george71z

My 71 has begun to get cracks in the metal at the top, forward part of the doors, right where the window frame and the horizontal molding meet. Anybody else ever have this occur? What would be the best fix, short of replacing the entire door?

Got 4 stock steel rims AND I'm in Fla. Just down the Tpike and Beeline in Melbourne. Check my profile for contact info.

When I pulled my 71 dash, I used a trick from work (refurbing military aircraft). BEFORE I pulled anything, I took a Sharpie and numbered each conector, same # on each half. When I put it back in some months later, all I had to do was match up the numbers. Nobody sees it under the dash, so it all works out.

I could use a set for my 71 (with 72 seat mechanisms). Count me in.

The bolt is a 5 x 80 countersunk. Ace hardware may have something for you. Carl is absolutely correct, the sleeve is threaded.

Search no more. I have one and have sent you a reply from the classifieds.

Nice find!! Good luck with it. I have '71 and I'm just up the interstate in Melbourne. Don't get that far south too often. Check out the guys in the South Florida Z Car Club. There are a lot of 350's, but some have 240's. They run a lot of events and cruises you can go to. Nice bunch of folks. If you get your baby rung out, and cruise a bit north, look me up. Try and plan on having it ready for next years Z-fest in Orlando.

Don't know if this could be a theme, but I made my 71 as I would have done back in 71. When I started the project, I knew I couldn't afford to go back to pure stock, so it has triple Webers, XR-700 ignition, headers, bigger sway bars, KYB struts, and the 240-Z side stripes. All this was available in the 70's, so if I had the car back then, this is how I would have modded it.

Just ran across this site on a post at Z-car.com, and thought y'all might like this stuff. z-tekmfg.com All sorts of billet goodies for Z cars.(and others)

Hey, don't be ragging on the 1200 coupes. I had a new one in 72, and would love to get my hands on another one. Had my baby for 14+ yrs., never a lick of trouble. Spent more $$ to fix the rot in the strut towers than the car cost me new. Sold it when I planned to move to Fla. and the buyer drove it away. Learned all about mechanics and maintenance with that car and gained a love of Datsuns.

I managed to take some pics of the sticker. I hope they're not too large.

I just installed a 72 motor in my 71. I got the history on it from the P.O. and found it was rebuilt (head work, cam, new pistons and crank, seals, etc.) 40K miles ago. As far as I'm concerned, this motor is just broken in. I traded in an 86 Z31 last year that was never rebuilt, (to the best of my knowledge) and it had 249K on it and running strong. You have to really try and kill a Nissan engine.

I acquired a small window sticker that is 2" X 4 1/4", reading "Air Conditioned for DATSUN by Frigiking. It is blue and white. Is this something that was put on the cars that had the dealer-installed A/C installed? Anybody have any info about this? T.i.A.

At least they didn't use a B110. If only I could find another 72 1200 coupe, .... (sniff) I loved that damn car! My boss used to call it a 120-Z.

The ultimate blond gift: a DVD rewinder.

Having had A LOT of trouble with the P/W motors in my Z31, and a Ford explorer, I can speak from some exp. Each wire will operate the motor in either the up or down direction. You probably won't be able to turn the motor by hand (if it's out of the door) as they usually have worm gears in them that can't turn by hand. There is good news tho. If the motor is out of the door, without any window load on it, a fresh 9v transistor battery will run it, providing the motor is not seized. Just reverse the wires on the battery terminals to go in the opposite direction.

Only if you ask it a question it can't answer. (sorry, couldn't resist--j/k)

From the info I found, the difference will be in the vacuum advance. The D6F4-03 needs 7.9" of vacuum to start the plunger and has 7.5 deg. of advance max. @ 13.8". The D6F5-02 needs 5.9" to start the plunger, and has 9 deg. of advance max. @ 11.6" of vacuum. If my interpretation is right, the -02 has a quicker advance and advances more at less vacuum. Hope this helps.

Ben, I also have tried my hand at restoring the Z hubcaps. Maybe we need to compare notes! I had a friend sandblast the worst ones, and scotch-brited the rest. I used Plasti-Kote #1543 charcoal gray, topped with a good coat of clear Krylon. What tape did you use for masking? Scotch 471 blue in 1/4" has really good 'curvature' properties for going around the scallops.

I have always been partial to the original 'new Z' concept car. It was a design exercise that preceded the 350Z. It had the 240 quarter-windows and a very close approximation of the 'sugar-scoop' headlight buckets. The drawback was, they could only fit a 4 cylinder in it.

Just got back from a local car show (mostly street rods and muscle cars-took a Top 30 plaque with the Rice Rocket!) and met a guy with a great Z story. Seems he bought a 70 240 brand new while on leave from 'Nam. Had to go back 8 mos. later, and sold it to a buddy. Fast forward to now; he and his son are in Cali. to look at an old truck project and decide to look up the old Army buddy. He finds the guy and goes to his home. THE OLD BUDDY STILL HAS THE Z, IN PERFECT CONDITION!!!!!!! He then sells it back to the original owner! The original owner drives it back to Florida, and is ready to get back into the Z community. Made my day. I will be going to see this car in the near future, as it is local. I'll try and get pics, with the owners permission.

How is the pivot ball that the fork sits on? I had one in my old 86 ZX break off once. Soft pedal, no getting into gear, hydraulics fine. Dealer said it's not unusual to have happen.

Sort of like neons under the ricers? Whats next, huge wings on the back of flying saucers, and fart pipes? Yeah!!! UFO's are RICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!