=Enigma=

Dark here as well. Looks like a black or olive chromate treatment to me.

Yup, that would be the ballast resistor.

I think you will find that there are very few cars that still have these "flat-top" carbs on them. Most have long ago been converted to the earlier SU "round top" carbs. The flat-tops were introduced due to more stringent emission regulations being implemented in the US starting in 1973 I believe, and are generally not considered good performers. If you're going for strict originality, it may be possible to get them working but finding replacement parts may be difficult at best. It would be much easier to replace them with the earlier round-tops. Here's a good place to start researching these carbs: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/SU/tunacan.html

I don't know about the paper, but have you see this tech article? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18108

I believe a rare few still remain. I run across them from time to time. I doubt even Carl would have had the patience to remove ALL of them.

Try the bushings first. If that doesn't work and you still have the original R180 3.36:1 diff and plan on keeping it, find a working 75-78 tranny and swap it out. If on the other hand you plan on changing to a later R200 diff, find an 81- 83 5spd donor and grab the R200 3.90:1 diff and tranny as a set.

Hey that thing was rebuilt in my back yard. I used to live in Scotts Valley. Now I'm going to have to find some time to stop by and ogle it.

Guys, if this is cyclical in nature and changes frequency with speed, it is not very likely to be any of the mounting points, but is more likely a half-shaft u-joint, wheel bearing, or even something in the diff. That being said, all of the the items mentioned so far should be checked anyway, however my money is on a bad u-joint at this point.

Welcome to the forums and congrats on your first post. We'll need a little more info before a diagnosis can be attempted. When does it happen, acceleration, decelleration, when you go over a bump, when you turn left, right, only in reverse, etc.? That said, the most common source of rear end "clunks" are either the front differential isolator, or your moustache bar bushings. In the future, I recommend using the forum search feature to see if the question has already been asked and addressed. Most aspects of this general topic have already been covered pretty well. Cheers, . . . Enjoy the site.

It looks like a 240 shell but what's with the 260 style brake lenses? Was this a feature of any of the BRE 240Zs?

That's a sweet looking little car. I don't remember ever seeing tail lights like those. Are those SSS type or something else?

I'm feelin' it!

Here's a few: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1Cobb/3.1engine.htm

My 73 has an early 5spd and it doesn't look like any cutting was done from below. I can shift into all the gears just fine. As Will said, I'm pretty sure this is only an issue on the earlier years (70/71). I plan to swap that out for an 83 ZX tranny shortly and don't expect to do any cutting with that based on the research I've done online.

Yup, as indicated in post #4: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=214767&postcount=4

Disconnect the fan belt, find a smoker, bum a cigarette, light it and hold it near the suspected area. If there's a leak you will see the smoke gravitate towards that area. Works for me. Oh yeah, Aloha from Oahu!!!

For me it's knowing that I'm driving and preserving something special and not blending in with all the generic shapes of modern cars today. You guys are pretty cool as well. Hopefully I'll have a chance to meet some of you in person in the near future.

Oh the sweet sound of a pumped Z. I ran across that sometime last week. I thought the driver was doing a pretty good job sliding theat Z around on the track.

Nice pics Dave and a happy belated B-Day to you buddy! That's my mom's B-Day as well. We went to Vegas to celebrate her 65th and see the Cirque d' Soleil show called "O" at the Bellagio. Amazing show and highly recommended.

My 240Z in not an auto and I have one of these. I belive they were originally added to the 240Z as part of a multi part fix for the vibrations caused by the forward placement of the diff. This placement issue was later fixed by moving the diff back, but it seems the dampener remained for good measure.

On my 73, the hood hinges are painted the same color as the car, and the motor mounts are painted the same nissan blue as the block.

Good question. I'll have to leave this to one of our 280Z owners, however I'm not sure it would make much difference. If it were me, I'd put the large end towards the back. Unless you have a good reason for wanting to remove it, I suggest you leave it in place. The official name is "PLATE DAMP DIFF MTG - RR". The part number are as follows: pre 12/74 = 55418-N3000 post 12/74 = 55418-N3701

That piece looks a bit different than the standard piece on the 240Z I'm accustomed to looking at which is a simple rectangular piece, but assuming it is connected to the bottom of the front diff member, it's the same piece and is a vibration damper designed to minimize the transfer of vibrations to the body caused by the drivetrain.

I guess that depends on how anal you are about doing a "correct" restoration. This is the difference between it being visually indistinguishable when installed vs. being the "correct" part.

The one without the ugly bumpers, but I guess that's a subjective opinion. Just kidding, nice job on both.