Pop's Z

I rebuilt mine ayear ago, and I filled it with R/C car differential oil. I got it at a hobby shop locally. The brand name is Mugen and it's called super silicone for diff. It comes in several wieghts. I started with #5000, but it was too thick, and the fan never disengaged. So after removing the whole thing and cleaning it out with brake cleaner again, I used #3000. It works perfectly, and has for a year so far. The o-ring was re-used with no leaks. The problem with parts from places like Autozone is that the clutches are not rebuildable. This job was pretty easy except for the scraped knuckles during the two removals/replacements. Sometimes our cars require a blood sacrifice. Cheers, Mike

I agree. Oliver is good to the Zcar community. Thieves suck. I hope they get caught and punished. Mike

FWIW, in my '73 240Z I am running a 4:11 KR180 from a 200SX combined with a later model 5-spd from an '82 Maxima. These are behind a stock '82 motor from a 280ZX. I use the car for canyon carving here in Northern Colorado. This combo is perfect for that. It has great acceleration and turns a few hundred rpms less at 70-80 than my stock 4-spd/3:36 R180. Be advised that you will have to take the side buttons from inside your 3:36 and put them in the KR180 in order to use your current half-shafts. It's not hard and gives you the opportunity to put new seals in, You will also need to get a red speedo gear so your speedometer is accurate. Look on hybridz for a complete differential sticky thread that will tell you all you need to know about differentials and making the side button change. Cheers, Mike

Arne, I'm still in. 1 240Z, 1 DATSUN. Thanks again for all the work you're putting into this. Cheers, Mike

Try ACE hardware. It's amazing what they have. NAPA is also a good source. Cheers, Mike

Nice shiney bits, James. Keep up the good work. You just might be done by the time I get back there (Feb.-March 2011) Cheers, Mike

Hi Dave, Got mine yesterday. Thanks for doing this. Now, hopefully, you can get back to your 260. As I have said before: YOU DA' MAN!!!!! Cheers, Mike

"The Renowned Mr. Brown" for obvious reasons. Cheers, Mike

Hi Dave, Count me in for one also. I know, use and trust your work. Cheers, Mike

Be sure to stop in at Motorsports Auto in Orange. (1139 W. Collins Ave., 1-800-633-6331) Great guys and they put on the best Zcar show the last weekend in April. They are sponsors of this site and I have had nothing but good dealings with them. They can help you with any problems or questions you might have about your Z. Cheers, Mike

What he said. I had the dreaded speedo bounce and solved it by buying a graphite tube at NAPA. I emptied the whole thing into the cable at the speedo end. Accessing that particular part is not fun. I had my dash off at the time so it was easy. Once done, the speedo is steady at all speeds. Good luck getting your hands back there. Do yourself a favor and take off the steering wheel and take the seat out. More room for under-dash contortions. Wear eye protection, too. You will get some on your face. Cheers, Mike

Hi Matt, I just went out and checked my car and the 001 is on the front. Zmanofwashington is always correct on these matters. My memory storage system seems to have some funny little blips lately. As I now remember (?) the long ones ARE on the front. They are the progressive ones. When you load the suspension you'll see they compress alot, in fact the coils are touching, but they stiffen up considerably. They look consideably smaller in diameter than the stock springs, too. Have fun with your project. Hurricanes? We don't need no stinkin' hurricanes. Cheers, Mike

Hi Matt, I installed these on my '73 240. Long springs in the rear, short ones in the front, numbers on the springs are right side up. You WILL have to use a spring compressor. The Tokico springs are the ones which don't require them. I had to re-do the placement of the compressors on the first spring to make them work...couldn't compress them far enough. The progressive(short) springs go on the front, the rears(long) are not progressive or so I've been told. I use them in conjunction with KYB struts. zsondabrain Dave told me they would work and they do, a nice combination. Some say you shouldn't use Eibachs with KYBs, but I have had no problems going on two years of spirited driving. Good luck with the project down there in the Republic. Cheers, Mike

AND as long as you're going to Oregon anyway, be sure to take in the Oregon coast, possibly the most beautiful drive in America. I did the drive in my '73 Z in '76. Fantastic and lots of cool places to camp. I think Oregon has the BEST state park system going. Enjoy the ride. We are all living vicariously through you. Cheers, Mike

Hi Courtney, I recently installed a Hot Rod Air system (both heat and A/C) in my '73 240Z. The kit was $1260. They did include a bracket to mount the A/C compressor to the engine which Vintage Air does not. I spent a few more $$ to get the right heater hoses, etc. It was not the easiest thing I ever did, but it was worth every penny and skinned knuckle. It works very well...hot air from the heater and freezing cold air from the A/C side. If you are not much of a mechanic I would advise you not to take it on. I removed the dash,console, seats and the old heater. Removal isn't that difficult, but putting everything back was somewhat more difficult. As you have a '78 did it come with air? If not you might look for one that has the factory air option. Now that being said, I could do the same install in about 10 days time knowing what I know now. If you would like to see some pics of the install pm me w/ your email and I'll send some right along. Cheers, Mike

