240260280z

good luck!

Did you check the efi fusible link from the batter +pos to the fire wall area. Trace the power from the battery. You can get the wiring diagram here http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf Here is the factory service manual: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/77_datsun_280z.zip

Could also be used as a bow tie for a robot

For a new timing chain merely changes the rpm range where the valves work best. Position 1 gives more higher end torque and position 3 gives more low end torque. For a worn chain it can help get the valves to work back at their stock position.

Hi Robin, I have a friend who was captured in North Africa and spent time in Italy as a prisoner. As the allies, advanced, he was taken North and eventually back to Germany. I bet he saw your dad's squadron up in the sky.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCgibrhQvSw#t=113

Black plugs means running rich. Check the water temp sensor and associated wiring. If you drive again, bring a can of carb cleaner and a spark plug wrench as you will keep fouling up the plugs and it may not run again until you clean them. I had this happen to me once when the connector too the water temp sensor came off. Have a look here for info about what I am talking about: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/runningrich/index.html Check the pigtail connections too.

This was an interesting thread...I learned a lot. Thanks! btw Jeff I am not used to seeing a non-yellow car in your avatar yet

Check the spark plugs to see of they are black and sooty and report back.

A non-points distributor is a great upgrade....especially at high rpms' yes get the piston at TDC then check the marks

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34559-adjusting-vacuum-advance-zx-distributor.html

You can probably find substitutes as a good hardware store.

Wow that is fantastic. Keep it original and you will have a great investment too.

Great stuff. You may be able to remove the vac advance but give it more initial advance to compensate.... say ~ 17 to 19 at idle. This should help the mid RPM problem (from too much vacuum advance). However the small print side effects of no vac advance are: It may be more difficult to start and, you will loose fuel efficiency at cruise. The vacuum advance canisters are adjustable but you need to chip off the epoxy blob to access the limit screw.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/47451-has-anyone-successfully-repaired-bimetal-contacts-dash-gauge.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/41689-diy-brighter-gauge-lights.html

Green lens that goes over instrument lamps. btw you can paint the inside of the instrument cans bright white to help increase the brightness of the gauges,

dash goes on then the bolts for the steering column holder... don't tighten too much now

If I had a way to get it home, I would have picked it up a month ago.... I will be flying over Wa next week....I'll drop a rope from the jet.

Sounds like too much fuel. The needles may not be right or the jets too low. What is fuel pump pressure?

Chamfer the tops of the holes for the head bolts in the block if you feel naughty

Maybe the hole in the jet is ovaled or the needle worn

How far down are the jet knobs turned down from their top most position? Don't rule out timing however the sooty plugs seem indicative of too much fuel.

Yup, that is how it works but it is not how it is designed. If one carb had needle in and the other with needle out but both jet screws were turned out the same amount, the carb with more fuel would do most of the work. This is why you should adjust the jet height by reading the plugs if you don't have the O2 wideband sniffer. This matches the jet height to the fuel burn...which is different depending on needle location.