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Try snapping the throttle open and see what pressure does. It's not RPM that causes change it's manifold pressure. If you just ease the throttle open intake vacuum/pressure won't change much. The numbers look good, actually very good, 26 psi indicates very good intake system vacuum.

Strange Fuel Pressure I finished replacing my fuel pump today along with all the rubber fuel lines at the pump except the one that goes to the tank. In addition I replaced the fuel filter and all the rubber fuel lines going in and out of the filter. Started it up and still have low fuel pressure. My gauge reads about 26 lbs and doesen't move with higher rpms. However, when I disconnect the vac. hose to the regulator I get about 38 lbs at adle with no real change at higher rpms. I replaced that regulator along with a bunch of vac. hose about two years ago (2000 miles) because the old regulator was really rusted and the smaller vac. lines were in rough shape. Do I have a bad regulator? Any ideas?

Nice looking car. Not perfect but a nice driver

How bad was the old one?

Here's a Z for somebody looking to get in to the game. Down in Texas, but titled up here. RV camshaft. Whatever that means. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-176/

The seal was riding here: Those wear marks indicate where the yoke was rubbing up against the bushing. Those weren't there when I installed the prop shaft. I confirmed the extension housing bushing was worn, allowing the main shaft and yoke to move excessively. Unsure if the prop shaft was balanced properly when it was shortened. The local place I took it to for balancing after swapping in the new yoke said it looked like it had not been balanced. Additionally, the weights they welded onto it were not tiny. So, perhaps the prop shaft was way out of balance and that is why this happened. I was able to the transmission out on Thursday, and get the rear housing off, replace the bushing, and get it back together. But, I wasn't able to get the transmission back in the car. Unfortunately, my wrist got injured in a soccer game last night, so I won't be able to get the transmission in for a while longer.

In Utah we have no safety inspection anywhere, emissions are by county. In the counties that are trapped between 2 mountain ranges they do have emissions inspections and it so happens that the trapped counties have the majority of the states population. If you cause an accident due to some safety issue you didn't get fixed it's not pretty. Rust... Yea, we got plenty in northern Utah where they use massive amounts of salt when it snows (plenty of salt beds around the Great Salt Lake). I really don't see safety issues other than cuts if you grab a rust hole.

Goggle “Throttle Pulley”. Came up with several sources. efihardware has nice stuff.

Too funny! 😂 I routinely see cars with large rusted holes in them. They seem to work fine. Also in my state there are zero vehicle inspections! No smog, no emissions, no brake light check etc. It doesn't seem to create carnage on the roads. What does seem to create great issues is the invention of the smart phone! Which some drivers can't seem to put down long enough to get to where they're going!

Also.. mechanics that check wheelbearings and stuff around the wheels with a tire iron and using the aluminum rims as a base to put force on something.. if i see that happen i'm asking him to stop or i'll put some force to something HE does not like! ;-) For the last 30 years i had a mechanic that did every APK (sort of MOT) every year on every car i have together with me and it has been GOLD. evry check-up costed me the standard 40 bucks and away i was, good for another year or even 2. Now these days cars of 50 years and older do not need any APK ( periodic roadworthiness inspection) .. and i think it's nonsens.. Our government thinks that people with that old cars are so much caring for their car that it does not need a inspection.. which i think should be at least every 5 years or so? In our country, things like shown in youtubes american " customers brought in" or something.. does not happen here.. i saw some cars in that "show" without any frooring in them and completely broken beams, gearboxes and and.. If a car in the netherlands has a rusty spot/hole as long as say 5 inches it's not roadworthy, it's illegal to drive that car any longer and you get high fines if you do. it first needs to get fixed properly!

story.. I always do tires myself in a friends shop.. he does my APK sort of MOT.. AND i'm ALWAYS PRESENT once a mechanic wanted to do to my 300zxtt what go's wrong with every 240z engine beams.. i was furius and it did not happen as i refused it. i really had to stop him! it would have ruined my perfect 300zxtt! BUT.. But we have a big tireshop here in the village.. I needed a new tire on my wheelbarrel.. So i took the old one off and cleaned up nicely my rim, sanded it and painted it the original red color.. I went with it to the tire shop and asked the boss himself if he had a tire for me, yes we have, give me the rim and i install it for you for free! I said: no not necessary! I rather do it myself! No,NO,... he insisted.. He ran from his office to the tire shop and started work, he had in no time the tire on, at least that's what he thought.. on the lower side the inner tube was still hanging out.. every body knows what happened next haha, luckely i was standing on the other side of the shop. he started to fill the innertube and .. KABOOOEEEMMM !!!!!!! that was the end of my own inner tire! Now i got a new inner and outer tire for the price of a outer wheelbarrel tire.. but it shows how much go's wrong at firms with decades of experience... At least he didn't scratch the new paint! 😊

Great! I’ll send you a PM here and we can exchange better contact info.

I am conveniently in this situation it seems, in the Calgary area @zKars . I definitely would appreciate if you're able to see if you have something in better nick than mine.

I can help with a hub I think, will look tomorrow for sure. What part of western canada zRot? @ZROT

I agree, I would find a different hub. Either in Canada or import from the US. Also the later axle nut from the 280zx I believe is self locking so no staking necessary

Cheaper to ship it also. I’d go with a replacement unit and be done IMO

That's a big area. If you're near Calgary, @zKars might be able to help you with a replacement hub.

What you're saying sounds correct. I've read about the rear hub race surface wearing/wallowing. The guys that race see it more often. Hybridz has some stories. I wonder if there is enough material there to be machined and sleeved. A good machinist might have better ideas. Metal spray or welding, for example.

I'm located in Western Canada Yes, there is a B Spacer/Distance Piece and its a B Hub/Strut Assembly. I previously measured the spacer and it appears to be in spec according to the FSM and I don't see any damage to the spacer. The outer threads on the stub axle aren't spectacular after removing the original stub axel nut so I'm going to get them cleaned up at a machine shop but the inner threads (where the nut actually sits once tight) seem to still be good so I'm assuming the compression forces were decent esp once I got it up to the full 240 ft-lb even if the nut may have been affected by the less than perfect outer threads on its way on. To be clear, I can still hand tighten the nut on to the stub axle on the bench with the companion flange out of the way, but its quite draggy through first few threads. I already have ordered a few more new stub axle nuts as well in case the new, just removed but not yet staked, one got damaged. The washer that goes between the nut and companion flange is also new. All to say, my suspicion is that the outer-diameter of the inner wheel bearing has some play in the hub which I imagine should be an interference fit and I shouldn't be able to slide the inner bearing in and out of the hub by hand. Since the outboard bearing isn't tapered, I would imagine it cannot offer much resistance to radial movement of the inner bearing leading to the play I'm seeing. Feel free to correct me if anything I'm saying here isn't adding up or if you need more pics to help me figure out what's going on here. I think my first move is to figure out how to get the inner bearing to fit more securely in the hub. Thanks!

Was there a spacer in the hub along with the bearing? They are stamped a,b, or c according to the thickness.

Yeah I agree. So I took the day off today so I have the time to remove the transmission and replace the rear tail shaft bushing. Headed out to the garage shortly to start on that.

I'm pretty sure this one was electrical. I put the circuit boards from the working clock onto the gears and face of the one that wasn't working, because they looked a little nicer, and the clock has been working since. I suspect its either the crystal or that part that the gear with the magnet? goes in that makes it turn, because it wouldn't turn with all the other gears detached from it.