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Just searched and found this thread. Question - is the 280Z rim the same size as the '72-'73 240Z rim? I know in '71 the stock rim was slightly smaller width-wise. I have the opportunity to get some stock rims - they are off a '77, but I want to be sure the rims are the right size for my '72.

+1 - don't by a 240Z if you're gonna mod it. The 260Z still retains the 240Z aesthetics, but could actually benefit from the swap.

I thought I had seen this one before, so that makes sense. Given it's specific focus, I can understand why a car like this would always be for sale at the right price. Unfortunately, that's not my price - I can't afford it!

Not sure if this was posted, or if this was sold recently, but Canepa Design has this car for sale: http://www.canepa.com/inventory/racecar/Datsun%20240Z%20GTU/index.html The description has some interesting comments in it - not sure how true they are (e.g., first chassis imported to US in 1970). At the bottom of the description is the car's history - it's got quite a heritage. Canpea also have one of the last Nissan GTP ZX cars, I think it's the NPT-91. Man, I'd love to have that!

Wow! Lots of swastika "hate" I wouldn't own a ZXT without them, I absolutely love those! Interesting, I had planned to put them on my 240Z to begin with, but couldn't find them. Once I decided not to go the modded route, I am having as much trouble trying to find the original Z rim (I have the hubcaps)!!

These rims look great as is - only better option IMHO is the 280ZX turbo rim (sometimes referred to as the "swastika" rim).

Yes, that's a fair price. Find out how many miles and/or if everything is proper (e.g., not seized). I'd doubt there's anything major given that the bottom-end of an L motor is about bulletproof, and the head is easy to have refreshed.

Well said! I have been looking at Ferraris as a purchase for most of my adult life. I have tracked prices, just never jumped in as they are temperamental beasts (as noted). I am less than 5'10" and I have driven a few, so I know what to expect. The 308/328 is (relatively) easy to work on, and not unlike the Z car, there are many "Honda" replacement parts I am more seriously investigating it, but it would be a lot easier if I could keep my Z. I haven't decided what to do yet, but as I hit 40 last year, it's been weighing on me. Enigma - that pic of your Z is fantastic, looks much better than it does in your avatar!

That '72 in 918 is sweet! I always liked that color, perhaps it's my age showing

+1 - It's been my lifelong dream to own a Ferrari - specifically the 308/328 cars of my youth. If I were ever to make that purchase, it's now - which means the 240Z would likely have to go. And yet, I struggle with this sooo much it's unbelievable...I am potentially passing on a lifelong DREAM because I love the Z that much!

No one has the '72 sticker? One other question - what sort of paper stock was used originally? Was it the thinner dot-matrix style or is it like normal typewriter paper?

Yes, but we've got the cheapest gas nationwide . When I take my Z in, the attendant always lets me gas it up.

So then that wasn't a '72 sticker? Does someone have a clear copy of the '72?

No dice - I must be at least the 3rd owner, and I assume at least the 4th owner. I have no original docs

I am in Monmouth County, not terribly far from Barnegat. Probably could have checked on it, but as I mentioned, looked like a bomb anyway. Not sure what they are looking for, but here's a nice one in PA: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-Sharp-1972-240Z-one-owner-before-restoration_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ170301783374QQsspagenameZRSSQ3aBQ3aSRCHQ3aUSQ3a101

Chris W. You have a better scan of the '72 window sticker? It shows slightly blurry on my PC. Arne's comes in nice and clear, but as I have a '72, it's cheating if I used it

Old thread, but referred here from the thread on the dealer sticker. This would be cool if we could track where our cars were sold. I know Nissan doesn't have that info, but I was able to get this from Jaguar for my E-Type (heritage certificate)...oh well

Keep it original. I don't agree with Marty on the hubcaps - they're awesome. Please restore / refresh / retain this car as close to original as possible. I realize the Z car isn't a Ferrari, but you rarely see any of those classics modified. Typically, if they are, it's looked upon negatively. Now that the Z is becoming more of a recognized classic, a great starting base like the car you have would be perfect for preservation!

Well, I have original covers on mine (although they aren't original to the car, I purchased them from another '72 owner) and they were moldy smelling. I took them off, washed the foam, the covers, the seat frames - everything. Let it all sun dry, then reinstalled them - no issue. You could argue that my seat foam, being old and worn, may have made the job simpler and less stressful on the original covers. Let me assure you I washed these things rigorously, and they had nary a scratch. I think your originals would be fine if you replace the foam. That's my plan of action, so if I beat you to the punch, I'll let you know how it goes.

I may have some extra spacers - have to check as I need 4 for my passenger seat. Pretty sure I have at least 8, if you want them. My seat foams are like pails too, the gap is so big my back aches when I drive for extended distances!

I ripped mine out and canned it, too. It was so awful looking that I prefer the holes in the center console (from the AC control panel screws) over the unit.

Look very closely at madkaw's pics and you can see the "eyebrow". It the chamfered edge of the piston bores to allow valve clearance. Since he mentioned the sputtering starts at around 4,000 rpm, I wonder if the valves are closing prematurely given the higher rpms (assuming they aren't already damaged)?

Search the forum for eyebrowing - I actually thought of doing the same as you, which is how I came across it. Basically, the N42 has larger valves than the E31/E88 of the 240Z. Since the N42 was introduced on the larger bore 2.8L of the 280Z, there's no interference with the block when the valves open for the exhaust stroke. If you are running a smaller bore 2.4L (which sounds like you are), the valve will make contact with the block on the exhaust stroke of the cycle, which can cause damage. Can't say this is the primary cause of your problem, but I'll bet it's contributing to it.

Not sure if you mentioned this - but IIRC, you need to eyebrow the cylinders on a 240Z block if you put on the N42 head (larger valves). I don't know if NOT eyebrowing it will cause catastrophic damage, but you were asking about valve clearance - could that be a possible cause? Did you eyebrow the cylinders?

I just went through this - thankfully, I found the needed connectors still residing, but one or two wires I had to splice. It's not the best option, but if you have trouble finding what you need, it's an option.