240260280z

been there done that... sadly.

Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Differential Gear, Pinion & Cover (R200) 1 ASSY-FINAL DRIVE 37/ 38300-N3200 MANUAL 2+2 SEATER - 7408 1 ASSY-DINAL DRIVE 37/ 38300-N3205 MANUAL 2+2 SEATER 7409 - 7411 1 ASSY-FINAL DRIVE 39/ 38300-N3305 7508 - 1 ASSY-DINAL DRIVE 39/ 38300-N3306 7412 - 7507 1 2 COMP-HOUSING FINAL D 38310-N3100 - 1 3 BOLT-BEARING CAP (M1 38315-N3100 - 4 4 SERVICE FILE COVER-REAR 38351-N3100 - 1 5 PLUG-FILLER 38357-E4600 - 1 6 ASSY-PLUG DRAIN 32103-U8400 - 1 7 STUD-REAR COVER 38354-N3100 - 2 8 WASHER-SPECIAL,F 54474-N3100 - 2 9 NUT-SELF LOCKING 08912-84410 - 2 10 BREATHER 38352-78600 - 1 11 PACKING-REAR COVER 38353-N3100 - 1 12 BOLT-HEX WITH WASHER 08120-82562 - 8 13 SET-HYPOID GEAR 37/1 38100-N3200 MANUAL 2+2 SEATER - 1 SET-HYPOID GERA 37/1 38100-N3200 MANUAL 2+2 SEATER - 7408 1 SET-HYPOID GEAR 37/1 38100-N3205 MANUAL 2+2 SEATER 7409 - 7411 1 SET-HYPOID GEAR 39/1 38100-N3305 7412 - 1 14 BOLT-DRIVE GEAR 38102-N3100 - 10 15 ASSY-DIFF CASE & GEA 38420-N3100 - 1 16 CASE-DIFF 38421-N3100 - 1 17 ASSY-SIDE GEAR 38422-N3100 - 2 18 CIRCLIP-SIDE YOKE 38225-N3100 - 2 19 MATE-PINION DIFF BEV 38425-N3100 - 2 20 WASHER-THRUST SIDE ( 38424-N3100 - 2 38424-N3101 - 2 38424-N3102 - 2 21 SHAFT-PINION MALE 38427-N3101 - 1 22 PIN-LOCK MATE SHAFT 38428-U1500 - 1 23 ASSY-BEARING DIFF SI 38440-N3100 - 2 24 WASHER-ADJUST DIFF S 38453-N3100 - 2 38453-N3101 - 2 38453-N3102 - 2 38453-N3103 - 2 38453-N3104 - 2 38453-N3105 - 2 38453-N3106 - 2 38453-N3107 - 2 38453-N3108 - 2 38453-N3109 - 2 38453-N3110 - 2 38453-N3111 - 2 38453-N3112 - 2 25 SPACER-DIFF SIDE 38454-N3100 - 1 26 ASSY-FLANGE SIDE RH 38220-N3100 - 1 27 ASSY-FLANGE SIDE LH 38230-N3100 - 1 28 SEAL-OIL SIDE FLANGE 38342-N3100 - 2 29 ASSY-BEARING PINION 38120-61000 - 1 30 ASSY-BEARING PINION 38120-13201 - 1 31 SPACER-PINION PILOT 38169-N3100 - 1 32 ASSY-BEARING BALL JO 38335-N3100 - 7408 1 ASSY-BEARING BALL PI 38335-N3200 7409 - 1 33 SPACER-PINION BEARIN 38165-61001 - 1 38165-B4002 - 1 38165-B4003 - 1 38165-B4004 - 1 38166-61001 - 1 34 WASHER-ADJUST PINION 38125-61001 - 1 38126-61001 - 1 38127-61001 - 1 38128-61001 - 1 38129-61001 - 1 38130-61001 - 1 38131-61001 - 1 38132-61001 - 1 38133-61001 - 1 38134-61001 - 1 38135-61001 - 1 38136-61001 - 1 38137-61001 - 1 38138-61001 - 1 38139-61001 - 1 35 WASHER-ADJUST DRIVE 38154-B4017 - 1 38154-B4018 - 1 38154-B4019 - 1 38154-B4020 - 1 38154-E4600 - 1 38154-E4601 - 1 38154-E4602 - 1 38154-E4603 - 1 38154-E4604 - 1 38154-E4605 - 1 38154-E4606 - 1 38154-E4607 - 1 38154-E4608 - 1 38154-E4609 - 1 38154-E4610 - 1 38154-E4611 - 1 38154-E4612 - 1 38154-E4613 - 1 38154-E4614 - 1 38154-E4615 - 1 38453-28500 - 1 38454-28500 - 1 36 SEAL-OIL DRIVE PINIO 38189-N3100 - 1 37 ASSY-FLANGE COMPANIO 38210-N3100 - 1 38210-Y0800 7412 - 7507 1 38 NUT-DRIVE PINION 38216-N3100 - 1

