madkaw

Maybe those centerline wheels rubbed just on that side . They do have a negative offset . I’m going to run the wheel up into the well when I pull the spring and see if that’s the case . I have heat in my studio or I wouldn’t be out here

wheel well lip

Fortunately the PO’s didn’t do much else to the car. Cut off the lip on the drivers side rear quarter - just the drivers side?

Did some serious bodywork today removing bad bodywork-lol. I got lucky that this guys fiberglass didn’t stick to anything much . I just tapped the marker area with a hammer and popped out the filler. It was a bad idea , badly executed, thank goodness ?

Wow- not getting any better is it

Very nicely done - congrats . You’ve set the bar too high for me - but it’s fun too watch !!

Oops

I’ve read where Blake has said less than .7- but doesn’t recommend it for the average builder . I think he ran less than .6 Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I thought it was 1.25mm Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

What I meant as far as measure is to install a piston in the block on the crankshaft and measure the ‘pop out’ of the block. I would be surprised if any additional thickness of HG would be necessary .

Only way to know for sure is to measure Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Or just shave the block deck. I’ve not measured a stock piston height on the 2.4 , but my ITM pistons were 0 decked compared to stock L28 being + .018

Right- how about a small vacuum leak- lean , plus advance that doesn’t work that is supposed to help with lean conditions of cruise . Just dial in 18 or so initial and plug the vacuum advance until you find a diaphragm

For now - you could just disconnect your vacuum advance and set your initial timing to around 18 degrees . This will give you plenty of timing for driving and you can see if your accel issue gets any better .

I believe those year dizzys were problematic as far as the inside guys sticking and breaking , so I would guess ignition issue FIRST before anything else. Could possibly be mechanical advance issue. Need to open up that dizzy and look

I believe I read somewhere that the dash pad will have built in nut plates to screw in your OEM metal frame. Best way to do it in my opinion.

If he builds engines he will surely figure it out . That could be anything from a large vacuum leak to a wet dizzy cap

Are you building a turbo with that engine combo? Not sure if there is just one kit that covers everything . You’ll wind up buying a timing kit and piston kit and gasket kit, etc.... Maybe one of the vendors sells a compete over haul kit

I don’t see any comments regarding the clutch fan assembly. I also think you remove the freeze plugs at this point and get all the rust out .

If you don’t know how much them what shims would you use. You could measure the head thickness and figure from there- but I wouldn’t bother . I’m running .050 cut on my 31 with no shims , but cam gear advanced and chain guide adjusted . yo

Your selling it too cheap Guy. I would think the head would be worth that .

I knew you built your own motors - that’s why I asked. My Rebello will come as a kit for me to assemble . Hopefully I’ll have another engine build or two under my belt before I do it. At least he will do the block prep for me . I will still be a bit nervous will my ‘ investment’. I do and did enjoy carbs- but wanted to prove this old dog could learn some new tricks . And when and if I go pressurized with an L motor - it’s about required

Right on the money . Damn AFR gauges are a great tool but you find yourself about having a wreck watching the damn thing and obsessing over it. I say for the most part these engines sound better and run better a tad rich - but might just be me.

What you spend in $$ will come back to you in the versatility to tune to your hearts desire and not smell gas in your finger again ! Then there’s having a lean idle and no smells of float bowls venting into the garage . You can make a tune change while watching the evening news in your lazy boy ! Weather change? No worries , EFI got it covered. So have you been doing any hands on assembly with your motors or does Eji do it all?

Not much left if the block - it’s now going to be a test jig for straightening warped heads . The pistons faired out better - my machinist checked them out and said they were good to go as far as still being round! One of the pistons is stiff on the pin- but he showed me with just some warm water running over the pin it loosened up . Now the question is to use the pistons on what? These are 86mm pistons so do I punch out another p30 block or .... ? Sures sounds fun but not sure I want to go that route . I have another p30 block sitting in front of me now and it’s tempting . Crankshaft is getting checked but I think it’s okay after a polish.