rtaylor

Arne, do you think that a silver paint would work on the interior spaces of the mesh and not look too tacky? I gave up on trying to clean mine. That was like work!

Hey Arne, Nice choice! Check my other AP Center cap thread if you need to locate a vendor for the caps. He also has the lugs and washers.

George, I will take a hard look at the piaa lights. From what I have been seeing on the net, you are absolutely correct about their cost. I don't like the round ones, but it seems that they do make a rectangular set as well. I will research these lights further, and i do appreciate your endorsement. That's one of the things I really enjoy about this club, that is being able to get feed back from others that have traversed the path ahead of me. Thanks.

George, thanks for the RX and info. I did not make it there yesterday, I forgot that I had a date with Chuck E Cheese. I'll look into the PIIA lights. I really have no need to rush into the purchase as I am waiting on my carbs to come back from ZTherapy.

Great, that is tons of help. I'll install the relay to make sure that I don't fry the harness. I am headed over to MSA this afternoon and will pick up my lights. Thanks. Once they are installed I'll let everyone know how it went.

Thanks for the write-up Enrique. Do you think the driving lights sold by MSA would pull too much of a draw on the existant wiring harness? The state they lights are 55w. Thanks

That great info Enrique. The reason I ask is that the PO had the old huge round fog lamps connected to a toggle switch that was placed in the dash indent. However, the power lines were run to them via wires that had been pulled up to the lamps. With this info, I can now get rid of the aftermarket wiring and use the factory wiring. Thanks!

What I plan on doing to rectify this problem is cutting out the offending section on the bottom of the air cleaner with a die grinder. That will allow the use of the original air cleaner without having to buy aftermarket air cleaners and having to deal with the plumbing issues that arise with the use of them. Of course, you could always purchase a rotary style air compressor which is smaller than the old York AC. Stephen would be able to point you to the pros and cons of this approach. It has been discussed numerous times in the forums. I have the same setup as jmark's if you look at the link Arne posted above.

So, the factory wiring behind the indent is to be used for fog lamps. Where does the wiring terminate? Are they terminated by the headlight wiring left/right in front of the radiator support? I have bullet connectors up there that are not being used.

Hi Stephen. My car has 24,000 original miles on it. When I pulled the fuel pump last month the bottom bolt was plated with the zinc chromate finish. The pump had never been replaced according to my Father-in-Law who purchased the car new.

My 71 has two studs on top and a bolt on the bottom, all original.

Is your AC a York mounted on the drivers side? The front of my air cleaner has been smashed on the bottom of the front air intake. It barely clears the compressor. I think that over time, or the PO/dealer did this to make some clearance. By looking at the fit, it would have been darrn near impossible to fit without having to alter the bottom of the compressor.

Here's a picture of the emissions decal that is still on my car. This is a original California car, so I don't know if this decal was placed on cars that were delivered in other states.

That's what I'll pick up this weekend, along with another soldering iron to do the job properly.

That's what I thought Arne. Now that the carbs are off to ZTherapy, I have some time before they come back. I'll pull the fuse block this weekend. And thanks for the pictures John. That was a nice fix for a problem prone piecs of hardware. I just may follow your lead.

Not quite, but something alarming happened yesterday. Yesterday was a beautiful day, so I deceided to push my car out of the garage into the driveway so I could have some natural sunlight to work on it. I was pulling the carbs so I could send them up to Bruce Palmer. Anyway, I had to turn the switch to unlock the steering wheel. I forgot to turn the switch off. I pulled the carbs and linkage. About 30 minutes later, I noticed an acidic smell coming from the interior. I stuck my head in, found the switch on, turned it off. No smoke however. I grabbed the fuse cover, yanked it off and put my hand on the fuse block. HOT HOT HOT. After it cooled off, I turned the engine over briefly to ensure it was geeting power, radio works, lights work, wipers work, fan works. Here's the dumb question, should I be worried? I have done no electrical work to this car absent replacing the fusible link, BTW it was not hot. Should I pull the fuse block and start checking wires?

The guy that had the appliance center caps raised his price to $300. Way too crazy for me. As Ron said in an earlier post, he used Eagle center caps. I finally found some at Masseys in Oklahoma, (405) 239-2010. $39 plus $10 for shipping. They also had the correct lug nuts with a .55" long shaft @ $1.25 each. Washers were a quarter. So this is what my wheels look like now. Not too bad, me thinks

Hey Arne, great find. The sun roof doesn't look bad. If the car didn't have that you would have had absoluitely the perfect find. The motor looks great. You should not have to spend much money there. I'll miss your avatar with the old yellow Z, I'm kinda partial to those...Good luck

I live in Phillips Ranch, and that is not too far away. Hey ChinoZ, The 76 station here in the ranch has 100 octane fuel as well. It is on the Loop. That is alot closer than having to drive to the fairgrounds or Covina. Been here about 15 years now, Was a southbay boy before that.

I was trying to start my Z on Saturday, no luck. So I looked under the dash and found a red wire with a spade connector disconnected. I pulled the bottom steering column cover and found the wire that it plugged into. It appears that the wire goes to the very front of the switch. Is this wire for a buzzer or something? The red wire was all by itself, not cinched or taped to the other bundles of wires. I connected it, but still no start. I have spark, so I think it is in the fuel system somewhere. Ran out of time, but will start fuel system diagnosis this week. Thanks for any input.

You don't have to have a wall switch. Lowes sells a remote control unit that gets wired to the fan and hides inside the top cover. Just run hot wires to the box in the ceiling, wire in the remote control receiver, and then you control the fan with the remote control. The remote control also comes with a wall mountable bracket to hold the remote control. You have to temporarily wire the fan first to ensure that the fan is switched on to the highest possible fan speed, then leave it on that setting. Then turn the power off with the fan at the highest setting, disconnect the wires, wire in the remote sender, turn the power back on and voila...

It is an auto John. Got more info on the car last night. Radiator has also been rodded and cored. Seat material is not in good shape, as it was cloth and it is 33 years old, But there are some nifty Pepboy seat covers in it!!! I should have picture this weekend.

I know that this is a Z car website, but thought that I would post here, maybe one of our members is interested. My father-in-law has a 73 610 wagon with 78,000 miles. In great shape. He is asking me to help him sell it. I'm in Pomona, he is in Carmichael. I am trying to get some pictures now. but with him being technologically impared and the distance between us, it will take some effort. I'll probably have him buy a disposable camera, take pictures, mail me the pictures and then I will scan the images. The car is in the shop geting a tune up now. It has new tires,brakes,wires, etc. I though I would post here before I put it on ebay. Thanks

OK I retrieved the old memory. The strut was purchased from Rockauto.com. description: AC DELCO PART 510702 Strut, L/Gate,Silver,Air Lift (#88985428) Price: $20.99 which is one heck of alot better than MSA proce of $140. It comes with the mounting studs.