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So... While we're here. Anybody have an educated guess as to the gauge of wire used in the original cables? The common choices here in the US are 4-gauge, and 2-Ga. You can get others, but those two are the most common.

There goes Roo again showing off his ebay prowess. Your kung foo is the best.

Oh, and it's been many moons since I've looked at that connector on the end of the EFI harness. I assume the terminal contacts inside are replaceable? Have you looked into that?

Glad you found something. Are you sure you have identified the root issue there? Reproducible at will? Double dog sure? And as for the mystery about behavior, electrical intermittent connections are like that. Barely making connection by a molecule. Does unpredictable stuff.

I really, really want one of these. If my 289Z were fully restored and I had no need to spend money on it, I would definitely get one.

Don't overlook that when you have the connector disconnected from the board that the solder joints are probably less-stressed. I didn't see the common cracked solder joint problem mentioned in the thread. For some reason the internet is not picking up the old threads when I search. I only came across one. I've seen the others though.

RESULT: Loose harness connector(s). Now to figure out how to either tighten/tweak the harness connectors...or replace them 🫤 There is still a mystery (to me, at any rate) on why the engine would sometimes simply shut off like a switch and sometimes stutter-stop, and why sometimes it would re-start immediately and othertimes re-start 10-20 mins later. My hypothesis is that by simply getting in/out of the car while diagnosing I was re-wiggling the loose connector(s) such that they had good-enough connections, and the changing fault symptoms were a result of different pins or a different combo of pins losing contact. The end result is the same: Fix all the connections and do pin-drag tests on all of them to make sure they are sufficiently grabby. Thank you to everyone. I hope it was fun for you too.

I was very lucky to find a full set of 4 carpet clips in a recent parts haul. Never actually touched one, vaguely remember a thread here about them 74995-E4100 Qty 4 in the fiche. Three are nice enough to use, yellow zinc plating is pretty good, but one is a rusty mess. Usable, could just sandblast and spray yellow zinc. I see SS reproduction sets on some of the usual vendors. JDM-car=parts has a OEM refinished group of 7 for $99 USD. Asking $50USD for my set of 4 plus postage.

Keith buy a battery bolt and round off two of the corners with a grinding wheel, https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1680C-Battery-Terminal-Bolt/dp/B0076EVKO8

My mechanic really sucks. Look at the way he set my timing. He argues that everything needs to be subject to trial and error. I know i have a schneider 274f cam installed but 20 degrees?

There was a solid clue during setup...when sliding the connectors into the harness...they are whisper-tight. Meaning: Not at all. Solid money is on worn out/loose harness connectors but we'll see if banging on ECU does anything after the normal "give up and die" timeframes of 20-40 mins.

Know this is an old thread. Nevertheless, while checking the su carb set ups and other things, i found out the last mechanic had set the timing as attached. I do have a schneider 274F camshaft. Shouldnt i have 14 degrees the most? I guess my timing is really out of spec. Mechanic set as as shown in the pic. Shouldnt it be lower?

The test is still running for the next hour....but so far here is the score so far: Team "Replace ECU": 0 Team "NOT the ECU": 1 8.mov

Test rig installed...

Great! Any suggestion on how to duplicate the bolt head? Thanks, Keith

Keith I picked up a NOS 240Z battery cable off EBay and it has the rounded head.

That said, the test rig is ready to roll. Time for quick bite and then, ACTION!

Because the curious mind must KNOW. For me, owning a classic car is really the journey. I get great satisfaction from understanding all the ins-and-outs of...well, anything. If I drive it, fly it, sail it, race it, ride it, eat it, grow it, run it in my house or office, or if it has moving parts or does anything that impacts my life in any meaningful way, I am driven to know how the thing works, and/or how to build/repair/grow/write/create my own. I like making things.

I’ve seen those bolts with the one flat side that keeps it from spinning when you tighten the nut. I remember having to wedge a flat head screw driver underneath to keep it from spinning.

I am in the process of refurbishing a pair of original battery terminal cables. After removing the terminal clamp bolt on the negative cable, I noted that bolt (6.0 mm x 1.00 mm x 1-1/4") had a rounded “U” head to match the profile of the terminal clamp. As you can see from the attached photos, there is no indication that the bolt head was modified with added metal to reshape a square or hex head bolt to form the rounded edge. Has anyone else seen a terminal clamp bolt with this rounded “U” head? Thanks, Keith

Patrick Bateman's favorite song.

This was a huge help for me since I had no clue about the carbs. I'll also add mine was a hard start too until I adjusted the valves. That helped a lot.

S30.World.com, order one and consider it done.

I have to ask why not just keep a set of spares that are still functional and enjoy the car? I applaud you for trying to fix the ECU if that is the end result you are looking for.

hanks for the tips, I was using the choke. I need to give the carbs a once over in general, as it hasn't started right since I got it, I just had to deal with the gas tank first (which has taken forever) so haven't had a chance to get back to it, but slowly getting there