preith

Any older pics I post are found elsewhere on the web. There are some of Logan & Frank in the "vintage pics" thread, but I don't know what year: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33512

Agreed, but IMO it's ultimately about being in the right place at the right time in regards to rules and allowed preparation, or modifications. I feel one poster on the prod board hit the nail on the head "the SCCA classified the car figuring it would never be developed to it's full potential", or perhaps didn't realize it at the time. Thanks for sharing, wild that you were there, I wish I was. I've heard similar stories from some of the Blackhawk Farms old-timers as well.

Here are a few more photos Jim Fitzgerald is helping Fred Baker Jaguar E-type down the esses on the first lap. Jim was later disqualified for helping Fred.

This was posted on the prodracing forum. Even though it's about a Jaguar, it is Z-car related and perhaps you guys might find it interesting. Nissan of course dominated the SCCA CP championships through the 70's but 1980 was the first that got away from them. The article is a bit biased, but assuming the info is true, I found the "DH" claim to be appalling. Here's the original URL: http://www.jtc-nj.com/jagcorner/GTJNo19.html

Good question. I looked at the GCR, the 240 is listed as prep level 2 and this may fall under the final drive section, it states: o.5 - Axle shafts, bearings, bearing carriers, hubs and universal joints/CV joints are unrestricted. With that said, knowing the SCCA, it wouldn't surprise me if they were declared illegal...

I'd suggest a pair of billet 4340 axles from Ross @ Modern Motorsports, done up in 280Z dimensions, first class part!

The Quaife crossed my mind too but I'm with you, they're pretty much bullet proof. You could remove it and send to Quaife for inspection, but I'd think it would go open, not locked, if worn and of course not cause a push. I toasted a diff pretty good with the Quaife installed and it came out of the carnage completely intact. I'd think any loose ball joints or tie rods would jump out at you. A fellow club member has Wayne's old ITS Z (mountain motorsports) and I do recall him saying Wayne mentioned the rear uprights (the 1/8" plates) had a tendency to crack. The swaybar mount captured nuts pulling out of the frame rails is a common problem too. Aside from that, I'm at a loss. Good luck and please keep us posted.

Very weird! My immediate thought is the corner weights are off. Have you scaled it? I have heard of coil over spring perches loosening (and moving) on a few occasions, but I'm sure you would have found that. I find it very hard to beleive a suspension spring yielded but just throwing it out there... Maybe it's something as simple as a defective tire, perhaps try another set of skins? I assume you haven't made any changes to the car since the last race, and no off course excursions either? Speaking from experience, I did make changes which affected weight bias and mistakenly did not scale the car as well... sure enough it went loose on left turns. On a side note, you're running a Quaife without cooler? That baby must get toasty! Maybe it's a bad thing, ignorance is bliss, but I finally installed a temp gauge on mine (R200 w/Quaife) last season. I was in the last race session of the day (plenty cooled) and it still hit 290 with Amsoil severe gear racing lube too. A diff cooler went on after that, but I hear it's not legal in ITS.

That's true too, but I was under the assumption the input shaft would be installed with it's "mate" on the countershaft, this gear is removable. That being the case, it would install just fine but again, bad ratios.

Even if you had an input shaft from a later "b" 4 speed I would suggest against it. It would work from a fitment standpoint, but the gear counts on the 80-83 trans are different for the 1-2-3 gears. In other words the end result would be weird, unfavorable, ratios. I spent a great deal of time counting gears, hoping for something good, but unfortunately that's not the case. It would work wonderfully on the earlier 77-79 trans though as they use the same gearsets for 1-4. Also, a fun tidbit of info. The input shaft is also 4th, but 4th really isn't a gear as when engaged, the input & output shafts are locked together forming a solid shaft straight through (1:1 ratio) and all the other gears are simply "freewheeling", along for the ride.

Check your organization's GCR. Most sanctioning bodies have a minimum size requirement on the numbers themselves and many don't allow magnetic.

Congrats on the purchase, best of luck. What transmission is in the car?

I'm with you, after the last retaliatory post in regards to mine, just biting my lip, I'm done!

The SVRA & HSR definitely do not enforce any kind of period paint schemes, that's entirely at the owner's discretion. Most vintage groups are concerned with the preparation level and period correctness on a mechanical level and frown on newer technology, remote reservoir shocks, etc. As for the stickers, it's rare to hear a sanctioning body orders the "other" group removed, or taped over, but it does happen. Also, period correctness can be a bit vague as most race cars were in a constant state of flux through their lives and just about anything could be be considered "correct" depending on the year referenced. In this case the car is more representative of it's life at a later date, probably sometime in the 80's. Your earlier statement of the car requiring a previous race history is incorrect as well. Depending on the sanctioning body and group within it's not always a prerequisite. I hope this doesn't come across as an attack in any way, just "keepin' it real".

I rememberd seeing it pictured on Dave's (arizonazcar) website, revisted it: The owner is listed as Larry Mahanor as well. I believe he's been running that car for a number of years now and I don't think he's a member here.

It doesn't look like anyone touched on the temperature of the plug. In your case with that much compression you'll be better off with something a bit cooler, most likely a BR7ES or BR8ES. I run the 8 with 11.9:1, .560lift cam, and an Electromotive ignition. As stated in another post, "R" stands for resistor. The Electromotive ignition actually requires more resistance than a traditional setup, including higher resistance plug wires than the "ultra-low" stuff marketed nowadays, 1-2K ohms per foor IIRC.

The same thought of drilling rod journals crossed my mind after seeing just about EVERY aftermarket 'upgrade' 4340 v8 crank sold by the typical producers (scat, crower, etc) had this. I wouldn't attempt it with an OEM crank but if going with a custom one-off one before heat treating... I see you asked the same question on HybridZ. I was not surprised by the advice against it, but was surprised nobody mentioned this is a quite common practice in the v8 crowd. Granted, it's comparing apples to oranges in the crank department, but I'd think the harmonics would be worse with the v8's and they're getting away with it.

Great to hear you own the Leitzinger 280z, but unfortunately I don't own any of those photos, they're all compliments of Greyghost (aka Steve Gunderson). I beleive most are scans from his collection. You could try PM'ing him. Or anyone with a decent printer and good paper could simply print the digitial file for you, though the files aren't very large, I'm not sure how well they'd turn out.

With your current setup I don't see how it would be possible. This will probably open a can of worms, but IMO a return line should not be used with a inlet style pressure regulator but rather a bypass style - after the carbies liks an FI setup. It creates a potential for fuel starvation at high rpms because the pump then needs to supply enough fuel for both the carbs and the return line to maintain pressure.

This may not be applicable but I've been running setup #3 on my road racer for 4 years now, with a return line from the fuel block and a Holley bypass regulator, Carter comp pump (100GPH), 1/2" ID fuel lines (8AN hose). I originally had twin solid-state pumps and a 6AN feed line but the fuel pressure dropped off at 7k. The return line is easier on the pump too.

Hopefully I won't get dinged for this but for anyone else interested in this swap I have a FS5W71B bell housing from a 280ZX I'm looking to sell, PM me for more info.

Panasport markets both a street and race wheel. The street ones are more robust (of course heavier) and not as prone to cracking. I've never heard of any street wheels cracking under normal road race conditions. The race wheels are prominently marked "for racing only" and should be inspected quite often. Here's another thread on the subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29585

No worres with any rubber cushions, etc, when the suspension is loaded the springs aren't going anywhere. Assuming the car is stock the strut top mount is one big piece of rubber anyway, and even then, anybody with camber plates does away with that too.

I thought it would be fun to do an all ZX post, again courtesy of greyghost: