2ManyZs

If I remember right, the 260-280 console had what amounted to a cradle that bolted to the front end of the console that held the radio... I've still got a console from my 75 in the shop, I'll look and see if the mount is still on the console tomorrow and post a pic if it's there.

Here's one place you can look... http://www.autobodystore.com/Default.htm Just do a Google search for automotive painting and you should come up with hundreds of others. The best way to learn it is hands on though, so if you have the chance, the best way to learn is to go through a tech school course. Either while still in high school, or after.

If you can't see it with the front cover on to drill it out, the only way to do it right would be to remove the front cover. There's a possibility that it was cross threading since only a short piece snapped off and it might not need to be drilled out, but, you ought to chase the threads with a tap to be sure after you get it out. You might get lucky and only need a pair of thin jawed vice grips if the end of the bolt is sticking out of the block far enough. Think of it as a good preventative maintenance exercise, you'll get to check out the timing chain tensioner and chain closely, replace the cover gasket which has a tendancy to leak a little at the bottom, and replace the front cover seal all in one shot.... Lot of work to do when a simple water pump change was all you needed........

Most people just replace them with new or reman ones since the replacements are so cheap, under 25 bucks. There used to be rebuild kits for the slave, but I wouldn't bother unless you wanted to rebuild the old one after you replace it for a spare. Even with a rebuild kit, there's always the possibility that what you have won't be in good enough shape to rebuild and last for long. By the sounds of the color of the fluid, you definately want to flush out the system thoroughly, and if it's been like that for a while, the possibility of moisture in the system, would likely be the reason the slave failed in the first place.

A safer place to put the jackstands in the rear is the short section of frame rail that runs just in front of the wheelwell, just on the outside of the control arm mounting point. Best place in the front is on the frame rail just behind the T/C rod mount. Radiator supports can hide rust issues that you won't know about until it's too late.:cross-eye Such as in this pic....sorry, I don't have a good pic of where I'm talking about in the rear.

The car in the top pic belongs to auxilary, the pic looks to have been taken at a show Stephen, maybe he remember which show it was at.... The blue car is owned by another member and here's his web-site. If you look in his parts list you'll see he got the Kaminari air dam from Motorsport Auto. http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/

Wow, that's a high price on the Ralley car..... That one is still available, and by the Tower Hobbies site it's about 84NZD (60US) not including shipping. I'm planning on adding one of the two ralley cars later, and maybe the maroon ZG model and then call it quits for a while, by then, I should be able to work on the real one sitting in the shop.

I was wondering the same thing Kyteler, so I bid on the first one...:devious: hehe, got it for $49.50......:classic: I was really expecting a lot more bidding on it since it has been discontinued for quite a while.

True, the cam profile is going to be a factor in how high you want to rev it, but as anyone knows, there are times you rev it higher than you expect....:devious: I should have added in my first reply, the compression ratio will be a big factor in the equation too... Phred would be a good one to tell you about the maximums of the stock pistons better than I as he has built race engines and knows where the cut-off point should be.

You shouldn't have to worry about the pistons, I've known people who consistently take their engines to 7500+ or - without problems with standard pistons. It's the valve springs and the rods bolts that are probably the major determining factor in how high you can rev it. I've seen more "rod ventilated" blocks, broken valve springs/keepers and rocker arms from over-revving than piston failures.

Ah... sorry to hear that I think if I were him, I would have left you in the front with one girl and sat in the middle in the back. I thought you had tried to get 5 people in the back.... :devious:

And you would expect those 2 guys to complain in the backseat with 3 girls? Wouldn't really matter what the girls were wearing would it?:devious:

But I bet none of those 5 were enemies were they????

I looked through all the pics while I was approving them and I don't see any obvious problem. The inner control arm bushings look to be originals and not in the best of shape though.... The toe-in looks a bit off, but not too bad. I'd say changing the inner control arm bushings might be enough to fix it, but, at the same time, there still has to be a reason for it to be off. You could take the easy way out and replace the inner control arm bushings with the adjustable ones, which will should give you plenty of adjustment to put the toe-in where it should be and kill two birds with one stone, new bushings and fixing the toe problem. Plus you would gain a small amount of camber adjustment to boot..... Tough one to call....if it were mine, I think I'd go with the adjustable control arm bushings, perhaps also change the spindel pin bushings at the same time, replace the strut cartidges, check the stub axle bearings and everyting else whil eyou have it apart. Then put it on a frame machine when you have the time and money available just to be sure the chassis is not tweaked a little. Motorsport Auto still sells the adjustable bushings, so it is not a problem to get them.

