280z1975

Well I have moved to Hamilton, Ontario and my Z is in need of some work. I am looking for a good mechanic in the area around here. There are a few to the north of Toranto, but that is kinda far and I would like someone closer. Any body in the area have a suggestion. I had a such a nice mechanic in Houston. The kind of guy who would let you borrow the lift or a tool when needed and when he wrote up the bill you never felt like you were getting ripped off. I would like to find someone else with whom I can build a similar relationship with.

Does anyone else have a sticker on the inside of the thier glove box door that reads something like "For speeds under 100mph use xx tire pressure, for speeds over 100mph use zz presure" ... To me, this is a clear sign these cars were designed to go fast, but over 150+mph, who knows. I plan to have fun with mine at a track some times, but no Fast and Furious impressions for me.

I finally got mine almost finished ... just need to finish buffing and polishing the paint, fix the brakes (went for a test ride and found a hole in the brake line!!! I nearly $^!# myself when that happened), and still have some tune up stuff to do. After that it's stereo install time and then finishing off the small stuff (that takes about a few years I suspect ) You can see photos of the progression of my project through the link in my signature.

Everyone, My future father-in-law suggested that I add capfull of some liquid graphite to my cars oil to help it run better. Now I will say that he isn't a car guy by any means and the bottle of the liquid graphite was in Dutch (which he got in Belgium when he lived there and by judging from the cans look it's possiable it's from the 50's and 60's.) I could see this being good for a break in of an engine, but for regular use, I don't know.... thought I would pose the question to you guys especially after reading the past couple of posts about zinc di-phosphate (ZDP).

Is the backfire and rough idle only at the start? Some things to look for is rust in the fuel line, so check the fuel filter. Look at the air intake and look for anything that could be loose. Try running some fuel injector cleaner through the system to help burn off stuff. My 75' FI L28 idles rough after a cold start untill I rev the engine and then back it off. It was having a few backfires when I put the car back together after a two months apart, but it stopped after a drive or two.

China is a one of the reasons for the increase in price, demand and supply being the next. It's not a matter of there not being enough raw oil (which a lot of people believe) but a matter of being able to refine it that is causing the supply to slip. Still, I am paying less than I was last year in Europe for gas when I lived there, so that makes me feel some what good. But with summer around the corner and some long distance road trips for my work ahead, I am not looking forward to the extra cost. At least my Sentra gets 30 mpg. When you think about it, for most of us who get around 18-20 mpg, it's not that bad for a perfomance sports car that is a blast to drive. I mean, most of the popular Muscle cars get what, 8mpg, and are good for a straight line. Even many modern cars don't get that many extra miles to the gallon compared to our 30+ year old Z's.

Now you opened up a can of worms ... trying to explain the concept of a 'dry county' to someone outside the US is always a fun exercise. My favorite is trying to explain why you can't buy alchol but you can still drink it.

Power output is a tricky thing, but if they can measure it via the last possiable point of power loss for a bike (the rear hub as opposed to the road to tire contact point) why not on a car? The power measurement on a bike costs about 900 bucks and I would think someone might be able to incorporate this idea into a system that can be used on a car. The system uses a sensor to measure two things, one being torque and the other is speed. Using these two measurements you can find out your instantanious power at any given moment. The sensors for the bicycle measurement use strain guages which measure the finite 'flex and bend' in a given metal surface and then from there it can determine the rest. This sort of mobile, reusable and recordable system is what I am thinking about. Something like this most people who are serious about thier cars would love to have and would be way more accurate and data enriched than a dash mounted accelerometer. It could be made for around $1,500 dollars I would suspect.

I am new to the performance car world ... I had always thought that Dyno was more a term related to testing on a big set of rollers as that was what I have always seen when people send a video of a Dyno test. Thanks for the info.

Everyone, Is there any device out there that measures the horsepower created by the wheels at the wheel, but while being mobile? I know you can test these things with a Dyno. In the bicycling world you have power measurement devices that measure your power output at the rear wheel via the hub flex and then coverting that measurement into wattage output. I don't see why the principals of this concept can't be used and applied to measuring realtime and downloadable power output (along with other factors like speed, tach speed, torque and possiably altitude) Some informatio on this measurement: http://www.analyticcycling.com/CycleOps/PowerTapFeatures.html I am sure they have this idea implimented in F1 racing, but has the technology made it down to the consumer level at this point?

