2ManyZs

Hmm, claims it only has 4484 miles, yet the block isn't the original color.... carbs not original, hacked up air cleaner. 280 seat covers.... those must have been 4484 hard miles or someone didn't like their tail sweating... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470423486&category=6187

It's been re-listed yet again....now the starting bid is 28K.... I wouldn't buy it for the simple reason the seller has no idea what they are doing..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470239118&category=6187

There's a huge difference between buying because you have to buy one, and buying one because you want to. Someday you'll learn all about resale value and depreciation when you buy your first new vehicle.

I'd try it one more time, starting with the master, and if that doesn't help, it's almost assuredly a weak master cylinder that is causing the trouble.

I've bought 5 new Dodge trucks in the last 11 years, and they don't invite me... Shoot, I'd be happy to get the chance to wring out one of those new Neon SRT-4's......:devious: But, I guess I could deal with a Viper...:cheeky:

This might be one of those :stupid: kinda things, but does the tool have an adjustable torque setting on it? Should be near the air inlet in the handle if it does. A shorter hose should help some, especially with the smaller compressor.

Oops, must have missed this one in all the new posts. With a stock cam I think I'd stick with the lower compression. If you plan on upgrading the cam in the future, either one will work. With 9.9:1 you'd want to run at least 91 octane, and that could run into a bit of change with the way the gas prices keep going up.

Don't really need to go back 50 years, I remember many of those things in the 70's when I was a "young'un"......

Before you tinker with the carbs, I'd highly recommend the video from ZTherapy. You'll learn a lot more with less trial and error by spending the 20 bucks for the video, and you'll have it to refresh your memory if you need to tinker with them later. http://www.ztherapy.com/

If the cylinders can be bored .040, there's no reason to go any further unless you have to. You could probably get away with .060, but, if you do that now, and have a problem that require another boring at a later time, you'll be looking for another block instead of just boring it again. Now sure what the limit is on the F54, but it's probably a bit more than .060, but, if you take the block to its limit, you may want to get another block as a spare just in case.

Chloe at MidwestZ has a complete kit for the spindle pins with pins, nuts, washers, and the lock pins for about 80 bucks last time I looked.

Either that or someone finally sat down and thought about what they did this morning.... They'll probably get a few bids now...All the Z Store cars we've seen so far on Ebay have been selling for 18-20K, so maybe this time it will actually sell.

I just noticed this morning that it has been re-listed with a starting bid of 27.5K.... no bids on the previous listings with a starting bid of 25K and they raise the starting bid????:stupid: :stupid: :cross-eye

A few of the things will make the steering hard to turn are: Wider than stock tires Tire pressures too low Bad or improperly lubed ball joints Steering rack not properly lubed Bad or improperly lubed bearing on top of struts Steering rack bushings worn, resulting in rack movement before the tires turn. Bad u-joints in steering column Steering rack pinion too tight, results in binding of rack and pinion That's not all, but those are the main causes....

I guess the biggest question is where the neutral safety switch is. Is it on the old auto shift linkage or is it somewhere "invisible"..... It ought to be just a simple two wire switch that you could just unhook the wires and connect the two of them together to bypass the switch....

Well, I was thinking the same thing Stephen, but then the reply would have rambled on into the diff mount, mustache bar bushings, etc.. etc... etc.....being the cause of the noise.:cross-eye

Glad we helped you find the problem Holly. I'd much rather deal with cantankerous U-joints anyday than trying to find an electrical problem, especially on a 280....:cross-eye

Are you thinking about Dennis Weaver in "Duel", oh green one? Driving a Valiant thru the desert and gets chased by an old Peterbilt pulling a tanker?

Looks OK to me, and the price is about what I'd call average for a mechanical pump, anything less and I'd start to wonder about the quality of the pump. Looks to be a stock aftermarket replacement.

Mechanical pump is an easy job, couple hose clamps, couple bolts, gasket and that's all there is to it. A leaky pump diaphram could cause quite a few things, including putting air bubbles in the fuel, which could cause erratic idle and even vapor lock type symptoms. "Dieseling" can be caused by a few things, one of them is a bad vacuum leak. Another of the usual suspects is too fast an idle speed (even as little as 100 RPM's over the "standard" of 750-800)and last but not least, timing that is too far advanced. Of course, excessive carbon buildup in the cylinders or on the piston crowns can do it also. Those are the usual causes, there are more but usually they are a combination of things.

For the same price, I'll take the driveable car that might need minor work....It could take almost your initial investment in the car just to get the chassis to where it would support the weight of the rebuilt engine, plus, you might have to buy another parts car to "donate" it's roof to the cause. With the condition that roof is in, and not knowing how long that car may have sat out in the weather like that, the chassis could end up looking like your yellow car Kevin, and we all know what happened with that one don't we?:devious:

This POS has a 2500 starting bid, and the car is listed right below it with a 2500 Buy It Now, wonder which one will sell first... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2469632865&category=6187 Man, some people make you wonder about the gene pool huh?

If they've got the same part number, I guess that shoots that idea out the window...... I'd be looking at the tumbler portion of the switch, ignition relay in the engine compartment on the bracket in front of the battery, fuel pump relay( think that's on the kick panel under the glove box) and even the fusible links under the hood as the next possible causes.

Hmm, good question..... It should only have one unless a PO put it there for some unknown reason. Maybe they were having trouble and thought two was better than one? Never know what a previous owner was thinking when they do some of the things they do to a car....... Actually the 73's didn't have an electric pump at the rear when they were sold until the recall for the vapor lock/driveability troubles, at which time Nissan recalled them and put a kit on them. The kit consisted of the electric fuel pump, 7 bladed engine fan, and the insulation for the fuel line, and maybe one other thing that I can't remember......

Engine bay looks to have been painted with a brush and the paint is falling off, I think that's why it looks like it burned. But that roof and hatch is what would scare me away.... what a POS that is. If the roof and hatch have rusted through like that, what's the underside look like??:cross-eye :sick: He'd be lucky to sell that for more than 500 bucks....I'd be afraid to twist the chassis putting it on a trailer with a roof that looks like that, car is liable to end up bent in a V.....