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Showing results for tags '240z'.
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1972 240z Factory Service ManualFree -
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Would like to purchase a stainless steel header for my '72 240Z ... stock engine ... just wanted the longevity of stainless. Unable to find "state side" dealers that sale stainless headers. Anyone have suggestions or contacts? I looked at ZStory (nice product) but by the time I buy it and ship it it's +$700. Someone in the states needs to fill this gap with supplying stainless headers for the s30. Any leads appreciated. Thanks -
Guest posted a post in a topic in WantedI am looking for a stock survivor/restoration series 1 240Z with matching #'s, preferably grade 4 or 5, to add to my collection of Datsuns/Nissans that ranges from a 67.5 2000 Roadster to modern NISMOs. It's a missing piece in the garage. Documentation is a must and I am willing to pay for quality. I am not looking for a project car, rather one that presents as it should for grade and drives just as well. I live in Florida, but have a network of enthusiast friends/collectors across the country who can inspect/test drive on my behalf and can travel for the right car. I know it is difficult to part with these cars, but I can ensure it would be going to a good home where it will be loved by myself, sons, and generations to come. Respectfully... -
I have been having issues with my OER SK 40mm carbs. The problem is very elusive and I have not been able to find the source. I will do my best to describe the problem and I am willing to clarify if needed. I am going to refer to carb(#1) as cylinders 1 and 2. Carbs #1 and #3 are perfectly fine, it is carb #2 that is acting up. I started to sync the carbs, first by disconnecting all the linkages. I managed to balance #1 and #3 using an unisyn tool. However, #2 (cylinders 3 and 4) would be run leaner than the others. I unscrewed the idle mixture screws for #2 a few turns, and it leaned out even more resulting in popping out the carb and a nearly white spark plug. Also the #2 would draw a lot more vacuum than #1 and #3, and I unscrewed the idle speed screw for #2 and #2 still ended up drawing a lot more vacuum. #2 has enough vacuum that when I touch the unisync tool on #2 the engine will nearly die and then fuel spills out and then rpm picks up a lot. However, I got the car to idle smooth enough by tuning by ear and I would hold rpm at 2.5k and 3k and the #2 carb would cough and the exhaust would back fire, checking the plugs (cylinder 3,4) they were even whiter than at idle. Meanwhile the other plugs were a nice brown. This issue has bee driving me mad. Issues list: 1. carb #2 runs lean 2. (all linkages disconnected)(speed screw backed off 100% for #2) carb #2 still draws more vacuum that #1 and #3 3. Carb #2, touched unisycn tool the engine nearly dies, fuel drips out of throat, engine speed rises rapidly 4. #2 meaning cyl3,4 mixture screw(1 turn), nearly white plug, all others are a nice tan 5. #2 mixture screw(2 turns), completely white plug, all others are a nice tan 6. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 cough and exhaust back fire 7. rpms held at 2.5k and 3k carb #2 (plugs 3,4) are bone white, all others are a nice brown 8. no binding in the linkages, linkages move very smoothly 9. Sprayed carb cleaner on all joints and seals, no increase in rpm 10. float levels all set to the same factory settings
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The following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and DO NOT include shipping prices. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Will get you a quote once you let me know where the items are shipping to (I can usually ship pretty cheap from work). Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dAuXnCWC6Tf1iL6HcD1UY-jAl-Lmutxj?usp=sharing Interior Fresh Air Intake Vents (2x Left side and 1x Right side) $10 each Dash Defrost/Vent Set (Everything shown in the pictures) $25 Engine Bay fresh air vent (Left Side) $10 Heater Fan $15 Heater Wiring Harness $15 Heater Controls $20 for the one without knobs, $30 for the one with knobs Heater Control Panels (Both are cracked on top, one on the bottom) $25 each I should have more 240z and 280zx items posted shortly. Chris -