Will a 240z be worth this one day? Yes, but I have a feeling most of us won't see that day ... Years and Years from now when salt and time has done it's work there will be about 20 - 40 #1 240z cars in total, of them there will be about 15 or so low vin # ones. (Carl or some one else please feel free to correct me on numbers as I am estimating by what I have read through other posts, but don't have quite the time in the Z world as others). By that time those 15 or so car WILL be worth good money, 100k + and a few the upper 100's. But I am thinking years ahead of now. While those of us who are Z nuts love our cars, the American Muscle cars have a much larger and broader appeal than the Z car. We also have to remeber, the Z car was one of the few desireable Japanese cars back in the day of the American Muscle car. I can't think of another Japanese car. (Of course I am 25 and wasn't even born). For the longest time I wanted a 69' SS/RS Camaro and still would love one. I had the chance to get a 68' RS for 5,000 when I was 17 and I kinda which I did because that car would have been worth at least double what it what I paid. I can't say that for the 96' Sentra I bought. Of course my 'profit' I made would have gone away in the cost in gas . So one day the Z car will demand a high dollar, but I don't see it happening for quite a while. The American Muscle car just has a much broader appeal and with that more check books which causes a higher demand. So our best bet is to start to 'create' a demand by bringing more people into the Z car game. The best way to do that is to get more 350z car owners to learn the heritage of thier Z car.

I bought an 84' 318 and I was super impressed with a car that was as old as my wife! The handling is great and they are tough cars. Best part mine was only 600 bucks (500 euros) but I had to part was with the car when I left Belgium. :disappoin

Ok, I would like some opinions on my ignition problem (am 95% sure this is the trouble). I have finally put my car, a 75' 280z, back together after about two months of being apart so that I could paint her and fix all the rust. At the mechanics today (my general mechanic, not a Z one) we finally finished the alternator, header, exhaust and fuel line work and went to crank up the car. It just wouldn't start. The car turns over, but the problem is that it just wasn't going that extra step. The car was running when it was taken apart, but did give me a similar problem the day before I took out the dash (and the ablity to start it with the key) but I didn't think anything of it at the time. We checked fuel line, it's getting fuel ... sprayed ethonol in the manifold, nada ... alternator is a brand new Z specialites 105 amp ... So we checked the spark plugs, when it's turned over you get only ONE spark and then nada. If you try to crank it over again it will get another spark then nada. I then tried a spare Ingition module I had for my 75' and still the same problem. My mechanic is a great guy, but the Z isn't his time period, so I will bring it to a Z mechanic tomorrow, but would like some opinions on what could be wrong so I can go with the advice of people who have had similar problems. My best guess, it's either the Dizzy or the Coil. I have a spare Dizzy but no extra coil, so I hope it's the Dizzy

Well said .... two of my favorite quotes "It matters not whether you win or lose; what matters is whether I win or lose." "Adapt, Improvise, Overcome"

I don't like posting a classified in the regular part of the club, but I would like to see these Z car things find a new home rather than end up gone. See respective photos below: 1) A good condition, no cracks or problems Dash Cap. I upgraded to a full cap, so this is just taking up space. $40 shipped via USPS Priority Mail. 2) How to Restore a Z Car by Wick Humble and Hanes Repair manual. Both were free to me with a Z purchace, but I have both of them. They are WELL USED, but only $5.50 for both to cover shipping. 3) Factory Service Manual for a 75' 280Z dealing with the engine components only. It's page copies put into a binder. I don't know if it's complete (I already had the FSM) $7.00 to cover shipping 4) Slyivan H4 headlights from my 280z. Both work, I just upgraded to newer ones, $20 shipped. 5) New H4 high power headlights. I got these off Ebay, but didn't read the fine print where they were not street legal. My loss is your gain, $20.00 shipped. I am moving later this week so I need payment by Tuesday evening to Paypal at the latest. I just don't want to see these parts go to waste and have them find a new home. My e-mail is dbcyclist@yahoo.com for any questions or paypal. Once again, sorry for the sale in the general items section, I just wasn't sure if they would find thier way to a good home before I left in the classifieds.

Ok, at 350 bucks (or even $150) I can make one like that for about 25 bucks in material if I had a decent MIG welder. Maybe once I get settled after my move I will try my hand at making one. I like the look, and have thought about trying out something similar in design once I have my car together.

