield. I of course learned this after the engine was in the car and was not about to remove it so I rolled up under the car with a Dremel and cutting wheel to cut the heatshield off. Once that was done the header fit just fine. Hope this helps keep you from being covered in sparks cutting the heat shield off after installation like I was. :)

You can get them for a 4-wheeler at your local motorcycle shop. They have those metal bands that work great instead of the e-bay ones that send you zip-ties.

I could have waited, much longer!

It will be interesting to see how the BaT S30.world/Garage 44 auction goes when it is (eventually) listed. Im guessing the 240-Z has been shipped to the USA to sell rather than be passed in.

Sounds good! Make a plan and stick to it.

When I spoke with Sean @ ZStory, he recommended the Street-sport or Race-sport for my build. I'm leaning towards the street-sport, but as my build increases in cost, I may just re-use the MSA header I have for now and get the ZStory later, especially with the tariffs and all...

Here's a good one. Couldn't wait for Saturday. https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ?si=grkFLcz2wcNdPoJP

Yep. Been down all those paths and I STILL don't know (for sure) what size they actually are. I see what you used, but I don't think you used what was intended to go in those holes. I've seen more references to BSPT than anything else, so I suspect that is what it is. There are MANY holes that can be plugged on these cars; holes in the block, holes in the exhaust manifold, holes in the thermo housing, etc. Looks like some may be just metric threads (which are a parallel thread), some are BSPT (I'm presuming, will confirm) and some others may be BSPP. I also googled, "240z balance tube plugs" as was suggested in the thread you linked to, and many of the resources provided by Google were links to places where one could purchase said plugs, but they were not identified as to which size or threadform they were, in fact, a couple of the sellers provided two different plugs with two different threadforms and said both, "will work". Call me picky, but I prefer to use the proper fitting when a threaded hole is provided.

Instead of saying "good morning" like normal I say "sigh". It's never good.

I used basic brass plugs from Lowes. 1/4" and 1/8" for the balance tube. Also used thread sealant that I had from making a fuel rail out of aluminum with brass bungs. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51SF7HJG4AL._AC_UL320_SR194,320_.jpg

So....on this same topic, does someone have the definitive answer as to what size the balance tube holes were originally tapped to? How about the outlet ports on the thermostat housing? When I bought my '71, the PO had roughly carved a plug out of wood and wrapped a piece of bailing wire around the balance tube and over the plug to hold it in....I drove it that way until I pulled the engine for my current L28 swap project. At one point, I picked up an NPT plug and tried to plug it but realized the NPT was not the factory fit, so I put the wood back in and left it 😄 (Now that I think about it, that may have been a contributor the obnoxious gas fumes....) LOL. Now I am looking to properly plug all of the unused holes and would like to know what standard was used at the factory so I can acquire the proper plugs. I have done quite a bit of searching on this topic and have not found any definitive answers. At some point, I'd like to Identify all the sizes and compile a list for the Z community to avoid future "mashing" of the wrong size plugs into parts that are becoming harder and harder to find in good condition. I just placed an order with McMaster-Carr for 1/8 and 1/4 BSPT and BSPP plugs and will use them to check the different port sizes (that is, IF I can remove all of the rusty OEM fittings!!! LOL).

Which ZStory header are you getting?

Cannon Manifold and three 40 DCOE 151 (spanish pedigree) weber 151s. I have had these apart and cleaned them but they still need to be gone through and verified. I had them on my Z car running since 2012. Pulled them off and need the space in my garage. Comes with oversized rod ends, and throttle arm mounting bar (less deflection), which is a modification of my own. Carbs are complete. I am pretty sure I have the air horns that came with them. I can ship to anywhere in the CONTIENTAL US, but shipping will be on the purchaser. I will box them up in a protected WEBER carb box individually. For the manifold and carbs I am asking 800 dollars plus shipping. Please give me an email at sdamico555@Gmail.com

As I've been saying for some time now; the upper middle class collector car market has been depressed for at least the past 10 months. Yes, should have taken the 90K.

My 1971 Z didn't Have rubber Bellows type dust cover boots on the strut rod. The manual doesn't show that the car came with that. But it seems like a really good idea to add those before I reassemble the struts Any thoughts on that idea?

I'll post pictures. It takes about two weeks.

I'm installing new KYB's I like the idea of a light coating of lube on the inner walls.

Sold for $101K on BAT in 2019... Adjusted for inflation, to break even it needed to sell for $129K in todays money. Nonetheless in todays market - $90K was a pretty strong offer.

A little doesn’t hurt to prevent rust in the tube.

The VR Z did not reach its reserve. Didn't get to its last sale price either. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/

Thanks for replying. From out here, the post reader, the sigh sure does look like a comment. Just couldn't tell what the comment was about.

Post some pictures of the rebuilt damper after you get it back.

The original struts used special oil. Aftermarket strut insert replacements don't need any oil. Not sure what you're working on. p.s. if you click Signature, put stuff in the box, and save it, it will show up at the bottom of your posts. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/

I was hoping to hear those words. Make sense. Thanks