240260280z

Can anyone who regularly takes in the Montreal F1 recommend a prime area to view the race from? http://www.circuitgillesvilleneuve.ca/tickets-f1.html I'm about to buy tickets and would appreciate expert input

Hi Jeff, The first pic is a corner vent that had to be re-soldered due to a leak we found. It is located in rear left side of tank.

Found these on my HD and thought they would be good to share. They seem like the best photos of plugs I have seen and sure beat the drawings in most tech books. From left to right Oil Fouled, Lean, Normal, Rich

Team Zero won GT-2 past two years.

Here are some old pics from my HD

looks great... luv the seats

I concur. There are also bullet connectors ~ 1 foot from the thermostat that could have come loose. Take a look at the photos here to see what I mean: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html As well, your plugs are probably very carbon fouled. Just take them out and spray with carb cleaner and brush off the electrodes with a brass wire brush.

I had cracks develop n a head but I would notice intermittent coolant loss. The cracks were on the exhaust runner roofs in an N47 head. The plugs also looked crappy and crusty. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/head/crackedhead/index.htm

Injectors usually click/tick. Maybe that is what you hear?

I'm starting to plan a garage that I will build this summer. It will be a separate building on my lot. I am thinking interior of 36'w X 24'd X 10'h. I plan to use it for work and restorations and maybe some "on-the-side" minor repairs and maintenance for supplemental income down the road. I'd appreciate any suggestions and input to help me to "do it right the first time" Everything from number of doors, height of ceiling, i beams over head, floor tie-dons for straightening, ventilation, insulation, lighting, layout, storage, etc. would be helpful.

take measurements before you cut. put transmission cross member in when welding in new pans

s2000

He will be in my prayers. Finishing that Z in his honor will be noble.

For the archives, I had an intermittent spark on my 77z with electronic ignition and it turned out to be poor contacts on my ignition switch. When I turned it 100% of the way to "start" (i.e. to the mechanical stop), it would not spark but the starter cranked. If I turned the key ~ 85-95% of the way to "start", it would crank and spark.

The "tech" aka moron... should have stopped after destroying one side. Time to get a lawyer friend to come to the shop with you then get your car towed to a real mechanic. After my few experiences with "tradesmen" I do everything myself from plumbing, electrical, carpentry... hell I just had to have a metal roof put on my house that I would have done but no time to do. The $5,500 expert installer did not strap at 16". He used 24" to save time and now the metal dips between the straps...laywer in my future... the world is getting fuller with morons and bums.

In Nova Scotia Canada, the spreaders just sort of drop it in the lane of the salt truck. There is a small turning spreader ~ 1.5' off the ground just behind the cab. In New Jersey the spreaders are near wind shield level and they throw the stuff out across two lanes from the rear driver corner of the truck.... they sand blast your windows if you get too close.. even a lane away to the side. What is it like in your area.

yeah they were at a friends warehouse. He picked them up in Maine from a Z hoard that John from Bad Dog Parts tuned our club intro. I think those parts were left outside. Here is his car with our club racer "team zero" in the background

You may want to do this: LINK:http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

1 for the heap: my dad had a strange whistle on his '90 Galant awd. I traced the problem to a transmission filler plug that came loose and fell out.

I have both. I like the 6 into 1 better... less joints.

Here are some pics I grabbed off the net of a 280zx booster on a 240z. Some extra mounting holes seems to be all that is required. Unfortunately I have not been able to edit my tech tips for years so I have not been able to add these great items that are on my hd. I'll keep the Classic Z site well stocked from now on btw I have a feeling other boosters from other Japanese cars will work with minimal mods.

I did one. Some pics and info here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/forums/index.php?topic=3010.msg16642#msg16642

One thing to remember...quasi fictional example: If a Z weighs 2400lbs and is 50/50 weight distribution then you have 600 lbs of weight on each wheel. If a performance spring is rated 200lbs/ per inch and just fits in the strut without the need for a compressor then it will drop 3" (600lbs / 200lbs/inch) when loaded by the car. If you have a stock spring that is 100 lbs/per inch that needs to be compressed 6" to fit in the strut then the car will not drop because the 6" of compression preloads the strut to 600lbs. To properly pre-calculate drop you need: Corner weights Spring constant (lbs/inch) Length of uncompressed spring Length of spring in unloaded strut If I had time I would love to collect this data for stock springs. As mentioned above. Some of the 280z strut isolators are thicker and can lift the car slightly.

_

Join a z club buy some books on restoring and rebuilding and hot rodding Z's set priorities. Lots of resources in Canada. As well buying from USA is no problem. I think our dollar exchanges above par presently... just make sure the seller ships US Mail rather then FedEx or UPS (not sure about DHL)... UPS and FedEx have insane "brokering fees" you have to pay on your door step.... on top of their very high "international shipping to Canada" fees.