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This maybe?

I bought mine from Futofab.com and they were plug-up and go. No changes on my end.

Am I dreaming or do I remember correctly that someone somewhere had created a plug-in pigtail that 'converted' our US based wiring to the JDM for use with the JDM lens? The purpose of the pigtail is to prevent from having to cut into the factory wire harness.

Thanks, Captain! This is a great tip. I learnt a pretty cool shortcut today.

You can do final torque to the center nut after installation of the strut assy on the car. That way, the three insulator studs are held firm by the car body and you can get a good torque on the enter nut. So keep an eye (or ear) on it and if the clunk develops again, it's quick and easy to snug those center nuts while on the car. If if happens again and torquing those nuts takes care of the issue, it might be time to get some new vibration resistant center nuts. Replacing those nuts is easy with the car on the ground... The weight of the car will keep the springs compressed and you can take that center nut completely off and replace it. Buzz one off, buzz new one on. Easy peasy.

Re: the strut lock nuts - if I remember right, these are the cone shaped nyloc style lock nuts. I couldn't tell if they were noticeably loose. I replaced my old 280z insulators with 240z shorter ones with the zpartsdepot's adapters. I used 60 ft lbs to torque them. I had to use my breaker bar wedged between the insulators' studs to hold them to apply the torque. I don't remember myself doing this 10 years ago lol - it is possible I didn't follow the FSM's torque specs to the letter. Now I have to tackle another project - there is some oil seepage around my oil pan/possibly rear main seal. I might have to drop the transmission, replace its seals/gasket as well. Really not looking forward to it.

I like stock cars but I also like modified cars. I like it when hybrid cars use a driveline from the same manufacturer. If I didn't have so many projects I would consider taking that one on...

Always looking for more correct data/information. What is incorrect?

Both upper reds operate as side lights and brake lights.

No, the Japanese market parking light system has its own bulb in each rear lamp unit. It's the one that is otherwise blanked off with the 'P' plug/grommet in the centre of the lamp unit.

I've looked into that. The costs into manufacturing it aren't light from What I've seen so far. I will have another look.

Sorry, partially incorrect PATCON - don't know what the hell that is but I'm pretty confident it shouldn't be called a Z!

Mr. Beck you're incorrect.

Were they noticeably loose?

Glad the clunk is gone. I assume it was the strut nuts. A small amount of play in there can be tough to discern with gas struts and spring pressure helping hold things still. But if it went away with some torque on the nuts, I'm guessing that's what the issue was. The fact that it appeared gradually over time is still a little disconcerting. Are they nyloc style vibration resistant nuts on the tops of the struyts?

Sorry Yarb, I still don't grok. Don't make me discorporate!

When I said played meaning AI.

The factory radio delete plate on these cars is interesting as they still fitted an antenna/aerial. I know some cars in the UK originally were supplied without radios and there was a rubber plug fitted in the rear quarter panel where the antenna/aerial was fitted, but this car is a different kettle of fish I guess. The only thing I am able to assume is that Nissan configured some of the program cars like this so that the new owner had the choice radio/stereo. Assuming 26th knows? Also interested to ask with the parts replacement on this car namely the rear wheel cylinders, steering rack and suspension bushes, spark plugs, rear main seal and exhaust system, if this car is now considered as not as per original factory program rebuild specifications or if the above is considered as consumables, ie normal wear and tear parts that need to be replaced from time to time? Am I being too picky? Maybe everything apart from the exhaust system.

The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-366/

Waiting for response...

Yeah, I like that Turbo 930

Actually, we are playing, not getting played. Playing the player. Training the AI. Some people get paid to do that. On the "trubo" misspeling, I'd guess that turbo is misspelled so often that it got scraped in by accident. Incorporate spell-check!

So factory operation of the JDM tail light?? Reverse is reverse Turn signal is turn signal and flashers Both upper red lamps are parking lights? Only one upper red lamp is brake light? Maybe the outboard one?

Yes!! As I mentioned earlier. Your getting played.