hmsports

Probably one of the hardest things you will ever do -- trying to get sponsorship! There are a lot of books out there on the subject... try a google search or check out amazon. Some of the things you need to do are: - Figure out what type of companies you will target - Work up justification on why they should give you money/parts and more importantly, what they get in return - Detail a schedule of events you will be attending - Detail how many spectators they can expect at each event - Detail how their company/product will be exposed at these events and during off-time. - Explain why 'you' would be a good spokesperson for their company/product - Work up different levels of sponsorship -- Major, Title, Partner, Associate... each with a set cost and amount of signage on the car/suit - Present a professional apperance and attitude Take all this information and create a package that you can distribute. Don't get your hopes up too high on cold distributions at you will get less than a 10% callback ratio (most likely less than that). A short video -- kind of like an action packed commerical would be neat -- maybe even burn it to a computer disk that someone could run on a laptop. The best way is by word of mouth. Have a pamplet made that briefly outlines what type of racing, who you are, the different levels available, how many events and how many spectators. Make it clear and concise but professional with action photos. Have these handy to pass out everywhere. You need to get people excited about the type of racing you do. Talk to everyone about it. I've been racing for close to 10 years and over that time have had about 10 different sponsors. Most for about $500 - $1000 each. One was for $2000 and one for $7500. Total sponsorship income over the 10 years has been about $13,000. Not enough to run a great operation without a lot of personal out of pocket expenses but it helps. Best of luck

A lady about 8 months pregnant got on a bus. She noticed the man opposite her was grinning at her. She immediately moved to another seat. This time the grin turned into a smile, so she moved again. The man seemed more amused. When on the fourth move, the man burst out laughing, she complained to the driver and he had the man arrested. The case came up in court. The judge asked the man (about 20 years old) what he had to say for himself. The man replied, "Well your Honor, it was like this: When the lady got on the bus, I couldn't help but notice her condition. She sat under a sweets sign that said, "The Double Mint Twins are Coming" and I grinned. Then she moved and sat under a sign that said, "Logan's Liniment will reduce the swelling", and I had to smile. Then she placed herself under a deodorant sign that said, "William's Big Stick Did the Trick", and I could hardly contain myself. BUT, your Honor, when she moved the fourth time and sat under a sign that said, "Goodyear Rubber could have prevented this Accident".. I just lost it."

Try Spicer joints -- they are pretty bullet-proof

Panasport KSpeed <-- Prefer these guys... Mid-Atlantic Motorsports

Big difference I see is that the car is much shorter up front -- maybe they just had a 2 cylinder in-line engine :classic: Kind of looks like my first wreck...

Most of the aluminum radiators you can get are about $180 -- they do require you to fabricate some type of mounting brackets. Try Afco-Behrents... they have about the best prices I've found. The radiators are about the same width, but are taller by a couple of inches.

Picture of the 1971 Picture of the 1972 Picture of the 1965

A friend of mine just installed the ATL well-cell into his ITA Civic (about $360). The only thing with that is you can't move the center of gravity down like you can with a 'standard' style box cell. As far as the legality... all the GCR says is that a fuel cell that is exposed to the driver's compartment must have a metal bulkhead separating them. Most of the guys I know use aluminum for weight savings. That's what I plan on using. Another requirement is that it be mounted where the lowest part of the cell is no lower than six inches from the ground.

I've seen some guys use small diameter twisted wire cable to make droop keepers (looped them around and used crimps) for their springs so they stay on the perch. Dale Smith's E-Prod car uses them to keep the springs at the top so the caps on top that have bearings and the like for his camber adjustment don't come apart. He doesn't have to worry about the bottom because the perch is simply a flat plate without the stock style cup.

And the brake boost is gone too -- I'm going to use Tilton brake pedals and master cylinders that mount on the inside of the firewall.

The line from the fuel pres. isolator to the gauge inside the driver's compartment is filled with anti-freeze. This keeps all of the fuel inside the engine compartment. The isolator has a rubber bladder inside that transfers the pressure reading. The line from the isolator was much too long, that's why it's coiled up on the way to the regulator. There is a spin on adapter that threads onto the block where the oil filter goes. It has two fittings where I run one line up to the remote filter and then to the cooler and then back to the engine. On my E-Prod car I'm going to do things more neatly -- and use braided lines for the fuel lines too. Much safer than rubber.

Check out my ITS engine -- you can see that all I have left hooked up for tubes are: - From the manifold tube to the brake assist - From the valve cover to a dump can - From the crankcase breather to a dump can

Also check to make sure the push-rod between the slave and clutch arm is adjusted correctly. I've had mine feel like it needed a new clutch where all it needed was to have the play tightened at the push-rod.

I was layed off last Decemeber and was lucky to start a new job in January. I'm in the IT field in St. Louis and took a 35% paycut. That's the main reason my Z's are sitting there collecting dust.

