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RESTORATION PROJECT DONE & CLEARING OUT THE SHED. NO REASONABLE CASH OFFER REFUSED. L26 Motor with E88 Head- 074185 4 Speed Transmission - Likely L4W71B Aluminum Radiator Door Window Frames (L & R) Fiberglass Headlight Scoops (L&R) R-200 Differential 4:11 R180 Differential 3:36 2-Hitachi 3 screw Carburetors (HJG46W?) Mounted to N36 Intakes NEW - 2 each 12" Electric Fans with Controller Set of 4 - 280ZX Wheels Front Bumper with Valence Panel - Good Condition Rear Bumper - Bumper Ends Good Center Poor Full Sets of Windshield and Rear Deck Glass Stainless Trim Grille Front Valence Pieces New Rubber Weatherstrip - Window Glass Run, Rear Deck Glass, 1/4 Window, Cowl to Hood Windshield Passenger Window Glass 1970 Deck Glass with Vertical Defroster Wires TOO MANY MORE VARIOUS PARTS TO LIST!!

That boss could be a surface for locating the part in a machining fixture.

I had knee surgery and am starting to fool around with my Zs. The carbed 240 was a little more trouble to start. I think the bowls had evaporated all the fuel out. For some reason I decided to hit my precious carburetors with a small tack hammer. The lord only knows how many have dents from being hit, trying to knock the floats loose. Well I saw the most obvious thing ever before I started whalopping the sides of my float bowls. Is there a chance in hell Skinner Union or Hitachi put this boss there for any other reason? I tapped them both a couple of times without leaving any marks and that little baby roared to life after getting a flow of fuel. Could Skinner Union/Hitachi have some foward thinking or did they just put a big chunk of aluminum to show the fuel level?

Gotcha. Well that explains the "newness" of the connector, but I still don't know what the intent of that wire was. Still the only real idea I have is that it was intended to be a ground connection to the antenna. I'm thinking maybe they thought they might need to make that connection to the antenna, but then decided they didn't need it? I haven't yet dug into that corner of the car I have here, but I should be doing that soon. It's a mid-70 car, and I doubt I have that wire, but I will check when I get there.

Regarding the spade connector on the black wire, I replaced the original with a new terminal. There is an earlier picture of this section that shows the original, although the cover is so dark that the terminal type is not clearly visible. Typically, I replace all terminals and their respective covers and most connector bodies on all of the harnesses.

Thanks for the picture on the spring installation. I will make sure to correct that.

And I have no idea at this point what that black wire is on your harness. Interesting that the spade connector on it appears new? At least newer than the bullet connectors just upstream. And not only does it appear newer than the rest, but it is the spade style intended to be used in a plastic connector shell. You can see the retainer tab on the face of the brass contact. Usually if the spade was not used in a connector housing, they used a style that did not have that retainer tab. Seems really unusual, or unlikely, but what are the chances that a previous owner made a modification to the harness to add that wire? I got nuthin'. I also find it interesting that your front calipers don't have a date stamp. We talked about caliper date codes a little while ago, and I wanted to see if yours lined up with the theories we discussed in that thread. But yours don't seem to have the same markings. Here's the caliper date code thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68569-caliper-date-codes/

Haha!! Thanks for the pic. And I'm glad you put one up. because..... Respectfully submitted, your springs are on wrong. I made up a cheat sheet last time I was into mine:

I seem to remember when an Aerovault was $11K... Bring a Trailer2024 Aerovault MkII LT TrailerBid for the chance to own a 2024 Aerovault MkII LT Trailer at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #194,177.

My guess is it will stay at $71, 970, but you never know. Just like houses here, bidding wars can get nuts.

Looks good

Does anybody want to guess on the final bid then? Will it break 100?

I have to guess then that this auction is for a select crowd that already knows that. I looked through all of the paperwork and the description and don't see Chuck's Frame Shop mentioned anywhere. Seems like it would be worth advertising. There is a Chuck mentioned, findable if a person looks closely, in one of the images. I guess that people in the resto world would know about him. It's a fascinating world. I don't live in it but it's fun to watch.

Hi Zed…..No, Chuck’s Frame Shop is a restoration shop…..mostly Porsches. He did two of my cars….both took two years. He, in my opinion is the absolute best…..no corners ever cut. I also use him for other items like spoilers…front and rear and he took the side panel strip off my silver 73 and matched the original paint to perfection. I don’t know the seller, but the owner is a good friend and never lets price get in the way of a great restoration. Here are a couple Chuck did for me.

Just for clarification, the transmission info on page 7 has no relevance to this thread. We will use the original stock transmission for this build. Thanks for the info on the antenna. I added a couple pics for reference. I do not think it is an antenna ground wire as it is very long. It extends approximately 20" beyond the antenna power wires. Also, it breaks out at the junction of the speaker wires and left signal lamp. I can confirm that the wire is black, so most likely a ground. It also has a heavy black shielding over it, so maybe it was intended to pass through the body to something near the fuel tank. Interesting. Also added a pic showing the 10/69 date of the harness. Added a pic of the rear break springs installed just for the Captain 😊 I rebuilt the front brake calipers with new seal rubber, retainers and pads. I cleaned them up first and then hit them with a clear coat to prevent future rust. (Notice the ones on the current 1970 BAT car). I then installed them on the front stuts so they will be ready to install once the body shows up. The body shop work is progressing, always the long pole. The passenger side rear quarter panel has been welded in place. Right front section behind fender has also been replaced, battery tray removed and holes plugged on right fender that once supported the aftermarket AC. The rear hatch has been installed and the flanges that attach to the hinges have been welded up. Next to be installed will be the lower rear panel. And, once the rotisserie is free, the new floor panels will be installed.

Are the seller and the restorer the same person? Chuck is Garage44?

Wow…..This is a tough crowd. Not everyone restores a Z to exactly mimic what came off the showroom floor. It just doesn’t get much better than this, and he probably won’t make much if anything on the sale ( I’ve used Chuck on all my restos and he ain’t cheap). Also, the little hole in the air cleaner for a couple thousand miles is a no event, but I use a wine bottle ratchet cork to seal mine. Amazing that he came up with a rust free Series I…..that just doesn’t happen very often on a 55 year old Z.

Does this really mean that $71,970 was over Reserve? There's still four days left. Probably get no more bids. Posting for entertainment now. These high dollar auctions are usually interesting.

That big bid to $71,970, from a previous bid of $28,500, is still interesting. Like somebody that owns some already wants to be sure the "value" stays high. My cynical view. I don't think that seller understood the point of the question, of unfiltered air in to the newly rebuilt engine. Actually there isn't much discussion about the engine. Normally a Datsun Spirit engine would be a big deal. But it only cost about 8% of the bid value, so far.

That's what I've done I my 1/71 leaving everything hooked up and complete.

A sloppy resto-mod (how I hate that expression)

But in all seriousness, it's a beautiful car. It's a very well done resto-mod, not a period correct restoration.

Well, I'm glad to be of service. Hahaha!! Yeah, I'm, thinking he should have plugged that something like 1500 miles ago. 😞

Probably would have looked better to just leave the smog pump on and the hose connected. A rubber plug will do the trick, though.

And replied to. Something like "because there's no air pump... I guess I should plug that"