he following items are for 1970-1973 Datsun 240z and ship FREE in the continental US. Shipping from Tacoma, WA 98404. Click on Google Drive Share folder for Pictures. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HXipGdIWp2IHk6SfDUrX3aJfp6l_r2HR?usp=sharing Series 2 Fuse Box Cover $40 Series 2 Combo and Turn Signal Switch (Turn signal switch has some cut wires) $100 pair SOLD Fan Switches $20 each Series 2 Hazard Switch $40 Series 1 Antenna Switch $50 Series 1 Cigarette Lighter $40 Inspection Lamps $10 each Assorted Electronics $5 each
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Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley -
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It's been a while since I've posted back on the forum but I wanted to check back in and show some progress of my 11/70 240z. I bought the car about 3 years ago and have done quite a bit of work on it since. I wanted to build a mostly period correct Japanese influenced race car for street use. It's in it's final stages now and I know it might not be some of the purists cup of tea but I know some of you may enjoy it and some of the rare bits and pieces I've compiled together. A lot of time, effort, money and blood and sweat has gone into it so far. This is how the car started, a mostly stock series 1 car with dealer option seat covers and wheels, blown out struts, unreliably dangerous brakes that probably hadn't been touched since 1970 and a tired L24. Still a beauty but needed quite a bit of work. Not a bad place to begin, but over the past 3 years I've slowly transformed it into what I thought the car should have been from the start. Not all of the pictures reflect the current status of the car but I'll post some more when I can. Interior is complete with Competition Bucket seats, T3 harness bar mount with a quick release extinguisher, Watanabe Falcon Steering wheel, Skyline shift knob, new door panels, Z embroidered carpet, rally clock, and some other bits and pieces including a radio delete panel with an AFR gauge cutoff switch and some switches. Also have a competition mirror in there and some other neat bits like a works bell QR. Exterior has gotten a refresh. I chose to keep the number rounds and get rid of the other vinyl that was on there. Straightened the black line along the door as well. Went with flares, a 432 spoiler, air dam and external oil cooler. Wheels are staggered 16x9.5 255/55/r16 rear and a 16x9 225/50/r16 on T3 coilover suspension. Brakes are totally redone with the silvermine stage 3 front and silvermine stage 4 rear (toyota 4 piston and mustang gt) with classictube stainless brake lines, 280z booster and wilwood 1" with wilwood proportioning valve. (ride height is a little high to help get a jack under the air dam. I also went with the zstory exhaust with the over under 432 style exhaust. Went with fender mirrors and note the sport corner sticker and other little bits and pieces! As for the engine, I swapped in a 3.1L stroker with some datsun competition mikuni phh44's. SK intake manifold with OER linkages, Zstory exhaust, Datsun spirit heat shield, JDM big Nissan Valve cover, mishimoto radiator and a bunch of other goodies both performance and dress up. Again, pictures are a little old but give you a good idea. Car's almost done and back on the road after quite a long time, but will get some better and more updated pictures when it is. Here's a side project of mine at the moment for "the next car": Competition 44's on a FET manifold paired with a Kakimoto 3100 cover and technical garage Ti stacks with some OER linkages.
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There is this listing on eBay with 100's of new parts most in boxes It states some of the parts numbers are for 620 truck. Would most of them be usable on 240Z i.e. 3/4" vs 7/8 master cylinder
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In the process of getting a 1971 240 back on the road after a 24-year sleep, and I'm looking for shops to do a differential rebuild, tranny rebuild, engine block/head work. Massachusetts area preferred, but would travel anywhere in the northeast area. Datsun specialty/experience would be a bonus, of course. Thanks! -
Hey all, I'm once again thinking about exhaust, and I need some info from someone who has the MSA Premium flanged exhaust. I need the length of the longer straight section of the center pipe. Can anyone help me with this?
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Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.
