2ManyZs

It depends on which hose it is. Is it the large one in the back of the tank or the smaller one on the front? If it is the large one in the back, you'll need to either get the original or make one up using a piece of tybing as it has a 90 degree bend in it. The smaller one in the front can be replaced by regular 3/8 fuel hose, but it too has a sharp bend, but it you loop it around you can make it work. The larger hose in the back doesn't have any room to make a loop instead of the 90 degree bend so you have to splice one together using tubing to make your bend in it. This large one is the most critical as that is where the air will escape to vent the tank while you are filling it. FWIW, that large hose is still available, although it is expensive, about 50 bucks from MSA. If you try to make up your own, you'll almost have to drop the tank some so you can get your hands up in there to work as there is very little room as you probably have seen already. Easiest way is to use the original unless you want to go through the hassle of dropping the tank down to make room to work so you can fab up a replacement.

Thanks Alan, but there is no hurry as long as you can get the correct measurements that's all I'll need, looks like it will be next summer before the car ever gets back on the road anyways...:disappoin Unless you want to post the measurements for others that is... In all the pics I've seen of them I never noticed that they were mounted differently side to side...

While we are on the subject Alan, is there a diagram or the measurements as to where the mounting holes should be for these? I've got a set of the Nissan ones on the way, and I want to mount them in the proper position, and since I doubt they come with a paper template to mark the position of the holes, I was hoping you might know where one could find the measurements. I hate to drill the holes but....

Yup, anything that can be unbolted from the car is OK in fiberglass or whatever..... Unless someone comes up with patch panels for the unibody or chassis that are made of carbon fiber with a some way to bond the two together that is..... That might be the answer instead of hammering out metal patch panels..be kinda expensive though.......:cross-eye

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First thing I would check is the small pins that are on the backside of the wheel to cancel the turn signals. Make sure they aren't out to far and rubbing on the end of the column.

Well, you're right, they are hard to find... :tapemouth I know I have at least 4 somewhere..... might take a day or two to find the right box or jar or drawer or........:cross-eye

How many do you need? I think I remember seeing some in a box somewhere in my shop... finding the right box might be a problem though.....:stupid:

I don't know that I would use a welded rear in an auto-X car, unless you were to use adjustable sway bars. The welded rear will tend to push the front end of the car (the heavier you are on the throttle, the harder it will push) and without adjustable sways bars to bring the handling back more towards neutral you will end up hurting your times while trying to wrestle with the understeer. Slow speed with a welded rear is a real work out just trying to turn the wheel.... it will make the steering even heavier than normal.... Since most auto-X's are fairly low speed, at least compared to road racing, I'd stick with an open rear until you can get some type of LSD. I ran a welded rear in my road race 280 for 3 years and never got the handling right..... I think one of these Phantom Grips would be better than a welded rear for an auto-X car and I haven't heard too many good reports on the Phantom Grips....even a factory LSD is better than the Phantom Grips, of course, none of them would be as good as a Quaiffe...but even a Quaiffe would have it's drawbacks on an auto-X course where you go from off throttle to full throttle a lot.

As far as using fiberglass instead of metal, I wouldn't do it on a uni-body car as the entire uni-body is the structure of the car. There are really no areas of the uni-body that aren't a structural member of the car in one way or another. Every piece is tied into another to form the chassis as well as the outer body and with one are compromised it will end up putting more stress on the areas that haven't been patched. If these cars were like a Roadster with a body-on-frame design, there would be no real problem with using fiberglass, but on a Z, I wouldn't use fiberglass unless it's to blend in a set of flares or something like that.

Now, I wonder where they all are... Wasn't long ago we were just hitting 3,000.

First, turn the drum so the inspection hole is just about in the "7 o'clock" position. Then if you can, drill the hole out to 1/2 inch so you can see inside and get your screwdrivers in there to work the ratchet. Don't worry, drilling it out won't hurt the drum at all, and by the sounds of it, it may not be salvageable anyways if the shoes have been dragging for a long time the drum is probably cut so deep that it won't be able to be turned. Then, get your self a good little light and a couple straight screwdrivers, and with one, press down on the arm from the E-brake. If it will stay out of the way, that's good, if not, then using the second screwdriver you need to turn the adjusting wheel down to loosen the shoes. It's a good possibility that the wheel cylinder might even be froze up and that's why the e-brake cable is unhooked, or else the e-brake cable is froze.... hard to tell until you get it apart to inspect the wheel cylinder. If I'm not mistaken on the opposite side you need the drum in about the "5 o'clock" position to line up with the adjuster. Either side, you still need to turn the adjuster wheel downward to loosen as the arm works on the bottom of the wheel and swings outward when the e-brake is used to tighten the brake shoes.

