cgsheen1
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The FSM describes how to adjust the horn sound and its actually very simple (screw on the back with a locking nut). Not saying they'll sound like a Jag, but altering the way they sound is possible. I believe each horn is set to a different tone. -
There is a point where the adjusters will cease to tighten. If they're working properly, they shouldn't be the cause of a sticky drum removal. There are other factors that could be the cause. IRL the drum shoe friction material isnt that thick and they don't see that much use so there really isn't that much re-adjustment needed over time. I daily drive my 260 and have changed shoes once in 14 years. After you have them set properly you won't notice much if any park brake handle lock position change.
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Sorry, this 240Z dash is not in the car but here are pictures of the dash wiring and the unused connector that could deliver power back to a fuel pump. The wiring comes down the right side of the heater slider assembly with all the wiring to the fuse box and center console connections.
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🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!
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The cup or the embossed piece holds the spring and the small hole keeps the pin centered. I'm sure you've seen a spring that has slipped to one side - now you have spring steel that is potentially causing wear on the pin and backing plate due to it's abnormal position.
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Don't forget the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch...
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The 20amp fuse referenced in the schematic is probably part of the assembly under the dash (in the vicinity of the fuse box) that Nissan used in the cars that actually had an electric fuel pump from the factory. The "fuel pump connector" under the dash - a 2-pin female with a Black/White and Green wire - may well have been tied together with wiring that included a 20amp fuse. Probably not a bad idea to include the fuse with an impact sensor while you're connecting those to enable power to the fuel pump wiring already in every 240Z body harness. (and again, the reason the electric fuel pump wiring as referenced in the schematic wasn't allowed in the US is the LACK of a "safety mechanism" to stop the fuel pump operation in a collision)
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My OCD would have me doing both the same BUT I doubt that it would actually matter. The real purpose of the pins and springs is to keep the shoe in place while you get the drum back on and to provide some anti-chatter.
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The aftermarket hardware kit at O'Reilly's has 8 of those retainer washers rather than 4 retainers and 4 cup washers. One on each side of the spring to keep it centered and in place - would work.
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That's larger tubing than stock so you won't have any problems. Stock supply is 5/16 and on the 240's return is two pipe sizes smaller I believe. The 260's and 280's got a larger return that's one pipe size smaller than supply. My L28ET runs well with the stock 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. Hard lines and electrical harnesses are the first things that go in when Z is put together. Fuel lines snake from very front to beyond the rear suspension. Portions of the rear suspension are not that difficult to get out of the way.
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Not a "snark" - just a sigh from a bona fide Turbo Swap and EFI Enthusiast... Always have been and never apologetic. And although I sigh, I never fault anyone else's decisions concerning their own vehicles. A comment is just a comment, everyone has their own opinion, and some have greater experience in a certain sphere than others.
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Yes. Gasket and heat shield in one goofy thing..
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I used aluminum aircraft rivets - and like your pop rivets, I should have used a semi-tight washer on the squishy end. The sheet metal on the contacts is really thin. I also "re-squished" the (original) rivets on the bulb holders.
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