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Showing results for tags '240z'.
Found 277 results
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The car has been sold for $5000.00 to the first buyer who looked at the car. Thank you all for your questions and interest! If interested please contact me through Craigslist.org post id: 5569611377 This car has been stored indoors in Winton, CA (near Merced) and not run for the last 21 years or more. Original engine and transmission. It is missing radio, speakers, antenna, battery and some interior trim. Passenger side view mirror glass missing. It will need to be towed by whoever decides to purchase it. I will try to answer any questions to the best of my ability but I never drove the car and did not have the time to fix it. It comes with six repair/customization manuals- How to Modify Datsun 510 610 240Z Engines & Chassis by H.P. Books Shop Manual Tune-Up and Maintenance Guide Datsun 240Z Petersen's Complete Book of Datsun 2nd Revised Updated Edition Datsun 240Z/260Z Owner's Workshop Manual by J.H. Haynes Clymer Publications Datsun Service Repair Handbook 240Z Sports Car through 1972 Chilton's Datsun 240-Z/260-Z/280-Z 1970-77 Repair & Tune-Up Guide I will take $5000.00 cash or money order today or I will contact the party with the best offer on June 1, 2016.
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I need an early 1970 intake manifold with a balance tube that does not have the bosses for emissions equipment. I would also buy just the balance tube. This balance tube came on some early Canadian cars, and might have come on early Euro and JDM cars also. See the attached photo for what I mean, which is a photo of VIN 003778, which was sold new in Canada. Any information on where to source one would be welcome.
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Hi, I have read through and followed the http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html instructions numerous times for upgrading the distributor to a 280zx on a 240z and have not been able to get my tach to work at all. I have a 3 ohm coil, 280zx distributor and the car is an 11/70 240z (note that the majority of the instructions are for a 280z). I have spliced the blue/white and the green/white wires together from the harness. The thick black/white tach wire is to the postitive side of the coil and the black wire is to the negative. The black wire from the harness is to the distributor box and there is a new wire going from the positive end of the coil to the distributor box as well. Pictures attached so you can see what I did. What happens to the orange(yellow?) lead from the harness? Did I miss something or can someone weigh in on why my tach isn't working?
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Hey I will post pictures soon, but I was wondering how much I should pay for this 1971 240z: CONS Motor not running as of now Bad paint Cracked dash Needs new tyres Needs electrical work High miles PROS Neighbor Old racer with roll cage and back seats taken out Extra transmission ( I'm most definite) lying around Asked how much I want to pay Thanks for any comments
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This vehicle, which has always resided in Florida is in excellent condition compared to other Datsun 240Z's which are often found rusted out. The owner bought this (nearly) rust-free car as a project destined for a performance build. Being mechanically inclined, the customer is going to be doing all the assembly and upgrades but wanted us to take care of the body restoration.
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Fully disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications set of early Datsun 240z 4-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, linkage to the firewall and air filter housing with OEM Nissan air cleaner/filter. As an option, you may choose the customer K&N filter setup instead of the OEM orange filter setup, or have both for an additional $50. Domes and pistons are polished and bodies have been painted with high-temp Eastwood fuel-resistant paint and baked to cure. Also included is a Vacuum gauge installed on the balance tube to help diagnose engine problems and tune the carburetors This is a perfect kit for the 260z and 280z owners who want to upgrade to the reliable and high performance round-top carbs. Ready to bolt on and begin using! Professional installation is recommended as fine tuning may be required depending on the condition of your engine, gasoline used, and other variables not related to the carburetors. As with anything that is 43+ years old, these are not perfect but are great performers. This set is being sold as-is for $750, shipped anywhere in the USA. PayPal friendly and ready to ship within 1 business day of payment. More Pictures @ http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/10/240z-round-top-carburetor-kit-for-sale.html .
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I need the door locking mechanism for the drivers side door of my 1972 240Z. I'm not exactly sure what the piece is called but its stopped working after years of use and no the door won't close. If anyone has one for sale or knows where to get one. I tried craiglist or ebay but no luck.
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240z from factory made from different unibody sections
sparks240z posted a topic in Open Discussions
Follow up on this last thread. Has anyone run across a 240z that was assembled at the factory from two different front and rear unibody sections. The reason I am asking is that I have a car that has been assembled with parts from a series 2 and series one rear unibody cab. I can trace the car back to 1975 and no one in california in 1975 could have assembled this car without factory jigs. The body is in perfect alignment. My brother and I put over 150000 miles cruising california roads in between 1975 and 1985 and this car was perfect. All the serial numbers match including the engine -
From the album: 240z Project Car
November 2015 - just got the car - ready to start -
So I've been working like a madman on my 240z and replaced the wiper motor AND linkage (which I thought was the issue). The thing is this: Before installation, the motor works great and I can even turn the linkages freely by hand without issue. Once installed, the wipers won't move. This isn't the standard "wet glass needed" situation either. Without wipers on, the pegs don't rotate. Figured I'd ask for some help. The connections are all good, wiring is solid and the battery is fully charged. Thanks for the help!! Chris
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FSM's Factory Service Manuals Supplement Technical Service Bulletins Owners Manual Datsun 240Z L20 L24 Factory Service Manual.pdf Datsun 240Z factory service manual (Body + Chassis) Part 1.pdf Datsun 240Z factory service manual (Body + Chassis) Part 2.pdf 1971 FSM Supplement.pdf s30 chassis Supplement.pdf
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Bought this 73 240z year ago that had a 350 swap attempt. Also came with original motor and trans took it apart and cleaned it up and replaced ever thon with new parts new electric fuel pump new mechanical fuel pump new spark plugs and wires all new filters complete carburetor rebuild by pal tech but the car won't start there is fuel to the carburetors there's spark to the plugs I just don't know what to do anymore any help is appreciated?