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Hey guys, I need new coilovers at all 4 corners. Regardless of the fact that I have no idea yet which ones to get, I need a few questions answered: Where did you take your coilovers + strut tube to have them welded together? (do I need a specialty shop or what?) How much did it cost to weld all 4 coilovers? (I plan on taking them the new coilovers + disassembled part) What do I need to provide to the shop to have the job done? (which OEM parts, what kind of info do I need to provide in terms of ride height, etc.) -
Hey everybody. Im looking for an early 70s 240z. I cant find any in my area. I want one that needs work so I can put it back together the way I want to. Does anyone have a Z like this or one that is so rusted you just want to junk it. Preferably I want it to be under 300 bucks. A guy can dream. -
Who would be interested in a Bolder Tint? If you are older than 40, you remember them. Mirrored mylar with block-letter logos that stuck to the inside of your windshield, like so: After several years of looking, I have made a breakthrough. I have located and contacted the original manufacturer of the Bolder Tint brand. While the company no longer does automotive products, he does still have the original dies for the S30 windshield, and is willing to do a batch for us. These would be the real thing - true Bolder Tints by the original maker, not replicas. Here's the ground rules, and where we stand on this: 1.) This would be an exclusive to CZCC. The manufacturer wants it to be a club-related project. No direct offers would be posted on other Z sites. 2.) Minimum order is 100 units. 3.) The 100 units do not all have to be the same logo, but there would be a minimum of 20 units per logo. Logos available would probably include "240-Z" (as pictured above) and "280-Z". If we can get 20 or more commitments on either of "260-Z" and/or "DATSUN" those may be possible as well. 4.) Estimated price per unit would be $30-35 each, including shipping within the USA. Perhaps a small break for multiples to the same address, although any break may not be much, as each unit will come pre-packaged with instructions in its own mailing tube. So multiple shipping savings may be small. 5.) At prices in that range, I should be able to break even, or perhaps there may be a buck or two "profit" over my costs. If so, any amount over and above true cost and shipping will be donated to CZCC. There will not be any personal profit for the facilitator (me). The plan is this - We'll start with this poll, to try to determine demand. Don't send money yet. If the demand is such that we feel comfortable with the possibility of selling at least 100, the next step would be to accept pre-paid pre-orders. Once enough pre-orders come in that I am certain that costs would be covered, I will order the units, and then shortly begin shipping them out. If it breaks down before the parts are ordered, refunds for pre-paid orders will be given. So here's step 1 - the poll. I've set this up to allow people to vote for more than one choice, so vote for as many as apply. This poll is not a firm committment to buy. But please don't vote if you aren't fairly certain, as we need a pretty accurate count to proceed to the next step.
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Hello everyone, Lance here. I went to Japan this Summer, and am still quite excited. lol. It was a awsome trip which I didn't do much except running around finding parts and catching car shows. I brought my camra with me so there's a lot of pictures. And I think I'm going back next summer, again! First of all let me introduce myself. I'm 16, was born and raised in China. Came to the US for high school and I somehow bought a 240z on Ebay in Texas without seeing the car (I know, lucky I did get the car and I didn't know it's a L28 untill I got it). I'm in Michigan now, trying to get the car back on the road again. so far I rebuilt the engine with the classic flat top e31 high compression setup, running twin rebello bored out SU. Right now I'm trying to get the body straight again. Here's a shot of my pile of rust! Well that's another story. Anyway, trip to Japan! A shot I took from the Tokyo Sky tree. I don't know where to start so here you go! The main theme of my visit there was just get a feel of Japan and it's car culture. I obviously came from a country that doesn't have any. The whole "My car is cool" thing just started. Well, lets just put it this way. The oldest car I saw on the road is a clapped out new yorker. Being able to experience the American car scene, the Japanese culture, and the Chinese culture, lets just talk about it while I put pictures on this post. Here is a shot of the street I l stayed for 14 days. It's clean!!! Almost too clean in my opnion. The thing that amazed me is that it doesn't take much to clean it. It's the people who always kept them clean. At the start of my first day in japan, we went for the shopping center. The Ginza area. And of corse I went in the dooe as soon as I saw this. Nissan crossing is like a special dealership. They have all kinds of things from a wall full of touchscreen to some new concept. This one's got suicide doors. Knight rider might have designed this dash and steering wheel. And hey that seat looks like the one in mine! This is the GT concept 2020. I don't really have a opnion on this one. Aaaaand here is 600 horsepower and some wings. Here they have some flags of the great cars they made. Sad that none of those are Zs. We got the skyline brothers though! in case you're wondering the 1968 is the "3rd gen" written on the flag and it goes from there. Tired of seeing stuff that no one drives? Well I was and I went to Akihabara to catch some actions. And immidiatly there's a beast parking there! From the fan and the tissue box you can see that it's being driven. I like how they just randomly put a parking space there. It must be for one of those shop owners. It's weird you can see cars like this popping up randomly. In China there's not much cool cars, in US there's not much crowded areas. lol. This mx5 nailed it. Everything looks perfect. Yes I did stand in the middle of the road and took the picture. It's just too nice to miss. That's about it for the first day. I'm partly into watching animes so I spent some time running around the street looking at interesting stuff. This street is taken over by all the cute girls and stuff. But it is also a big electronic shopping street. I found a shop especially interesting. They rent shelf spaces to people who want to sell their old electronics. And the stuff they have there is just amazing. Old radios, reel to reel recorder, Sony casset recorders, phones, tube radios, it's just a treat to look at. If you ever visited there just don't carry money on you. It's like walking into a candy shop with a gift card. I'm afraid that this post might be too long, so I'm going to devide it into parts.
