Dave Sommers

Damon, Don't fool yourself into thinking the junk yard dogs are any kind of deal. Buy yourself the best running car you can locate. Be patient and you will be rewarded with many less headaches and expenses down the road - and you will actually be going down the road much sooner...

If you really want one that looks original I suggest part # B6370-E4100 Wiper Blade. 13.25 each. Fresh outa da box looks great with no fuss and stays that way because it is stainless.

A blonde said goodbye to her husband and left her house headed for the shopping mall. A few minutes later her husband heard a news report on the radio that alarmed him, so he called his wife on the cell phone to tell her about the danger. She answered immediately and the worried husband says "Honey, be careful, I just heard on the radio that there is some crazy driver going the wrong way on Rt 66!" "There's not just one - there's thousands of them" she replied...

Newbe, You just can't plug the two small hoses as they are the atmosphere vent for the float bowl as well as the overflow and you need them open in some manner for the float bowl level to work out right. If the car was running ok prior to you making changes, go back to the way it was and just make one change at a time and you will find out what your problem is. Just changing the air filters shouldn't cause problems. It is most likely blocking off the hoses. The engineers had a reason for doing everything they did for the original design.

Okay Newbe, Heres what they do... The two small diameter hoses coming from the float bowls are to route any possible overflow of gas into the aircleaner housing where there would be less of a chance of causing a fire than if they just dumped out over the hot exhaust manifold. You could let them just vent to atmosphere and hope the float never fails, or figure a clean way to install into the back of the KN housing. The large hose from the top of the rocker is the basically the vent line that runs to the air cleaner and allows blow by gases to be reburned through the intake. Just blocking off will raise pressure in the engine and promote oil leaks. You should vent it in some manner but could be blocked for short time if needed. You might just leave the hose attached and routed near one of the air cleaners until you get something else rigged.

Wheel locks, like door locks, keep honest people honest. Generally fairly easy to remove, but they get destroyed in the process. Just take a sharp cold chisel and hammer, cut an edge into the puzzel lock so that the force is in the counterclockwise direction (remember righty tighty lefty loosey) and they general start to spin off in a few good blows of the hammer. You can also use a big pair of vise grips or pump pliers if you have the room and angle to grab them and twist. Worst case is you break off the stud, which is easy to replace once the wheel is off. Remember the thieves get them off in seconds flat, leaving your car sitting on the ground minus the wheels and tires. The ones on the parts cars I have picked up gave up almost without a fight using the chisel technique.

James, Don't stroke out on us over this issue. You've been through alot worse in the past. Besides, you already know it is the rear carb that is probably doing you wrong. The three rear cylinders are too rich if they are fuel fouled and the front isn't, rear carb at fault. Check that the choke didn't get pulled on and jammed open by accident when mine sticks open engine runs crappy - sorta like what you described. Then make sure the slide falls properly. Maybe your carb cleaner freed some bit of carbon that is now holding the slide up causing a rich condition. Last check that the float level needle valve is closing properly. If it isn't the bowl will flood and cause you to go rich as well. Could be wrong, but only those 3 things can cause you to be too rich. This is most probably something very simply. Noodle it out - don't go throwing $ at it with new carbs that are in fact no better than the SU's... just different. Good luck on it.

Kmack, I assume you already looked to make sure you don't have a slightly bent lower control arm or any damage to the other components. It doesn't take much to make that 1 degree and a slightly bent control arm would do it. Give it all a careful look and don't overlook the inner bushing or the T/C assembly either. Also exam the rubber mount at the top of the strut as they can fail - it's rare but possible. It is obvious something isn't right and if you have no damage to the bodywork, then something in the suspension is slightly off. Good luck on this one.

Hey Newbe - don't panic that's normal. If you pulled the plug right after running the engine it will smoke some out of a few of the plug holes. Depends which valves are open and the like. It is just exhaust gas or uncombusted fuel coming out the now open path to lower pressure. You have been given good suggestions on which direction to go. I have one more. Go to your nearby used book store and look for a maintenance and repair manual for you Z car. You should be able to find one on the shelf there for about two to four $ (US that is). It will be some of the best $ you spend right now and give you alot of your own answers on how to do things right. You picked a good car to start learning with as it is fairly easy to work on and a great runner once you get it right. Glad to have you on board.

You might want to check this out. Step by Step instructions by one of our club members... http://www.zcarclubnova.org/articles/240Z/seat_covers/zseats.html New covers are fairly cheap and available from several sources.

Ditto to Escanlon's advice, Many years ago I chose to repaint a 2L roadster and started to use the stripper to "get a really good paint job". Big mistake. It creates more mess than you can believe as well as flash rust on the metal. Then you have to deal with all the issue Escanlon brings up. We stopped at just one or two panels and went the more sane method of just sand prep for the rest of the panels. The result was you couldn't tell the difference between the stripped and the sanded and the stripped ones were a giant PIA. They use stripping to do aircraft as they have a significant issue with excessive weight (yes, even the weight of the paint goes against your gross weight capacity) and the aluminum skins don't have any flash rust issues. But it is still a big job and big mess too. When I repaint the Z it will be with my check book at a quality paint shop. Unless you have a great deal of spare time and are well versed as well as equipped you are fooling yourself to do it yourself... Just an opinion.

For the label you might try Banzai Motorworks in Maryland. Mike Mcginnis has had several of the original labels and underhood markings reproduced for the cars that he restores professionaly. He has also had many of the rubber parts and other things made up as well. Contact info for him should be: http://www.zzxdatsun.com or (301) 420-4200. He is a good guy with alot of knowledge and has always come through for me.