"No, this isn't a legitimate quotation from the Quran (or Koran), the sacred text of Islam. The chapter and verse citation quoted above is a leg-pull, an obvious play on the USA's (the Eagle) launching of military action against Afghanistan and Iraq (the "lands of Allah") in response to the September 11 terrorist attacks on America organized by Osama bin Laden (the "son of Arabia awakening a fearsome eagle"). That the chapter and verse selection match the date of the terrorist attacks (9:11) is another giveaway to the joke. Depending upon which translation of the Quran one uses, the section corresponding to chapter 9, verse 11 actually reads something like this: But if they repent and keep up prayer and pay the poor-rate, they are your brethren in faith; and We make the communications clear for a people who know. "

I purchased a MillerMatic 175 this spring (to replace a 20 year old Lincoln 220 unit) and couldn't be happier with it. Another thing to consider when looking at a welder is duty cycle. The 220 units usually have a greater duty cycle and depending on what and how much you are welding comes in handy. As far as thickness, the 110 unit will work perfect for carts, stands etc. but if you plan on doing any heavy fabrication such as trailers, the 200 unit is a much better option. I ran my own 220 from my basement to a new box in garage and then to an outlet for my welder. It is a dangerous proposition if you haven't work with electricity before -- especially 220. Many experienced electricians have gotten bit -- and badly hurt (or killed) -- by 220. Figure several hundred dollars to have an electrician run a line for you. For a beginning welder like yourself, the 110 unit will be the best bet. Plus it is more portable and once you get proficient, you may be able to make a few bucks. Oh, whatever model you get, spend the extra money to get the infinately adjustable voltage control and not the one with the five position switch as you can get better control of the power.

If a man alone in the woods speaks, and his wife cannot hear him, is he still wrong?

Granted mine was a race car and as long as it fits the 50/50 rule it was fine. It took 6 cans of primer and 11 cans of color. Looked pretty good... for about a month and then the sun faded it terribly. Changed from bright yellow to butterscotch. Go with quality paint or else you will have to sand it all off and do it again later.

For SCCA Road Racing in ITS you need at least: - Six Point Roll Cage - 5lb Portable Fire Extinquisher - 5-Point Harness (not with Y-Style shoulder harness - shoulder straps must be separate) - Main Power Cutoff Switch - Window Net - Working Brake lights - All lights (except brake) must be taped over - Front and rear bumpers - Remove steering lock For E-Production you need at least that for ITS plus: - Fuel Cell - All lights must be removed (except brake) - Bumpers optional - Front and rear window clips - Front window cave-in straps

Replacing the hose and bleeding is exactly like it is for the brakes. About the hardest part is breaking the fitting loose from the original hose so you don't round off the 10mm nut. Make sure to flush the master and lines real well while you have the hose off too.

You are correct about routing a hose to get the freshest, and coolest, air from outside the engine bay. Check Race Parts Wholesale for their neoprene hose in different diameters. 3" at 10 feet for $49.99. Part Number: THENN-300. They also stock the NACA ducts that make a nice funnel style input area behind the grill. Although you can use dryer hose, just get the best quality you can so it will last.

I've read over the years some articles and discussions about ram air and the SU's. It seems that what benefits the SU's the most is simply a fresh 'cooler' air supply. There seems to be no benefit, and some say it actually hinders, using a ram-air setup.

I purchased my 4:11 from a local salvage yard a few years back for $150.00 -- from a 4x4. It is an exact bolt-in swap -- simply remove the rear cover and turn it 180 because on the 4x4 the diff is installed upside down compared to the 240. You also need to swap the flanges for the half shalfs. That's it -- the housing is the same.

There are a couple of things to consider when pre-prepping a car to build a race car... but most importantly is safety. I've seen Z cars raced where there was virutally no repairs performed on the rusted rails/inner fenders and you could see where the front cross member was pullling away from the rail. It was just a matter of time before a major failure could happen. As far as dipping/stripping, that is a matter of preference. Two advantages of starting with a stripped car is that there is not 30 years of crud stuck to the bottom. The second advantage is it is much easier to determine where a fluid leak is coming from. I guess if you were able to weigh the crud and original paint you strip off a car and compare that against what you put on you might save a few pounds... although sprung weight isn't the most advantageous place to save weight. Since there is a fairly good chance of crunching and dinging when wheel-to-wheel racing, it isn't really worth spending a huge amount of money on a primo prep and paint job (although I've seen those kinds of cars out there -- usually the guy has more dollars than sense). A good way to judge is by using the 50/50 rule. Does it look good at 50 feet and 50 miles per hour? To get back to your original question, I have always found the most solid tub I could and repaired any rusted floor and frame rails. On my second car I had to replace the whole right frame rail with a new one and do about 40 hours of floor pan repair. Ended up being the best and fastest car I had.