madkaw

I have read many threads and posts about doing floors on the s-30 and using the Zed findings replacement floor panels. I recently was asked for pics; and I thought I had a thread on this-but maybe I never did. Sooooo, I am going to post up pics of the floor replacement I did and what was all involved. This is NOT an easy project-especially if you are shooting to make the car look original. Nothing aftermarket is plug and play. Expect to spend 40 hours of hard work to get this done and look original. I had plenty of tools that made this possible, i.e. air compressor, air tools, mig welder, grinders, cleco sets, welding clamps, etc... I am in no way endorsing Zed Findings floor pans with this thread, just letting you know what path I took. You can read the thread and make your decision. First-the carnage. Remember, it's what you can't see before tearing into a project like this that will take time. DISCLAIMER; I am in no way a bodyman. This part time fun and mad money for me. There are probably many other ways to do this, but i am sharing my adventure. I have had no training on such skills-just school of hard knocks!

I can second Bryan pics are of hls-30 41000-8/71 and the belts are very original! Ignore the seats-they are not. Belt J hook fastens to quarter window lower corner

Ummmm-if your not sure, you might want to make sure- or you WILL be doing a complete head rebuild.

Well hello Bo-haven't seen you around these parts lately. Like Bo said-and you said you weren't hurting for money. Find another shop that can get the basics done in a reasonable amount of time. You do it right and that little l24 will reward you nicely! This is what you want it to look like!! Again I ask-stock valve sizing?

Stock valve sizes?

Thanks for your input Mike. Yep-preperation is everything, that's why I got the heat gun out. I was so unhappy with the fit that I wasn't going to even put it on unless I could make it look better-and i still might not. I must say that the heat gun and pressure works pretty well to get the dash cap to hug the corners. IFFFFFFF I had time , andIFF it was my car, and I had other reasons to pull the dash, I would probably go with a repair.I don't like the fact that the cover does NOT COVER all the areas. Not sure why the cover comes up short on the ends. This cover comes up short at the bottom of the dash center section down by the console-again--why? The last problem is that I am a perfectionist, and this seems like such a bandaid fix. Of course I am installing it so I will know where every imperfection is, but most people will think it looks good and better than two large cracks at the top.

Skim cut like JC said and it shouldn't effect your shim job. You want the right surface for the HG to seal. That e31 wlll have some pop to it- what block?

I will try and add pics- but this is not plug and play at all. Everyones dash will be different, but the cover seems sprung laying on the dash. Sprung enough that I wouldn't trust the silicon to hold it in place. The worst area has been in the hazard switch and blank plug area. The cover seems to sit to high off of the dash. I have resorted to a heat gun and reforming the cover. I am shooting for the cover to lay on flush everywhere on the dash. So far not too bad of results, but be careful with the heat gun- it will do some damage quickly The dash is in the car

Working on the fit right now. Things I would recommend removing before install hazard switch Ignition lock assembly-unless you want to scratch the cover-very close Steering wheel-why work around it when it is so easy to remove I will report back as I go It is a Dash Top Brand that MSA sells. Grain looks good and color

Strictly by looks i WOULDN'T run that head-if i couldn't get the mating surface to look better than that. Have you checked it for flatness? Why the reluctance to have it skimmed-looks like you have done the expensive part by taking it apart.

sooo, you don't have a synchronizer of any kind? "one carb FEELS like it is pulling more air", that's a tuff way to tune carbs.

Not trying to be a ****, but what do you think we can determine from this pic-really. I can't even tell if the valves are still in there. Looks like you took them out. Like said above, the mating surface doesn't look clean, it should be bare aluminum-that's it. The stuff you can't see is what to worry about.

I found these instructions googling https://www.dashcaps.com/dashinstall.pdf I guess they warn against using silicon in the "center" sections- I am thinking they only want the edges glued to the center will be able to expand? But they also don't want silicon on the edges-or atleast 1" from the edge

Well I recieved my dash cover and can't believe the instructions(lack there of) that came with the cover. Nothing as far as application hints, where to place glue, trimming, NOTHING! Just a tube of silicon and a generic one page instruction that covers all models I guess. You might say that there is nothing to it, but you would think that the manufactuer would know from R&D what works best as far as application. I know MSA wouldn't give you any additional instructions-they probably haven't tried the product themselves. So again any tips that did or did not work for you I would appreciate to hear

Check and recheck firing order. Check and recheck timing. Check and recheck all electrical connections as mentioned above. Fill out your signature so we don't have to guess what year and model

Looks close to the Borla TMW CAI-might be a custom made job. Have looked on the RHD Japan site?

I was reading your thread and a member said that is why he DIDN'T glue his down. So I was hoping he would chime in here or someone else about other possibilities like double sided tape. Good info to know about the gauges

NGK When the engine fires with the starter fluid does it run smoothly for a second or sputters.

You did get the chokes set up correctly. These carbs can be finicky in cold weather. Make sure the nozzles are dropping when engaging the choke.

So isn't this the same symptoms you had before ?

Okay, so I just read that there might be an alternative to glueing the cover in place-anyone would like to share procedures and results?

Can you elaborate on this please?

I have two sets for sale in the classifieds, PM me if interested. Better yet, e-mail me, I have been having issues with the classifieds section

If I was closer I would love to have that L24, or just the head! Looks like another great project

You have a challenge if you are looking for one- The floors are a big job and you will have to work them new floors to get them to fit. PM me if you want any helpful hints - if you need any. I have lots of pics of what I went thru