All the points you make are quite valid. At top level I complete at in cycling I look for any way to obtain a better power. But the point Arne and I are making is that for people who aren't at the top (in cycling you start off at a level 5 in the US, I can't really say what I could equivalent it to for racing of Z's) it would make no sense for them to start off with a top end bike or the best of the best. I suspect for a general perspective of the Z members here 95% of us wouldn't notice or 'need' the change a head would have. For us it would be better placed. BTW, a common practice in cycling to reap the benefits of your power is efficiently, or dropping weight. It's just my outside view. but if someone who is a weekend racer and wants the benefit of extra power but can't afford I would suggest taking out EVERYTHING (spare tire, passenger seat, etc.) that you don't need. That would make the car run much better and faster. Ok, back to the point we both agree. If you RACE (serious competition or job) , get all the extra horsepower you can Still for me a weekender (non-serious completion or fun weekend track racer) would be better off just learning to race. If i ever get into racing cars (who knows, maybe after my cycling career) I wouldn't race my Z, but rather build up another Z or 'race' only car. Cause when I do things, it's never to the half and half perspective .

In my life outside of my Z car I compete as a Professinal cyclist where we measure our horsepower in the much small measurement of power, Watts (I put our a MAX instanatinous effort of roughtly 1.5HP when I sprint , but at the pro level it's not that bad. Street racing and autocross, like cycling, there is a huge degree that can be overcome at the lower levels of competiton through just technic and experince. Where as at the top level just a differeance of as little as .2% can be what wins you an even. I have seen shorter timed evens be lost by .001 of a second! So as I advise the youngsters that get into the sport, all the flash equipment in the world won't make the differance between winning and loosing. For most people a weekend of driving school or practice will make the differance a weekend of upgrading a head on the engine will make and won't cost them as much in the end. If the driving school won't make you any "beter" and the extra HP is what is keeping you from making the cut at your local autocross event then by all means go for the upgrade. BTW, I have about DOUBLE invested in my racing bicycle, not including my three other bicycles, than I do in my Z :nervous: , but then again my bike is my job and my Z is for pleasure. So Arne, your post wasn't that much in vain, it's just up to everyone to decide if that extra money is worth the benifit. My two cents ...

Thanks for the info Arne ... when I get around to looking for a good set of wheels for my Z I will be sending you a PM. Have you ever thought about doing a short article for the "Articles from our members" on wheels that work for Z cars and what to look for? Thanks for the help.

Man, why oh why did you post these ... I am already over budget on my Z project and now look at what you have tempted me with! :stupid: Those are some really nice wheels and the right 15" size I am looking to put on. Damn they would look good against the black color of my car. Are these still available or would I have to wait for another e-bay auction to find a set similiar to these once I have saved up for my suspension, steering and wheel upgrades?

Or you can do what I am doing, moding on 240 or early 260 style bumpers onto my 280z. I may only go with the front one as I don't think the rear bumper looks that our of place on the rear, but the front one really doesn't look right IMHO. Still, good luck with the search.