Well, 450 is a bit steep, but.... it's brand new and compared to spending a couple hundred on one of unknown condition used, I'd go with new if possible. Another 100 or so for bearings and seals, and you'd have a brand new rebuilt rear good to go for as long as you own the car... Most of the R-180 3:90's you will find, have either been used in a race car which means you'd be rebuilding it anyways or at least changing out the center section if the spider gears are welded, or would be from a well used street car..... I know where you could probably find an R-180 with the 3:90's, but the rear is welded and you don't want that on the street, and the price is nearly the same as the new ring and pinion for the complete (but used) diff. Which means you'd end up pulling it apart to swap out the spider gears and then you'd want to change the bearings... yadda, yadda, yadda... see what I mean? Only other alternative is to find one in a junkyard from the front of the 720 4x4 truck, which might be in somewhat better condition as most probably weren't used that often in four wheel drive in your neck of the woods.

Bearing first, then lock ring.... if you looked at it and thought about it you'd see how they have to go... bearing has to be in the race to work...

Here's another good chart but it doesn't list the 4:11 http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/ratios.gif For a street car with the 77 5 speed, I'd be tempted to go with the 3.90 for the simple reason your overall gear ration will be nearly the same as what it was stock. In other words, you will turn basically the same RPM's as you would with the stock 4 speed and the 3:36 rear on the highway. If you are going to use it for mostly auto-X and don't care about a couple hundred more RPM's while cruising, go with the 4:11. It's all up to which gear ratio you can find... neither is a bad choice with the 77 5 speed. I just saw a brand new 3:90 ring and pinion on Ebay last week going for 450, or about half price of what it sold for new......wish I'd had the money or I would have bought it myself.

MSA has them still listed in their catalog for 140 each... although on a 73 you would need to use the 70-72 mounts. With these mounts they would fit nice and tight to the body whereas the 73 bumpers stuck out further and had the rubber "fillers" behind the bumper face bar. Dunno if MSA still has them or not....as hard as some of the fiberglass parts are to come by now, I kinda think they won't be available.

Bra's on a car have their drawbacks and their benefits... I have yet to see too many bra's that don't lift up or flap at highway speed... this will mess up the paint in a short time. Moisture or condensation trapped under it can ruin a paint job over time. Never had one on a Z, but the one's I have had always seem to flap in the wind and leave marks in the paint. They do protect from rock chips and make bug cleani-up a bit easier as you can use a protectant on the bra that will make the bug "remains" come off much easier than trying to scrub them off the paint. It all boils down to the quality of the bra and how tightly it fits and whether or not it stays put while driving.

FWIW, my car had a lot of "rattle-can" undercoating over the top of the original paint and undercoating in the fenderwells. I used a product called "Under-Gone" from Eastwoods, spray it on, let it sit, and just scrape it off with a scraper. They have another product to get all the tar residue off as well. Little messy, but not bad.

If you put 3 pints of lube in it, I'd say you are looking at a teardown soon. They only hold a little over 3 pints if I remember right. Which tells me the countershaft bearings have probably not been getting much if any lube to them in a while. How long was the trans run with the lube this low?

Steve, you should have taken a few extra ones along... you know, some people would like one similar to yours....:devious: Who's the guy on the left signing autographs? The face is familiar....but then, even John Morton doesn't look like he did when I shook his hand at the IMSA races many, many years ago.....yeesh, that was quite a while ago now that I think about it....

Cutting the valence is not required... but you'll have to leave the pipes hanging a bit low to clear the valence... My advice is don't do it... in 6 months or less, the packing will be burned out of the mufflers and the noise will drive you nuts. Not only that, but the cops will just love you too...... I had the twice pipes on one Z, and will never do it again, once the packing burns out, you'll effectively have a straight exhaust. Best thing I can say is get the 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 "Turbo" exhaust with a good turbo muffler. Even then it can be a bit noisy with headers, you might want to look through the archives a bit, I think you'll find quite a few people who put a small bullet style muffler in the tunnel to quiet it down even more and get rids of some of the resonation. Dump the cat since you aren't in CA and required to have one, it's probably half plugged up by now anyways.

The Pertronix system is just another way to get rid of the annoyance of adjusting points..... I didn't want to say this before but........ the only thing it could be besides the ignition is that when you installed the head and cam chain, you didn't get the cam timed correctly. If everything else is the same as it was before, perhaps when you were putting cam gear back on, maybe you bumped the cam or it wasn't at TDC when you installed the chain and it is now either retarded or advanced? It could be off only by one tooth on the cam gear and that could possibly cause the engine to be way off in its performance. I know you didn't want to hear that, but since you just had the head off there is always that possibility.......

Whew..... well, if it were me... I'd get rid of the dual point dizzy and go with either the ZX conversion or just a stock dizzy with the Pertronix system..... One set of points is a PITA, two is rubbing the pain with Ben Gay, if you catch my drift....... That's just my opinion..... Only thing I can think of is to check your points and see if you have any pitting on the points and re-check your timing. Could also be that CD ignition box too.....

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Since only the front one is doing it, it sounds like it might be a "lean pop" caused by the float level being too low. Check and adjust the float level and see if that doesn't cure it.