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Nice, people can always PM me for it at €300,- (It's a clean unscratched clock the last time i checked, if not it will be less offcourse. And i send pics before selling.)

@Mike

Those are some cool turnbuckles with the moe clamp ends!

RUST!!! Random pics of rust before I started chopping and treating rust . I’ll put a link to a YouTube video I made regarding Rust911 . The rust seemed bad but my buddy said “ nah- it’s too bad” . He got me started on rust911 . Being a scientist he did controlled testing on various products on the market for treating or getting rid of rust . He’s currently doing a 72 Volvo 1800es. He had treated his car with amazing results . I followed his methods and I’m still using them to this day .

Looks like I forgot the pic of the turnbuckles . Once i tried a door and hatch to match sure my gaps were decent I finished welding things up . Getting the roof on was the big hurdle . It killed me to just walk past this car all these years and not do anything to it , but without a roof it would have been a waste of time . Now I could finally take to ordering panels . In case anyone cares this car is being built for me . I know there will be skeptics of someone welding a roof on but I feel confident enough to drive this until I can’t drive anymore :) Some videos I watched of chopped roofs made my install look better - ha .

Mine was clearly an adhesive failure and not a cohesive one. I suspect folks who have cars that have been out in the summer sun for many years might have the cohesive failure you experienced.

You guys probably know this but if you're trying to restick an original headliner often the foam backing is so degraded that it fails internally, not at the surface. Just posting for anybody who ends up like I did. I used 3M contact adhesive in a spray can. But the foam was "toasted" (literally) and it sagged again. I never did scrape off the old foam and try again. What I should have done.

Thanks for your input, Mark. I installed the headliner first using some spray can adhesive I'd bought some time ago, probably from Motorsport Auto. All went well with the installation and I was patting myself on the back about it. Then, two days later the headliner was sagging in the middle. Figuring the solvent just needed time to evaporate and escape, I tried pressing it into place using coroplast pieces (coroplast is the stuff used to make most yard signs these days) wedged in place with appropriate lengths of scrap 2x4 lumber. After a week the headliner still sagged so I had to remove it, use xylene (a.k.a. xylol) to remove the spray can goop from the metal and that's when I went to brushing on the Weldwood HHR. No further problems.

Un restored I would guess about $375-425. Ron

I replaced a headliner in a Toyota a few years ago and passed on the Weldwood Contact Adhesive because of the price and quantity. I used 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. It comes in a spray can and was easier (more forgiving) to use than contact adhesive. The 3M has held up well, and I'd definitely use it again.

I agree. I bought a couple of pints of the regular stuff when I first started my upholstery work and quickly went through those (brushed everything on, no spraying) so I bought a gallon of the HHR and will likely have half of that leftover when finished with everything. Maybe I should rebuild another Z just to use it up? Oh wait, I have one of those...

Adhesive type matters. I have found contact adhesive available at local stores isn't good enough for high heat (automotive) applications. With interior temperatures going well north of 100 degrees repeatedly, it let's go. This stuff does not. It is only available by the gallon, and has a relatively short shelf life (a year or so), but I find it to be amazing, and crucial for any adhesive application in our cars.

Thanks for your reply, inline6. Here is that portion of your build thread. Excellent pix. Very helpful. I'll check out Grainger, McMaster-Carr and others for thin neoprene foam. As and aside, I tried searching just the "S30 Interior" portion of the forums for this specific topic before posting this new thread, but "vent" returns over 500 hits and I didn't want to spend the time investigating each one's summary to see if it was germane. I know, I'm just plain lazy. But I remember spending countless hours in the departmental library "stacks" tracking down references in Chemical Abstracts back in the pre-computer days. Probably added 6 months to my graduate degree program doing that. March 19, 2024 Author comment_663237 This past weekend, I rebuilt the side vents - the ones that are opened/closed via the knob underneath either side of the dashboard. The rubber parts that seal around the edges of the disc that moves to close/open were dry rotted, but intact. I thought about installing them as they were, but when I poked at the rubber, it crumbled easily. These vent mechanisms are actually pretty difficult to remove/install, so I decided to rebuild them. I have some thin rubber sheet I got from McMaster-Carr some time ago. It comes in handy for making gaskets, and applications like these. For each vent, I had to first remove all the old rubber material. Then, I cut two semi-circular pieces a little over size so that the edge would fold over seal against the ID of the housing. I then used the contact adhesive I have been using to glue them into place, one on one side, and one on the other. To finish up, I cut some 1/8" this open cell foam which seals the vent housing to the car body.