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I really enjoyed this Discovery episode of Wheeler Dealers 2015. It's about a refurbishment of a 240z automatic into a proper drivers car. If you are interested in seeing a couple of guys swap out an automatic for a 5-speed and do a mild cam swap, this video is for you. Sit back and enjoy this full episode. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8G8s-LwCco
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240z Production History 11/72 Datsun Factory Racing Model
240ZDOG posted a topic in Open Discussions
Looking for more info on my 240z. 11/72 #30133548 Its all original, factory A/C, E88 orig head, dual round-top carbs(european SU), EasyRiders(rare)14", I guess I'm looking for more specific history,etc on the "very last" production number of 240z. Just b4 they changed in 1973. I know my car is "technically" a (73)... Is what I have more rare than the average US Datsun 240z ? Its all original Orange with back spoiler. Looks like stock Factory ??? Any specific info would be much appreciated. Ive read a lot of in general stuff. Trying to pinpoint where mine fits in with the history. Thanks -
I've been trying to source the circled part for 240z door locks to no avail for a while via craigslist, ebay, etc for months. It's the piece that clips to the lock cylinder in the door and connects to the linkage rod. The ones I have (being soft metal) are completely shot and allow the cylinder to rotate without locking to door. I really need a passenger side one more than anything and figured I'd reach out and see if anyone has one laying around that's in good shape and not too worn (or knows where to get a new one). Any and all leads are very much appreciated! Chris
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Hey Folks, Just a quick note that we're preparing the 2013 National Championship EProd car for its last season of full blown competition before it gets relegated to the Vintage ranks. Our racing starts up hard in January in Florida, so anyone down here at the time please make sure to come out. January 9 weekend at Homestead and the following weekend in Sebring. This year is special in that the SCCA has announced the National Championship Runoffs to be in Daytona. So, that's a first for this Florida boy that that particular race is within 3 days driving. We'll have a huge contingent in 2015 at Daytona including my brother who won the STL National Championship at Laguna Seca this year! Special thanks to Silvermine and John Washington with Ztrix for their help. Funny enough, I offered Arizona Z some free advertising on the car and he wasn't interested. Oh well.... All the best! Greg Ira
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John Beck tells a very familiar story about his first Z in 1971, selling it for a (cough) Volvo, and then finding another classic Z with John Coffee in 1999. A fun short video about why we do this kind of thing. Enjoy. https://vimeo.com/101361546
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The other day I was driving my datsun around and then it just died, It didn't sputter like it was out of gas and the rpm's were fine. After costing to the side of the street I tried to start it back up again, the engine cranked over but that's all. I tried it a couple more times and I got it to start once or twice but both times the rpms would waver and it responded negatively to me tapping the gas peddle, it died after 15-25 seconds. I checked the points and they were fine. The car has new spark plugs (less than a week on the car), new distributer cap/rotor/points (been on there a couple months never a problem), new ignition coil & condensor (ran for about a week with them until this), new water pump, also I drained the gas tank recently (it was clean), busted open the SU carbs they were fine (everything was in working order).
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I just love this classic Z in a Mad Max theme... Posted by Francisco Penha on Facebook.
© Francisco Penha & Mike Gholson
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Hi everyone, I just picked up my first Z, a 1973 project car that's totally disassembled but seems to be complete, and was originally Orange. I'll be bringinging the car back to original condition, with perhaps a performance modification or two. This is my second restoration, but my first import and my first Datsun, so any tips for noobs is much appreciated!
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I just picked up a '73 restoration project and am looking for some good Z books (this is my first Datsun). Does anyone have any recommendations? So far I'm looking at these: How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128022/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_11Ovvb0AAQRTR How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine: Covers L-Series Engines 4-Cylinder 1968-1978, 6-Cylinder 1970-1984 https://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128030/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_C4Ovvb1GA93K6 Essential Datsun Z 240Z to 280Zx: The Cars and Their Story 1969-83 (Essential Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1870979516/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_w5Ovvb17NTV8C Haynes Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z Manual, 1970-1978 (Haynes Repair Manuals) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0856962066/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_95Ovvb0RSM84Q
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Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
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So, one bit at a time my 1970 Z is finding its way back to respectability. Hope to have her back on the road in April. Some progress pics..... Front and rear spoilers are GONE, holes patched and sanded. Body sanded down and excessive bondo repairs replaced with mesh supported fiberglass. Hubcaps coming along (yes, I know they're the wrong ones for a 1970, but I like them). She's running solidly now, and the interior is about 80%. Tail light on the left has been polished and restored, one on right is as they came to me.
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240Z - First Look
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240Z - First Look