The following is how to build a tow bar for your Z and save yourself the cost of paying someone to tow yours around. I did this on my 280z. I assume a 240z will be similar, but may require some different steps, none the less, it’s all about the same. In the words of Clint Eastwood in Heartbreak Ridge, “Improvise, Adapt, Overcome”. Total cost is about 125 dollars. This ‘fix’ assumes you have both A) another vehicle to tow a car with and a rolling chassis for this to work. List of materials you will need include: - 3 inch angle iron, 8 feet of the stuff, I used 3/8 inch - Possibly an angle grinder - A level - A drill and a good set of high strength drill bits - One set of tow lights - On universal tow bracket - Access to a welder - About two hours or so build time You will first need to remove the front bumper from the car and then the bumper mounts of the car. You will also need to take off the horns at this time. There should be enough room not for you to be able to insert the angle iron where the old bumper mounts were. I made my bumper mounts 18” long, which seemed just right to me, you can make them a little longer or shorter if you like. I had the metal shop where I bought the angle iron cut it for me so I didn’t have to use an angle grinder. I then clamped each of the 18” pieces of angle iron in place so that they were level. I attached these with the lower of two of the three mounting holes. Since at the time I did this I had the cars fenders off I was able to access the from the other side to drill a small marking hole. I then took off each piece of angle iron and drilled the holes progressively larger till they were just a bit bigger than the mounting bolts. Replace the angle iron not and secure them to the chassis of the car. Next place the last piece of angle iron over the top of the two sticking out of the car. I had mine run 6 inches wide on each side of the angle iron. Now you will need to tack weld the bar in place once you have aligned everything in place. Once you are satisfied with how things are fitted (make sure that from the inside the angle iron butts up close to the front piece of angle iron so you can easily weld it all up.) After your tack welds, weld the top of the angle iron to each other and then remove the tow bar from the car. You now want to weld up EVERY side where the angle iron meets up. You can do this while it is on the car, but it can be a bit complicated. Now reattach the tow bar to the car (it will be a tight fit!) so ease it in there. I used a jack to keep the front end from moving down when I was reattaching the whole deal. Next mount the tow brackets from your universal tow bar according to their instructions. I placed mine where the bolts ran to both sides of where the frame mounted angle iron parts meet up with each other. The only problem I have run into is the fact the horns don’t mount back in place with the 3” angle iron. You can cut out just a little bit of the angle iron to allow them to fit but I didn’t because I wanted to keep as much strength as possible in the tow bar. Remember that you will need to have a set of tow lights when towing around your car and make sure to meet all local and state regulations, safety chains are almost always required. Your car also needs to be in neutral and make sure it STAYS in neutral while driving the car so you don’t screw up the transmission. And always, the emergency brake must be released and the key in the ignition so that the wheel doesn’t lock up. PLEASE KEEP SAFETY IN MIND. Now for the legal, THIS IS ONLY A REFERANCE GUIDE. I am doing this so that everyone out there can tow their car cheaper and easier if they choose. If you can’t do this task properly then don’t! This tow bar is ultimately attached with four bolts to your Z car and it’s up to you if you think this is enough. Now that that is done with the total cost involved for me was: 10 feet of angle iron … 20 bucks Magnetic Tow lights … 25 plus shipping (Harbor Freight) http://www.harborfreight.com/ Universal Tow Bar … 75ish (shipping included) most places, use Froogle and the search of “Universal Tow Bar” Welding rods … 5 bucks Total cost of around 125 bucks. I was able to borrow a welder, so that saved me a bit of money, and the angle grinder I already had. You can use the universal tow bar on other vehicles too. I did this same principal on my brothers jeep when I towed it cross country. So far I have towed my Z around on 6 trips and at 50 bucks a tow that is quite a bit of savings. Also I am moving and for a front wheel tow dolly from U-haul iis 125 bucks or 250 for a car trailer. That trip alone will pay for this tow bar. So I have been able to save a good bit of money. If I come up with a better mounting solution (or someone can suggest one) that is more semi-permanent I will post something about that. I hope this has been helpful.

There is also a white ZX just north of Hwy 6 and Clay road, on the west side of Houston. It's 3 grand and in need of some TLC. I wouldn't pay a dime over 1500 for it. They had the hood open and the engine reaked of cheap spray on quick wax, you know, to show how clean the engine is . Anyways, I still have my 75 to look after and get on the road before I go looking at other cars. Besides, my next one will be a 240, but that is a LONG time away.

AMC has some good advice. I have a 75' 280z and don't feel that it is any less cool than a 240 (well untill I put on those stupid 5mph federal safety bumpers ). I got my Z for free and to date have spent just under 3,000 on the car. Mine had almost NO rust. Only a rusty frame rail and some light floor pan rust. I didn't go crazy with the car, but did do things right. Also all the work was done myself less the new clutch and fuel injectors. Have you considered a 280z, they are easier to maintain, much more available, better daily drivers for the most part, and the best part for someone like yourself, much less $$$. I would get a 280z that is in better shape and then have it road worthy and enjoy it, spend the next couple of years learning about Z cars and when you are more settled and can take on a full restoration go out and find a nice California or Arizona (or even Texas) Z car and go to town on it restoration wise. It will seem a WHOLE lot less of a daunting task after owning the other Z car. I hope all this advice helps.

Ok, I finally got around to pulling the photos off my digital camera. The photos I took are with the car not fully together, but show the paint pretty well. There are some spots that aren't perfect, but that is ok, as the paint has already been chipped in a some spots from putting the car back together. It's going to be a daily driver, so the paint won't stay perfect. Anyways, I have enough left over that I can repaint it in two years after I have enjoyed it and had some chips and scratches. Plus I don't have to take off all the body panels either the next time! The paint color is Black Metallic from the special edition 78 model. I really like it and am very glad I went with it. you can see the small dents and dings, but it's not nearly as bad as people said it would be. I also went with a painting the grill (not installed), the horns, and the back tailight covers (installed and visiable in the second photo) in while. I really like how this gives the car something extra and doesn't make the rear end blend all together had I left it matte black as it was stock.