You could just go buy one at NAPA. They have all sizes and terminal ends. It doesn't have to be Z specific. FWIW, I made my own using terminal ends and cable from WestMarine( yes, the boat store). I also put in a battery disconnect switch (also from W/M) at the same time. I lived on a boat for 16 years and always made up my own cables. All you need is some non-acid core solder, some shrink tubing, and a propane torch. Piece of cake...custom cables. Good luck. Cheers, Mike

Hi all, I just finished installing a HotRod Air system in my '73. I ordered the fresh air system, but returned it as I just could not figure out how to install it around the hoses for A/C and heat. Because we have the fender vents into the car I figured it was no big deal, and so far it isn't. I thought that if I needed vent air with fan support it was time to turn on the A/C. The A/C is so efficient that I have to keep it turned way down to avoid freezing my nu-nus off. I also decided to fully insulate the cockpit and that has helped the efficiency of the system as well as quieting down most road and engine noise. The heater also works very well. One of these days when I get more time I am going to do a write-up w/ pictures (I took a bunch) and post it. I have been very happy with the service and help from the folks at HRA. One nice feature of their kit is the compressor mounting bracket speciffically for Z cars. If anyone has questions about my install, please send me a pm or post it in this thread and I'll try to answer as soon as possible. Cheers, Mike

Oy Rick, I installed KYBs and Eibach springs. I did the struts first the springs a year later, and was favorably impressed with the KYBs. Replaced Konis which were harsh. Cheers mate, Mike

Hi Joel, Try calling them 1-800-527-1909. I also don't see it on their website. I am going to try and make a copy of mine (may be write protected) and if I'm successful you are welcome to a copy. I'll let you know. Cheers, Mike

FWIW, Courtesy Nissan in Dallas www.courtesyparts.com has a parts CD of the old Datsun microfiche parts catalog. They also have a service manual for your car on CD also. Cheers, Mike

I put '90 Z32 seats in my '73 and they were "almost" a bolt-in. Essentially, I removed the S30 seat rail sliders from the stock seats, ovaled out the mounting holes and bolted them directly on to the Z32 seats(after removing their mounting sliders) using the mounting bolts from the Z32. As the brackets were then about 1 1/4" wider than stock so I drilled new holes in the mounts in the car outboard towards the door and inboard towards the tunnel as evenly divided as possible. The result is a better seat with more padding and firmer thigh and back support. I am 5'10" tall and have about 2 1/2" of clearance to the roof. It would be difficult to wear a helmet with these seats without somehow lowering them, but as I don't race the car it is a non-issue. I have pictures of the install and if you want to see them send me a pm with your email address and I will send them along. It was a good swap and fairly easy. I did NOT use the power seats. They are both manual with the driver's seat being adjustable up and down front and back, fore and aft, a back support, adjustable seat back sides, and recline. I love them. Cheers, Mike

Hi all, I am in the process of installing the Hot Rod Air system in my '73. It is not the easiest thing I have ever done, but the challenge is stimulating. When it's done, I will post a "how-to" w/ pics. At the moment I'm still plotting out the running of the heater and A/C lines through the firewall. There's not a lot of room to manuever there. I found the people at HRA great to deal with so far. They had some supplier problems earlier, but that seems to be solved. One of the reasons I went with them as opposed to Vintage was that they had a compressor mount for the Z. If you are considering a HRA system don't bother with the fresh air system. There's just not enough room to duct it. Also don't order the evaporator mounting bracket as it just won't work. I'm using aluminum bar stock and using some of the old heater attachment points. More to follow. Cheers, Mike

If you are ever in the Bahamas try their national beer, Kalik. Excellent taste and more alchohol than most. Cheers, Mike PS: great thread!

Well, boys and girls it's Fat Tire for me or Skinny Dip (Fat Tire "lite") from our local New Belgium Brewery. It's the best. Cheers all, Mike

Hi Stephen, Just a word of warning. If your car is lowered at all it may scrape and bend the spook when coming down off those ramps. Before I put my spook on I had driven on to the ramps, but when I was done (I used the three threaded holes in the cross member and drilled some in the corner valences, by the way) As I was coming down the ramps my wife yelled at me that the spook wouldn't clear. (I have Eibach springs and have a hard time fitting a jack under the spook...I have to approach from the side between the spook and the front tire.) I ended up jacking the front up and using jackstands to pull the ramps out. Just thought I would add my 2cents. And just wait until you forget how low it is and whack a parking curb...heart stop! Bottom line is that the spook really works especially in a cross wind and above 70mph. You can feel the steering stay "normal" instead of getting real light. Good luck with the rest of the project. Cheers, Mike