Sounds like you have got some form of junk - probably rust - blocking the fuel line or pick up tube in the tank. You must also check to make sure there is not another filter or electric pump back near the tank that has quit or plugged up. Simple test of pump is to run fuel line into portable gas tank (like you use to fuel your lawn mower) and see if the car will run from this source. In late 72/73 there was another electric pump added on a bracket just in front of the tank on some cars. This pump had a filter built in that could clogg and cause this problem. Check to see that you don't have this simple problem. If no extra filter or pump there, disconnect the line at the filter and blow compressed air back down the line and clear the junk. It may run after that (for a while). If tank is rusty or junked up, drop the tank and have it cleaned out and then resealed. You can do this yourself if you want as the chemicals to do the job are available. Eastwood sells tank kits as do others. Good luck

Yes the TLPV can be a big PIA to take out. Always consider that you will need a new pin and nuts to replace the beat up one that comes out and just purchase these parts prior to starting the job. As for the bushings, this is a job for the shop press that sits in the corner of the garage just waiting for this type of thing. Almost nothing that a 30 ton shop press won't eventually push out or break. If all else fails new control arms with new bushings is the easy answer, but poly does make a difference for ultimite control. Just remember to use alot of antisieze or good grease when putting things back together again and next time it is no problem to take it apart.

Hey ben9090, What is the finish you put on those carbs? Very nice looking. I am redoing a set of dcoe carbs right now and want to know. Thanks

Technog, I think Rob has got it nailed as to why your new clutch is slipping like an old one. if you are running a 5psd then someone has obviously made some changes from stock to probably include the clutch housing and throw out bearing sleeve. The clutch housings (pressure plates) have slightly different distances from the flywheel to the spring fingers that the bearing engages and that requires the different bearing sleeves. Therefore the match must be between the clutch housing and the length of the bearing sleeve, and it doesn't really matter whether a 4 or 5 spd is used. Solution is to check the new clutch housing against the old one and make sure they are of the same height, if not you must find a combination that allows the throw out bearing to fully disengage. Don't feel bad as this issue has caused more than one transmission to be removed many times. Good luck on it.

Thinking about it the mirror glass isn't symmetrical, so they are different left and right. Maybe a swap could be in the future. Cool addition to a US Z - a wrong side mirror.

Do you want a NOS one or would a used one do? I bought a NOS one from the dealer couple years ago very cheap (In use) and I have a used one lying around if you want used. But, isn't it the same mirror with the glass portion turned to the other side?

Actually, both previous replies have merit to them. The ballast resistor's job is to keep from cooking the coil, not the points. The voltage crossing the points is only to trigger the coil to discharge. High tension coil voltage only runs down the wires through the dist cap and rotor. If you choose to bypass the BR you do need to check the temperature of the coil. A stock datsun coil will run too hot and burn itself right out in an amazingly short period of time. Aftermarket HP coils will probably run ok - unless they were designed to run at the lower voltage supplied by a BR. Simple solution - get an MSD and problem solved, plenty of spark for any engine stock or modified.

The only problem I have with GRM is that every time I read an issue it makes me want to sell off everything I own and get a full blown racer... I've been tempted many times in the classified section of GRM. Definitely one of the best motorsports mags around.

As usual, the advice of 2many is dead on. The horse power of the z comes from the head and not the extra little bit you get from boring larger. Only do it if you have to.

You can run the Pertronix with the MSD equipment.. I have it on my 240 and it works just fine. You must have the MSD tach adaptor to use the stock tach though. If you just have no spark after installing all of this equipment, sounds like you have something wired wrong. Get out the meter and make sure you have voltage where it is supposed to be and the wires connected properly. The MSD will provide tons of spark, once it is correctly wired. The pertronix ignitor will run dead on without maintenance practically forever. Ran a set in my last gas powered boat engines for thousand of hours with no maintenance ever. If you can't figure it out, do as mike advises and go back to original and add back on piece at a time.

Royce you win the prize even though you were just a tot when these wheels were popular. They do look great on a zcar and have a period correct feel about them. I have a couple of photos of one of my early cars that had a set of these, maybe i can find it a post the photo. Am Racing still makes a set that look similar, but in five spoke design for muscle car applications. VW I would need to know the rim width and offset of these wheels before I was seriously interested in even considering them. They came in at least three widths, 5.5, 6 and 7 and different offsets were available as the 4 bolt pattern also fit other vehicles. Only the 0 or 1/2 neg offset works well for the Z.

I am running a 411 right now with a zx 5 spd and it works out just fine. Sorta like bolting on 20HP the easy way... With a 4 spd it may be a bit buzzy, but the slightly higher ratio of the final drive in the 5spd takes the edge off. If I was going to drive to LA from here in the east I would be tempted to go back to a 354 to get the highway rpms down. But for local travel, it works just fine.

The roadster 5spd can be used with a z car, but it is more difficult a swap than just going with a later model 5spd form a zx or other model. The issues are mainly two; the rdstr trans is a 3 piece design with the starter set up for the U series engine (driver's side). You must swap the bell housing for one off an early 3 piece 240 (70-71) so the gearbox fits an L series with starter on the pass side. The rdstr gearbox is a good set up, but they had issues with spinning the 5 gear drive sometimes and were also prone to syncro problems, just like the standard 4spd. A better box is the older Datsun comp 5spd using the porche type syncros, but it is not commonly found. In short just get yourself a late model 2 piece gearbox that fits an L motor and give the rdstr gearbox to our roadster brothers - they need it more than you do and it is alot less trouble for you as well