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Senna, Regarding your Pertronix installation I noticed in the first picture above it appears that you have the ballast resistor in the circuit. If this is true you should move the positive lead for the Pertronix module to the ignition (12 vdc) side of the ballast resistor. I you have bypassed the ballast resistor then your connections to the + and - sides of the coil are correct. I've attached the Pertronix installation guide for your information as it explains why I am making this comment. JPC Pertronix Installation .pdf

Also found this at the front of the car next to the passenger side lamp housing. 😐 New engine bay harness has already been ordered from Restoration Classics along with vent hoses. I've also gotten their zinc hardware kit and complete weatherstripping but ordered it through Summit racing. Same price but shipping was free with Summit.

Now on to the second part of help I'm in need of. I just wanted to double check that this is the correct connection for the resistor, coil, and distributor. The distributor is a Petronix. Looking at the top of the coil the +Positive is on the left and -Negative is on the right.

Hmm... Ok. I can't seem to find the Black/White and Green wire. There doesn't appear to be anything tied in under the electrical tape, or at least that I can tell. I've attached some pics if any of you can spot that connector or where it might be point it out. cgsheen1, noted about the fuse and impact sensor, those will certainly be added to the growing list. 3059B833-18DE-4968-9712-208BCEC811BC.heic 9820C1D0-2E57-48D3-9CF3-963FCA9666BE.heicE07385F0-A81B-424C-8081-247F872673BE.heic

Have you seen this? Inside a stranger's house with my parents and I was unwinding their phone cords.😇

thanks for all the help, I did install the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch last year as it must have been an oversite when I restored the car years ago, it did help big time. never thought to look up after the bottom hatch was painted and installed. thanks for making me look again at the license plate wire grommet which was replaced back then. years ago, I think back in the 90s I did purchase a black rear carpeted 6x9 speaker box from motorsport auto that replaces the back cover for the taillights. what I just found was the bass tube in the center has an open 2" plastic pipe that lets the bass out from behind the 6x9" speakers into the cabin. so, I used some black gorilla tape and closed up the pipe on the inside. if it does help which I now think it will then I don't mind losing some bass and having better air in the cabin. that weatherstrip in the rain gutter seems useless to me maybe that is why I never replaced it back then. but it was cheap enough that I will just replace it, so it is original.

Don't forget the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch...

The 20amp fuse referenced in the schematic is probably part of the assembly under the dash (in the vicinity of the fuse box) that Nissan used in the cars that actually had an electric fuel pump from the factory. The "fuel pump connector" under the dash - a 2-pin female with a Black/White and Green wire - may well have been tied together with wiring that included a 20amp fuse. Probably not a bad idea to include the fuse with an impact sensor while you're connecting those to enable power to the fuel pump wiring already in every 240Z body harness. (and again, the reason the electric fuel pump wiring as referenced in the schematic wasn't allowed in the US is the LACK of a "safety mechanism" to stop the fuel pump operation in a collision)

Also check the vent hose seals from the fuel tank where they come through the floor. The grommet at the license plate light where the wires pass through the rear pan. The seal around the filler neck and the grommet at the drain for the radio antennae

gotcha - so in that case, are the curved edges of the washer really necessary for proper operation or will a flat washer do? I called courtesy nissan down the road and they can get it but its $22 for a washer - I couldn't believe it!

My OCD would have me doing both the same BUT I doubt that it would actually matter. The real purpose of the pins and springs is to keep the shoe in place while you get the drum back on and to provide some anti-chatter.

Spot The Bot!!! @Mike

I am going to change the door seals that I did use years ago that are made by precision to the s30 world door seals that I already ordered. it will let my doors close tighter as the precision makes them stick out a little. it can only help when the windows are closed anyway, but with the wife anything will help. she does not understand it is a 51–52-year-old car with no catallactic converter.

my z is an early 260z, and I did check the main weather strip using a dollar bill that will not slide at all around the hatch. I did change the taillight gaskets but is did very little to help. I could not understand why Nissan did use that seal for water management as the water will only run down the back anyway. maybe is it designed to keep less water out?

It's there strictly for water management (by design, it can't contribute to sealing off exhaust gases from the cabin because covers only the top and sides of the hatch opening, while remaining completely open to the outside at the bottom). If your Z is a later-model 240 (where there are no vents on the lower hatch surface), the most likely culprit will be your main weatherstripping ("the large weatherstrip that's been installed years ago"). It may have lost some of its original shape after years of living 99% of its life in a crushed state while the hatch is closed. IIRC, some owners also found that the gasket around their taillights housings had deteriorated, allowing exhaust gases to enter the cabin through the rear panel. If your Z is an earlier-model 240 (vents on the lower hatch surface), that's a whole different (and more challenging) ballgame. There are several threads on the CZCC site that discuss problems (several) and remedies for this design.

Here's another from CZCC. I seem to enjoy this topic.

This post from the past on Hybridz is informative. Says that the wire is not connected in the cabin. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83355-wiring-in-electric-fuel-pump/?do=findComment&comment=789840

Edit - and congratulations. Looks like a solid car. This is 1972. It shows an inline fuse. Not sure where it is though. But the diagram shows it by the fuse panel.

Thanks for information!

I'm a new owner, recent purchase of this car: Bring-A-Trailer Auction 71 240Z I've gotten the rust fixed and am trying to get it to a reliable, driving car. Lots of things were wrong that weren't mentioned in the action. Like a leaky fuel tank and bad brake booster. New booster and master cylinder has gone in this holiday and also installed a Nismo fuel pump at the rear to get rid of the electric pump that was mounted to the block and wired to the ballast for power. I wired up the Nismo and no joy. I pulled the connections and put a volt meter to the black and green wires at the harness and I'm getting nothing. I've got extensive experience with working on cars, worked as a race mechanic during the 90's on Formula cars, and some GTs. Have owned two other 240Z (a 73 and 70) and have owned a 91 Toyota MR2 since 99 and done almost everything on. BUT, I know very little about wiring. So this is going to be a big learning experience, please help me out. Where should I start? I've looked a the fuse box and there doesn't seem to be any thing there for the rear pump. When I pulled the electrical tape to free the two wires for the pump a lot of dust came out of the female connector and I gave it a good squirt of electrical cleaner and let it dry overnight. But as I'm not getting power I don't thing that's the issue. I have a temp mounting bracket for the pump. Please see the pick and thank you in advance.

That's the fuel damper. It absorbs pressure pulses, from one end or the other. Not much to it and they seem to survive without problems. Don't forget that pressure after the pump is at least 36.3 psi. Those small plastic filters aren't rated for that. I made a loop in my fuel line after the pump to solve that sharp bend problem.

worked on the fuel system and a couple other little things today. The phillips screw stripped out so I had to drill the heads. Once I had the pump removed I had plenty of thread left over to pull them out with vice grips. I feel like this is the original pump since it had the goop on the terminals, however, I'm not sure why the wires were cut and just twisted together. Maybe an old replacement pump came this way. I'm having trouble identifying this part. I'm dont think its a fuel pressure regulator. I know there is one on top of the engine. The new pump doesnt have the outlet on the side, but it does come with a brake line style fitting.. Overall it just ends up longer. It will still fit in the bracket but I think I will look for a one piece elbow when I go to the hardware store for new screws. The part number on the box is E16078, it appears to be an O'reillys part and it appears to be correct for the vehicle. Rock auto also shows a carter pump that is identical. Has anyone put one of those cheap clear fuel filters after the fuel pump? I'd like to have one up in the engine as a prefilter for the OEM filter. I dont have a good way to clean out the hard lines and I would like to see if there is any crude in there I need to worry about.