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So today is my last work day before I leave. One day left. Then a two day journey to get there. Flush my cooling system one last time and hope for the best. Check the valve lash. Balance the carbs. I was going to change the oil, but I've only got about 400 miles on it and it's really not even time yet. Anyone near Christiansburg, VA that wants to help me change my oil tomorrow evening? Hahahaha!!

Awesome. Thanks Jim!! Wish I would see you at Zcon!

I'm almost... say 95% sure that bend in that contact arm is original.. It's there for adding just a little more stability to the contactarm.

If you’re going to dent the race car, it helps to own the team!

The lower one in the pic is correct for your car.

My 240z is not really silver, it's more of the silver blue Porsche color. That's one of the reasons I want to repaint it, besides the fact that the paint is 25 years old..... the guy that painted it last time, didn't want to do silver because it was difficult to do right........

So how bad do you want your turn signals working? Hahahaha!!!! ☺️

Today's question is about windshield wipers. The silver arm with the black "rod style" blade assy is what I have on my 280. The arm should be black like the blade, but all of the black has come off over the years. The other arm and blade came off the OG. Which style is correct for the OG?

So today's event was I spent some time working on the original starter. Took it apart, cleaned and lubed, and reassembled. I had been using a gear reduction starter from a later year because the original was struggling in the beginning. Now that I have the motor and carbs gone through, the engine starts with the flick of switch and I don't have to grind out the original starter to get it to run. The original starter works great.

Yes, silver is a tough color

My build date is 7/70, and I do not have a hood on the map light. I'm way before 21000... I'm just over 6K.

Yes, that's the exact same experience I had. Trying to get the hose clamps on peeled back the braiding. The braiding wasn't adhered securely enough to the rubber tubing underneath. The stock stuff was way more robust than that. I like to think that I'm pretty good with my hands, and I ruined two of the pieces just trying to get the clamps on. Took the screws completely out of the clamps to open them up even further than they were designed to, and still messed up the braid sheath. Not impressed, and for the money, very not impressed. I believe it's the only game in town... Resurrected. I get it when its the only game in town, you pay "only game in town prices". But at least you expect to be satisfied with the quality at the end of the day. Last thing you want is to accept paying the price because it's the only option, and THEN finding out the quality is less than stock. I'd be trying to work on replacements, but I simply don't have the time at this juncture.

Was curious because I'm gonna try my hand at that at some point.

Tempter!! I would have to drag it...

You've probably heard these songs but didn't know the artist. Same guy. He wrote one of them. Wahhh wah wah wah...

@cgsheen1 Maybe you can help with my tach. After my mechanic did my zx distributor in my 240Z all was well for some time so I guess it's wired correctly. Then one day I was out for a drive and watched the tach all of a sudden start climbing and in a few seconds it had gone all the way over to 8. I shut the car off and sat for a minute then started it back up and ever since it doesn't go above about 3500 RPM. My ballast resistor is removed. Other than that my car runs just fine. Any ideas, maybe a coil change? There's no marking on my current coil so I don't know what ohm it is.

Very nice. (I'm also happy that you don't have any body side molding...) Could be just camera, but if you look at the two pictures of silver Z's you'll notice the slight difference in "tone". Not to fault anyone or anything. Two different painters can use silver metallic from the exact same can, and spray two slightly but noticeably different "colors". With silver, the flake is usually the majority of the color, and how the flake settles on the part will make a difference. As will the amount of material applied and the primer or sealer used underneath.

Not without knowing how your mechanic rewired your Z. Post pictures of the coil and ballast resistor wiring and the wiring coming back through the radiator core support to the coil and ballast. Although not uncommon at the time, Nissan used a Tach and wiring method not used in the later Z's - only the 240's. To make the Tach operate, the wiring starts at the ignition switch and winds all the way to the ballast resistor (a Black/White wire). From there they use a Green/White wire to go BACK to the tachometer, through a loop (stupidly simplistic explanation), and then BACK to the "+" side of the coil with ANOTHER Black/White wire. IF your mechanic omitted any of that, changed any of that, your tachometer will definitely NOT work... Your tachometer "reads" the amount of electrical current going to the coil to operate and in it's stock configuration it needed to go through the ballast before going to the tachometer and before finally powering the coil... If he just powered the coil, tach is dead. (Three wires here in stock config: 2 B/W, 1 G/W. If all are disconnected, the one B/W that has Battery Voltage when the ignition switch is in the ON position is initially attached to one side of the ballast resistor, the G/W is attached to the other side of the ballast resistor. That wire returns to the tach. From the tach the SECOND B/W wire goes to the "+" coil terminal. You can attach that FIRST B/W to the "+" coil terminal and the engine will run, but you've then bypassed the wiring to the tachometer.)

That's a nice color and wheel combination u got there.....

Silver is tough paint to spray evenly - even tougher to match ("even tougher" I said... nearly impossible). You want someone with a good deal of experience spraying silver metallic and that's not generally cheap. We always had very good luck with our supplier (Sherman Williams Automotive) and Datsun colors - what they had was very close to factory. I think we shot three silver Z's. Datsun metallic base paint is fairly inexpensive (for paint) and fairly consistent in price. It's the clear and hardener that will have a great deal of price variation. Be forewarned that cheap clear usually means greater LABOR cost or settling for a poorer outcome. Each painter you talk to will have a preference for the clear they use and they will have a reason they do so. If you go against their preference don't be surprised by additional labor or cost to get the clear looking the way you want it to. And please don't argue with the guy - after he's sprayed the paint you told him to. (Here in Phoenix our cost of just the final materials (sealer, base coat, clearcoat) of the brands we prefer would be just over $1,000 (using a very good clear but by no means the most expensive) and not talking of labor, fillers, or primers. We got a pretty good discount - and a painters discount may or may not be passed on to you. Paint cost is the very cheapest part of the job.) If you want the silver "to pop", spray dark sealer under the base. If you use a lighter sealer the silver metallic will look "washed out" and will not have as much character, For the most part paint IS NOT opaque. Underlying colors will have a visual effect - subtle but definitely noticeable. I personally despise masking around weather strip and trim. It may look acceptable at first but will eventually present a myriad of issues. Early on, we did one at a customers request and immediately afterwards made it a policy to NEVER do it again. You think you may be saving on labor cost to mask rather than remove but in reality labor saving is minute and the result is poor. We had several Z's come to the shop years after a "masked trim and weather strip" spray looking needlessly shabby. Pull the windows and trim and get paint underneath all the gaskets, trim, and weather strip. My last piece of advice - if you can't afford what the experienced painter quotes you just don't do it - don't look for a cheap quote. And, with a Z, you CANNOT hold him to an initial ESTIMATE (unless he doubles up). There are WAY to many unseen things that may pop up. (I said "MAY pop up"... Sigh... I can't remember a single Z in our shop that didn't have surprises unknown to the owner AND to us!) Oh,, ya,, we shot that. VVV

I had a similar experience with some repop braided hoses in that the braided sleeve was very difficult to keep in place while working the clamps...then as a result some started to fray.

No marks to be found - there is a strong smell of Chlorine though.

I think he's talking about the bend in the wiper arm.

ECCS is what Nissan called the computer for the ZX's. The 280Z's used an ECU. He has a 1978 280Z. At best you could correct people for adding the E. Electronic or electrical control unit.

Are there any witness marks where the cover sat? Residual dust patterns? UV light bleaching?