ditto

maybe a few times a year. I do not like the current gui nor all the stale data.

Looks like a draw-through-carb turbo set-up with nitrous. The carb is in the lower front corner, the turbo is just in front of the brake fluid reservoirs and the hard lines near the centre of the valve cover seem like the nitrous distribution system.

Back to the title.... I would have thought a poo ride to be a soft ride?

Smog pump emission system: pumps fresh air into the exhaust stream to dilute it and to help with removing some harmful gases by chemical reaction with the air.

The bungs inside the header manifold may whistle. Consider plugging then grinding smooth.

1 is softest.

check plugs... are you running lean?

There is a corner of Vernon-Shirley here in Halifax if you are into happy days.

Thanks guys.

Good idea. The wiper linkage have felt-like washers that hold grease. Just removing the old and re-greasing reduces the resistance considerably. More heat proofing, sound proofing, and water proofing behind the dash is also good to do.

That is the problem and it is common to all 3 of your carbs. Try cleaning the plugs and see if they foul with carbon again. Wrong jets could be the cause but if it ran well all summer then it must be something else.... too much fuel pressure could cause main overflow into the aux venturi that you should see as fuel dripping out of the throat at idle (remove filters to watch/feel for fuel leaking into the throat). Of course measuring fuel pressure is best. Check fuel levels too (in main well). Btw did your carbs come in contact and catch the illness that Madkaw has?

I agree, it is probably the springs as you suspect. Softer stock springs a bigger front swaybar, poly end links, and ball-and-socket tension/compression rod fittings would be a nice upgrade to consider.

I think you should consider removing the dash and the wiper assembly and refreshing both now that you have the car disassembled to the stage in the photos.

I was helping my dad with his '65 Impala SS today. We just wanted to set the idle. It has Edlebrock 9906 4 barrel carb with idle set screws on each side (one for front barrel on passenger side and one for front barrel on drivers side). The exhaust is split on each side from the manifold back so there is independence. When adjusting the carb's idle, I found that each jet affected both sides. I am guessing the intake was where some mixing was going on. The car was also tilted ~ 5 degrees due to the floor of the garage failing (hillbilly is doing some body work where we tuned in situ). To get balanced O2 readings on each pipe at idle, the edlebrocks needed the lower side of the tilted carb (drivers) at 0.5 turns out and the higher side at 2.5 turns out. The manual specifies ~ 1.5turns out for each side. So: 1. Are edlebrock's fuel delivery and floats affected by the tilted car (lower on drivers side)? 2. Are 65 impala intakes not machined well enough so that drivers side and passenger side flow is not symmetrical/equal? 3. Do 65 impala intakes mix left and right barrels from a carb at idle? 4. Do edlebrock 9906 carbs mix left and right barrels at idle in the throat/base? 5. Are the idle screws on edlebrock 9906 carbs machined accurately so as to match flow at the same number of turns out? I appreciate Japanese kit all the more after working on Detroit metal.

Please do these two tests: 1. What do the plugs look like after you idle it for 5 minutes 2. What do the plugs look like after you drive at cruise for 5 minutes (do a plug cut and take them out on the side of the road... a photo of all 6 side by side would be nice for us to see)

1 leaner is often said to be due to intake runner and plenum design. I have not seen data to verify.

The dent could be the cause of the lumpy idle..... sorry, I could not help myself.

I thought it was a 280zx..... who knew "ugly" was camouflage?

did you see the 4X4 zx?

The guy with the reverse thread taps and dies company also had the patent on tie rods? Or he felt sorry for left handed people and wanted "neutral" steering. (groan)

I'm happy for you.

I bought a 72 with only 80,000 mi 2 years ago and was shocked at how quiet the rear end was. It seems to correlate with wear.