240260280z

Looks to clean to get muddy ever again! Very nice!

I studied at the Sheet Harbour Institute of Technology.

Part 2

We've all been there welcome to the club!

WOW. Looks fantastic!

from the plugs, the front carb could use an additional 1/2 turn of fuel jet, the back carb could be backed off a 1/4 turn. I'd recommend getting an SKE Syncrometer (silver one) and a timing light with adjustable advance. a good investment if you have carbs. The timing light also shows rpm: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000EVYGV4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3/176-2192564-9329659?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_r=0DB90H8HVPTQ6TKAVVP5&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1535015942&pf_rd_i=B000BSWEHS Weber Dellorto Mikuni SU Empi Carb Carburetor Sync Synchronizer Synchrometer NEW | eBay If you only seem to get power at 1400 rpm, it is probably not enough advance at idle as the mechanical advance starts to come in ~1,400 rpm.

One can dip a block in a rubber garbage can full of water and muriatic acid if in a pinch....

Try pulling the choke to give it more fuel when it is boggy. This will confirm CO's suggestion of being lean. A faster idle will also help when cold (pulling choke up all the way mechanically opens the throttle valve a bit more (you can actually adjust this and calibrate it). If the ambient temp was colder (autumn & morning being factors), that will also require more fuel. Nissan recommends adjusting jet height to compensate for ambient temperature but using the choke to give more fuel will help to get the motor up to temperature (where it is less sensitive to ambient air temp.... the cold metal of a cold intake causes fuel to condense on the metal and not make it to the combustion chamber...thus it is a lean charge... once the engine and intake are hot, the fuel condensation problem goes away....cold engines are always finicky because of this ).

btw dash pot oil is not significant to performance when compared to state of tune, timing, valve lash, fuel metering compression and cam design. the oil in the carb only stabilizes the piston on bumpy roads and controls the fuel when transitioning to/from WOT quickly. If you "squeeze" the gas pedal, it will not make a difference.... only when you "hammer" the pedal will oil type be noticable.... and barely by the butt dyno. A/F monitoring with a WB O2 will show some aspects of the transition and oil interaction.

I put the same set up on a friend's 240z L24 and it works great. Here are some things to consider: -T ry setting your timing to 18 degrees at idle and do not use the vacuum advance. -Try triple side draft carbs with 30mm chokes for more torque. - Try long duration cam - Rev to 6000 rpm before gear changes

I have seen this before as well as a loose wire in the low voltage harness from the coil area to the distributor that stopped the spark. The wind from the road and from the fan will shake these wires strung across from the fender to the engine. As well wet spray from the road will hit them (and the electrical connectors).

Play is normal, however, for best modulation of the throttle, it is best to have the play on the return side and none on the opening side. This means, to set up the system so that as soon as you press the pedal a few mm's, the throttle valve starts to open. Remember to set the stop screw on the floor so that the throttle valve opens all the way but it is stopped from going further by the stop on the floor, not by the throttle valve itself.

I thought the same. $1,600 for two NOS carbs vs. rebuilding/refreshing...... seems like they are concourse bound.

WOW! Great report and photos. Nice to see DIY with superb results.

Looks great!

Sounds great! Sure whizzes by fast!

You have to hide the mp3 in a zip file then upload as an attachment (using advanced edit mode). there is also a size limit on the zip. It may be better to save as a video on youtube or maybe save in a video format (movie maker built in windows can do this) and use this site to upload the video.

The carbon on the intake valves can only come from fuel or oil so if the valve seals are not damaged then it would be due to running rich.

Re: deposits on valves....Were you loosing oil? Did the valve seals have enough clearance from the valve spring retainer when the spring was at maximum compression?

I had to trench in a power cable to the garage from the house. I used my gas powered pressure washer to cut a precise 3" wide X 18" deep trench. It was minimal work and mess. No crowbars or shovels were needed.... just a pick-axe with a broad blade. We have mixed till soil here so large rocks are usually problems when digging holes. With the pressure washer, I just blasted around the rock on all sides and under then I could simply reach in a pick it out. For initial cuts I used some pipe on the lawn to act as a straight line and guide. I used a 0 degree nozzle and made a few completely vertical cuts along each side of the pipe-guide to cut the sod and soften the soil with virtually no back spray or mud. You can eventually stick the nozzle deeper in the ground to feel where you cut and the soil loosening. I just kept passing over the line and the cuts went deeper. After ~ 6 inches of depth were loosened, I moved the guide and used a pick axe to lift and snap the small roots I came across near trees. As mentioned above, the big rocks were easily tackled with the pressure washer and picked out. The slurry of silt flowed and could easily be pulled out again with the broad blade of the pick axe. Enjoy if you try this. BTW it was my boss's (wife) idea

Both are great colours! Nice taste.

I'd make new ones. Use that more pliable line from FedHill. I think 1 foot lengths pre terminated do the trick.