rtaylor

Hi Enrique. It is the AM only with the antenna switch on the right

I figured that I would go ahead and buy an original radio for the Z. Found a nice AM on ebay a few weeks ago and bought it. The box arrived on Monday and when I opened it with great expectations, they were dashed upon the rocks. The journey took its toll. The face plate was broken in two places. The radio was not packed as it should have been. I submitted a claim to DHL but haven't heard back from them yet. Now I have a radio but no face plate.:disappoin ANybody have an extra faceplate they wish to part with?

Has anybody experience with the Koni red inserts? The price on ebay seems reasonable ($150 per pair). If I understand this correctly, the Koni inserts will not raise the standard height of the vehicle. And if you have, how is the ride and what setting did you use? As Arne mentioned and from my review of the Koni instalation guide, the shocks need to be adjusted prior to installation.

I was able to use the tiny vise grips to get mine out. As someone else said, you can use a dremel tool if that doesn't work with a flex shaft on it to cut a slot, then use a flat bit on a small 1/4" ratchet which will give you enough room to put pressure on the head of the ratchet while turning it.

Your ride sure looks sweet Mark. The new height of the car looks perfect.

Remove the valve. Much easier.

I just did mine a few months ago. There is enough room and as Stephan says it is a tight fit. I had to cut the upper clamp off with a Dremel mototool though, as the head of the screw securing the oem clamp faced up, and I could not get to it. Also, the philip head screws that secure the heater valve may strip if you don't get the right amount of pressure. One of mine did. I replaced those screws with ss allenhead bolts obtained from my local ACE and it sure made the install easier.

Thanks for the responses guys. The head is off, so there is no way to run air for a leakdown test. I will wait for a report from the shop regarding the condition of the valves when they get to it. While its there, all brass valve guides will be replaced with steel guides. Arne, I agree with you on the wet/dry indication. If it is a stuck ring, the possibility is there that it wil get unstuck. I don't know how likely that is. But solvent was sprayed in the hole. I looked inside cylinder 5 and there is no scarring of the cylinder walls. But, on a side note, the tops of all of the pistons are really , really carbonized. Don't know how this could happen. It seems to me if the car was running rich that the extra gas would wash out the carbon. If lean, then no carbon would form. Is carbon deposited perhaps from leaky valves allowing oil to flow down into the chamber, or does it come from being pushed past the rings through oil pressure? The owner of the shop, btw, thanks Stephan for the referral to Elvin at Z-Car Specialities in Upland. Seems to be quite knowledgable and honest. Quite a collection of Zs he has in his yard that no one has picked up. Its hard to deal with an unknown qualtity such as a new mechanic who recommends needed (or un-needed as the case may be) repairs. I am always leery in case the plan of action is just a way for the mechanic to supplement his income...

Hi ya'll: Prior to pulling the head on my motor due to a pinched head gasket from when I replaced the front cover due to a broken water pump bolt, where this all started, a compression test was taken. 175 across the board except for #5 which was 110 dry, 125 wet. Do I need to yank the motor and pull the #5 piston? Or do I just do a head job? The shop is telling me they need to pull the motor and check the rings on #5. 25,000 original miles on the motor. What to do? Thanks for the advice.

John My switch is located directly to the right of the passenger side radio knob, build date 2/71.

I pulled my cover without removing the differential. All I did was remove the mustache bar and then I was able to gain access to the cover plate to replace the gasket. 71 240

Mine is exactly the same as Arne's. MSA carries the grommet.

And for your reference: CALIFORNIA VEHICLE CODE SECTION 25950-25952 25950. This section applies to the color of lamps and to any reflector exhibiting or reflecting perceptible light of 0.05 candela or more per foot-candle of incident illumination. Unless provided otherwise, the color of lamps and reflectors upon a vehicle shall be as follows: (a) The emitted light from all lamps and the reflected light from all reflectors, visible from in front of a vehicle, shall be white or yellow, except as follows: (1) Rear side marker lamps required by Section 25100 may show red to the front. (2) The color of foglamps described in Section 24403 may be in the color spectrum from white to yellow.

And be careful buying a replacement mast from Ebay. I bought one that was advertised to fit a 240z: the mast is smaller in diameter and the line was not round but a corrugated flat track, sort of like a M60 tank tread (only smaller). Now it is sitting in my unwanted parts box.

Lowe's or Home Depot carries the heavy line. I saw it the other day while in Home Depot. The heavy stuff is a hair smaller than the original plastic antenna line though.

Antenna has now been spoken for folks.

I bought one from AntennaX with the plastic body that they said fit the 240z and was semi-automatic. It wasn't. It came with a switch that was wired to fool the antenna, as Enrique explained how to do in another thread. If anybody wants it they can have it, just send me a pm and pay for postage. I think I'll give cleaning the switch a shot.

Hi all. When I use the original rocker antenna switch I must manually return it to the center position. Is this due to age? When new, did the switch return to center detent when released? I found a Harada Antenna with the metal lower casing on Ebay, not the plastic kind. Harada Model Number MO-10 NIB NOS AM/FM. It is a semi-automatic. The body of this antenna is almost identical to the original antenna. The mast was slimer and it did not come with the same type of bezels, the bezel was flat, but oh well. Same mounting screw on the bottom though. Tried to bid on an original on ebay but the seller had already sold it. Prices are getting steep for used antennas.

How about Preventitive Maintenance?

Moonpup, so that is what the "chop" is for. The date stamp on mine is nearly invisible, but still has the letters like yours on the bottom "EP".

I just looked in to my tool compartment for the first time last night. To my amazement, the tool bag was still in a sealed clear plastic bag. Also contained in the bag was a list from Nissan detailing the contents. I scanned the bag with the plastic on it so the attached file is not entirely clear, but you all will be able to see what was listed on it. There also appears to be, for lack of a better word, a chop on the lower right hand corner. The paper measures 7" by 5". I haven't decieded whether or not I will break the bag open in order to make a pristine copy for anybody that wants one. I don't know if this subject has been addressed previously, but if so, sorry for the duplicate posting. Tool Bag list.pdf

If I may hijack a question. If I only install KYB struts w/o putting on new springs, will that also increase the front end height?

Arne, I have stenciling still plainly visible on mine. You want pictures?