What would be the price for a unrestored clock like that with a single knob calendar clock that is in my "collection" and IS running fine? It's for sale..

This is how the msd blaster 2 got wired to the tach, distributor and ballast. Hope im not missing anything. Tach is working but plug 4 is still getting fouled at idle.

Here is a post showing a bit about what I did to redo mine: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63087-restoration-of-bringatrailer-240z-hls30-35883/page/63/?&_rid=2858#findComment-663237. I can't find it now, but someone found a material that I thought may be a better choice. It may have been @Patcon. The rubber I used is very durable, but it is rubber sheet. I found it to be less "shapeable" than the original foam like material. If I had to do it again, I'd look for a very thin neoprene or more foam like material, as I think this material would folder around the edges of the flap better.

I redid that foam on mine but decided disassembly was a bad idea. I bought some thin foam off amazon. Glued it on an closed the flap to hold it. Trimmed to fit after it cured

What year is your car? How about a description? Stock, modified, round tops, flat tops... @Patel Homes

I get that question a lot, but no I’m not a home building company. My focus is more on real estate solutions helping people with smooth transitions when it comes to property. Sometimes that means working with homeowners who are moving on from a place quickly or buyers who are looking for the right opportunity in a competitive market. Whether it’s relocation downsizing or buying house in connecticut the goal is always to simplify the process and make it less stressful for everyone involved.

@Patel Homes Are you a home building company?

It sounds like you’ve really put Seafoam to the test and proven its reliability compared to other stabilizers That kind of long term success story with both your 620 and Z gives a lot of confidence to anyone debating fuel storage products Also good to know Z Specialties is still active and running strong even in a smaller setup.

Has anyone ever rebuilt or otherwise repaired the floor vents on their S30, the ones operated by the pull knobs under the dashboard? I'm starting to reattach all my interior bits and pieces, I noted that after only 54 years, the "rubber" that seals the vents closed has cracked and broken off in a few places which is plainly evident in the photo. That will make for some drafty driving in cool weather. I estimate the material thickness at about 1 mm (1/25" or 0.040"). I see 0.040", 60A durometer, adhesive-backed, transparent silicone rubber sheeting (about 1/2 square foot) on Amazon for $11 so that's my target material at the moment as the silicone should never "dry out" and get brittle. Anyone have an alternative? Also, the movable flap looks to be held in place by and pivots on two pins that protrude into the air horn and look to be retained by plastic, friction-fit washers. Has anyone disassembled one of these and determined if everything survives the process to then get reassembled?

Up for sale is a single knob RC calendar clock that is completely refurbished and converted to fit the 240Z. This is a plug and play install. Price : $550 Plus tax and shipping. If interested please contact me: ron@zclocks.com

The company known as SPAL no longer sells trinkets like the units you and Dave Irwin used back then. But the current units - there appear to be two basic designs, what I call the "separated drive system" like you, Dave and I have and the "combined drive system" where there is only one connector between the drive motor and the actuator that goes on the door handle spline shaft. You pay your money and you take your choice.

I have rebuilt circuit boards for the 75-78 280 OEM clocks and single knob RC (calendar clock) . Your core circuit board is required and the cost is $78 plus shipping and taxes . If you are interested or have questions please contact me, ron@zclocks.com Thanks for looking