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Found 264 results

  1. Looking for more info on my 240z. 11/72 #30133548 Its all original, factory A/C, E88 orig head, dual round-top carbs(european SU), EasyRiders(rare)14", I guess I'm looking for more specific history,etc on the "very last" production number of 240z. Just b4 they changed in 1973. I know my car is "technically" a (73)... Is what I have more rare than the average US Datsun 240z ? Its all original Orange with back spoiler. Looks like stock Factory ??? Any specific info would be much appreciated. Ive read a lot of in general stuff. Trying to pinpoint where mine fits in with the history. Thanks
  2. I've been trying to source the circled part for 240z door locks to no avail for a while via craigslist, ebay, etc for months. It's the piece that clips to the lock cylinder in the door and connects to the linkage rod. The ones I have (being soft metal) are completely shot and allow the cylinder to rotate without locking to door. I really need a passenger side one more than anything and figured I'd reach out and see if anyone has one laying around that's in good shape and not too worn (or knows where to get a new one). Any and all leads are very much appreciated! Chris
  3. Hey Folks, Just a quick note that we're preparing the 2013 National Championship EProd car for its last season of full blown competition before it gets relegated to the Vintage ranks. Our racing starts up hard in January in Florida, so anyone down here at the time please make sure to come out. January 9 weekend at Homestead and the following weekend in Sebring. This year is special in that the SCCA has announced the National Championship Runoffs to be in Daytona. So, that's a first for this Florida boy that that particular race is within 3 days driving. We'll have a huge contingent in 2015 at Daytona including my brother who won the STL National Championship at Laguna Seca this year! Special thanks to Silvermine and John Washington with Ztrix for their help. Funny enough, I offered Arizona Z some free advertising on the car and he wasn't interested. Oh well.... All the best! Greg Ira
  4. John Beck tells a very familiar story about his first Z in 1971, selling it for a (cough) Volvo, and then finding another classic Z with John Coffee in 1999. A fun short video about why we do this kind of thing. Enjoy. https://vimeo.com/101361546
  5. The other day I was driving my datsun around and then it just died, It didn't sputter like it was out of gas and the rpm's were fine. After costing to the side of the street I tried to start it back up again, the engine cranked over but that's all. I tried it a couple more times and I got it to start once or twice but both times the rpms would waver and it responded negatively to me tapping the gas peddle, it died after 15-25 seconds. I checked the points and they were fine. The car has new spark plugs (less than a week on the car), new distributer cap/rotor/points (been on there a couple months never a problem), new ignition coil & condensor (ran for about a week with them until this), new water pump, also I drained the gas tank recently (it was clean), busted open the SU carbs they were fine (everything was in working order).
  6. Mike

    Classic Mad Max Z

    I just love this classic Z in a Mad Max theme... Posted by Francisco Penha on Facebook.

    © Francisco Penha & Mike Gholson

  7. Hi everyone, I just picked up my first Z, a 1973 project car that's totally disassembled but seems to be complete, and was originally Orange. I'll be bringinging the car back to original condition, with perhaps a performance modification or two. This is my second restoration, but my first import and my first Datsun, so any tips for noobs is much appreciated!
  8. I just picked up a '73 restoration project and am looking for some good Z books (this is my first Datsun). Does anyone have any recommendations? So far I'm looking at these: How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128022/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_11Ovvb0AAQRTR How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine: Covers L-Series Engines 4-Cylinder 1968-1978, 6-Cylinder 1970-1984 https://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128030/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_C4Ovvb1GA93K6 Essential Datsun Z 240Z to 280Zx: The Cars and Their Story 1969-83 (Essential Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1870979516/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_w5Ovvb17NTV8C Haynes Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z Manual, 1970-1978 (Haynes Repair Manuals) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0856962066/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_95Ovvb0RSM84Q
  9. Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
  10. So, one bit at a time my 1970 Z is finding its way back to respectability. Hope to have her back on the road in April. Some progress pics..... Front and rear spoilers are GONE, holes patched and sanded. Body sanded down and excessive bondo repairs replaced with mesh supported fiberglass. Hubcaps coming along (yes, I know they're the wrong ones for a 1970, but I like them). She's running solidly now, and the interior is about 80%. Tail light on the left has been polished and restored, one on right is as they came to me.
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