10:1 shouldn't be too much trouble with the stock starter, however, you should upgrade the battery to the highest CCA you can get in a group 24 for those times it might decide to be ornery about starting. This could be part of Scott's trouble, the battery might be one of the lower CCA batteries and it's not supplying the amps needed... I'm not sure, but I think the ZX's had a slightly higher torque starter than the earlier cars. Someone else will have to jump in on that one...I'm not very well versed in what the ZX's had or didn't have. Higher torque aftermarket starters are available last I knew, but they would probably be pretty pricey...

Yup, the higher you go, the higher the cylinder pressures will be. Of course, no. of cylinders/cylinder volume plays and important part in it as well. In other words, a small bore engine with a high compression ratio won't be much harder to turn over than a large bore engine of the same number of cylinders with a lower ratio. That's why you'll see high torque or gear reduction starters used on big block V-8 engines that are running lower compression ratios than say, an L engine that is actually running a higher ratio. That's also why you'll see a 24 volt, gear reduction starter on a diesel engine too, as they run 16:1 compression and higher with very high cylinder pressures to ignite the fuel.

If the toe-in is causing odd tire wear on that side, I'd almost be tempted to take the car and have it put on a frame machine at a good body shop instead of wasting money on the alignment shop. The alignment shop is only going to tell you the alignment isn't right, and if nothing is visibly bent/broken/wrinkled on the underside of the chassis, the next place they will suggest is a chassis machine anyways. Since there is no adjustment (that is unless it has adjustable camber bushings) the only possible reason for the toe problem is that something such as the control arm is bent/or the chassis has been tweaked. If you have a digital camera, and can jack the car up far enough to take a good pic of the control arm mounting and rear control arm, most anyone one of us here can tell you whether or not there is a bent piece/wrinkle where it shouldn't be/ or other obvious problem.

I was thinking that for the cost of the airline ticket and your extra 300 you should almost have enough to have it shipped. The larger carriers only charge roughly $1000 bucks coast to coast, so from Reno to El Paso couldn't be much more than half that price. There's so many things that could happen, so many little things that could be wrong with the car, especially buying it sight unseen that this could be a trip you will regret taking. If you are set on making the trip, I'd make sure to have everything that has been mentioned, along with a couple extra cheap fuel filters, a can of brake fluid, and a container of the pre-mixed antifreeze along with a basic set of tools.

Here's a set of four just listed on Ebay that don't look too bad. Hard to tell their true condition in th epic though. http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2461108012&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1

Tower Hobbies show a few GTR's and one KPGC in 1/18. Don't know if those are the only ones that Kyosho has ever made or not. Look on the third page. http://www.die-cast-models.com/listings/main_venkyo.html

Ewwww... it's yellewwww.... Just kiddin.....:devious: Not bad for the price, only thing that would have made me think twice is the sunroof. Better hang onto that 3 piece rear spoiler, that's one you can't find anymore.:disappoin So, how long before this one is upside down and in pieces?

I'd definately look into where the PO ran those wires from. I'm wondering if he could have got his power form one circuit and a ground from another such as the turn signal circuit which could be causing part of the problem, especially if there is a short or ground problem on one of those circuits.

I guess if you can try to sell an aircraft carrier on Ebay, you ought to try to sell a few planes they can shoot off the catapult too..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3078059896&category=4672 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3078910291 Wouldn't it be nice to find out where all this money is coming from and get a handful for ourselves?:devious: :tapemouth

Look at the bottom of this page on the SCCA web-site. It is one of the classes in amateur road racing that the Z cars were very competitive in up until just a couple years ago when they started allowing newer cars in to the class. Now they aren't dominating like they were, as some of the new cars are mid 90 model year cars with 4 wheel discs, and much stiffer unibodies. http://scca.org/amateur/club_racing/classes/index.html

Me? Hmm, I've had: 73 240-sold, raced, wrecked and junked 75 280 ITS-sold, being raced again by new owner 72 240-stripped for parts due to rust Still have: 71 240-workin on it slowly 72 240- ITS, wrecked, may be repaired 72 240- rusted out, probably will be stripped for parts for ITS car 74 260- wrecked, parts only 76 280- rusted out, bought for parts