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Hi everyone, I've read that the tokico rear illumina struts are the same thing as the front, but just have a short piece of tubing at the bottom that lengthens them just a bit. To anyone who's installed some tokico struts and dealt with the spacer- what is the proper length of the spacer so that the struts sit at the proper height? I'm picked up two pairs of front struts and am planning on just making the small spacer myself. Has anyone done that? I'm wondering what size tubing to buy and the proper length to cut it. If anyone has any advice, please let me know. -
I have a blue 1971 240z with wide body and 350 V8, runs great and smooth with electron ignition, starter, new fans, cooling system, pumps, rebuild transmission, new gasket, new brakes and brake lines, exhaust pipe, gas pump, fuel cell lines, etc. spend over $10k in the fix last year with receipts! All it needs is maybe a new paint job! Check out the video http://youtu.be/H6N3FwkAKtwIt runs great without any issues and I drive it to work sometimes. Asking $13000 o.b.o.
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Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared with YG/BY) from the engine compartment harness to the dash harness. However, there are two red/black wires going to the body harness from the dash harness, neither of which have continuity through the dash harness. This is the first issue. Second issue is the body harness itself has been subject to some serious modification. The body harness has THREE red/black wires (one of which looks like rear defroster), but the ones of the pronged connectors do not have continuity with the wiring at the reverse lights. The only wire that has continuity with the wiring at the lights is a red/black wire that has been connected to the spade going to the pass side door switch (??). Also, the wiring going up the frame after the seat has been chopped, and been butt spliced to different colored wiring. However, at the tail end of the car, most of the wiring appears factory. I know I could simply bypass the dash harness altogether. My questions: - What is the purpose of the black wire at the body harness connector? What else is going to ground from the dash harness? It appears the body harness has its own ground point. - Is the reverse light wire going through a pronged connector on the dash harness to the body harness on Series 1 240z or is it a separate butt style connection? - What do I do with the door switch? I never checked if it actually works. I wouldnt be too bothered if it doesnt however. Thanks for your help! -
Hi all, I am posting this for a fellow member @stanleyp. He sent me a reply today when our club sent him a happy birthday message. It looks like he cannot drive the car anymore and would like to sell it to a club member. Here's some info about the car. It looks like a very well kept, low mileage, S30 in yellow (my favorite color). You can call Stanley at 315-633-2421. I should have more pics from him soon. His listed price is $19,500 OBO. One owner: Original motor with triple Weber's and K&N air filters, High performance Mallory High-Fire distributor, Coil and ignition module, New tires on original Mag rims, New high performance shocks and custom exhaust system, New fuel delivery and return system with high volume "pusher" pump. Engine compression over 180 psig in all six cylinders. Automatic transmission complete overhaul and rebuild, i.e., manually shift thru three gears or let the automatic do it for you. A great classic high power show car. Appraised by NY state appraiser at $25,000. Standard Oil Changes, Garage Kept, Accident Free, Clean, Non-Smoker. Year: 1971 Manufacturer: Datsun Model / Trim: 240Z Condition: Good Location: Kirkville, NY 13082 Mileage: 89,000 miles (143,231 kms) Doors: 2 Engine: 6 Cylinder Transmission: Automatic Exterior: Yellow Interior: Black
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1972 240z My gauges are not working properly anymore, either due to wiring or due to calibration issues. What gauges do you recommend/use? Tried some $70 set from napa but it wouldn't fit right. I saw on thezstore.com they had some gauges but they were like $400 for fuel, temp, and oil pressure. I would prefer black or white faces and that they light up. Thanks guys.
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