madkaw

Looking for the wired selonoid that screws into the BCCD valve. The wire is broke off inside the plug. I’m going to try and fix it but I need a back up plan. Item is pictured on the left.

So the owner came by last night to check progress. The story goes that the owners grandmother was the original purchaser. The son received the car from her and when the son had to leave the country , the brother got it. Then the brother willed the car to his niece. Now the niece( 30 years old maybe) is chatting with the dad who would like the car back if she doesn’t want it- WOW! I was able to get a shine out of the paint somehow - on a small spot. They couldn’t believe it. I think there was so much oxidation it actually protected the paint , but I know it probably won’t last. I guess this car would fit the true survivor category . Spent most of the day trying to get the EFI plumbing back to snuff. The 76-77 had too many clamps with its piece mealed trumbone of a fuel rail- PITA. 40 new clamps and new hoses later I’m getting close. Old clamps weren’t trust worthy since the braided hose diameter and modern fuel line differed so much. Probably another day or so to hear this thing fire for the first time in 20 years!

I tried texting and the message failed

Got to admit- the car looks nice ! almost funny, but not, the parts car I was referring too in my case was the same color . Guy told me he bought it and drove it and we got it on a lift he couldn’t believe how bad it was . I wasn’t trying to discourage effort , but you have a lot of work ahead of you . Lots of good people and help here

RUN IT!

So was the damper a rebuilt one? It’s hard to tell from the pic. Could a out of balance damper help work a bolt loose? I know the Damper Doc bragged about how his rebuilds were good for 10k rpm and 400 ft lbs of torque. Never tested that , but a fresh bond on the damper makes me feel good about revving it out. This does make me research more about loose crank pulley bolts.

I just pitched a pair , I might be able to find them and look. They said -made in USA- on them, didn’t give them a second look. New ones leaking that quickly -ugh

Good point! My best parts I acquired for my 240 came off a car just like that. The guy said it almost broke in half. Had almost perfect door cards though.

I’d locktite the next stock bolt on the next rebuilt stock damper and call it good. Your not running forged pistons and running 9k rpms are you? If the problem was a bolt coming loose, lesson learned . I do plan on running some kind of fancy damper on my Rebello- if I ever see it- but I think I transplant my L24 damper( rebuilt) on to my L28 build. And make sure I locktite it!

I appreciate everyone’s optimism to save all the Z’s, but this one should probably be parted out. This is not novice territory. This will be a hard lesson on biting off more than you can chew. No garage, not even thinkable. Part it out and find another body- you’ll save time , money and stress in the end

Thanks for the thread referral , didn’t think that Rock auto would have it, but they did. So no longer need this guys!

MSA went back order, thanks . Thought someone might have stripped this off their car and wasn’t using it

I see lots of those boxes around my house-lol

See pic. Just need the valve on the end(plastic with two nipples)

Parts are still coming off, and still amazes me how these west cars clean up. Got the rear brakes done. The brakes had been done recently( mileage wise) , the only thing bad was the brake hoses and wheel cylinder . The car sat so long , moisture finally pitted the wheel cylinder bore , but just barely . No reason to try and save USA made wheel cylinders . The front brakes were the same way. Brake hoses cracked , brake lines had old fluid, the calipers had minor pitting and the dust seals were all crusty. The rotors might have cleaned up by just driving it around , but when it comes to brakes , I don’t skimp . So new calipers, rotors, hoses . The car sat square on all its corners , so I’ll be interested to see how the shocks feel. The springs and shocks look so clean and the rubber boots ( I guess that’s what you call them)are all in tact . I’m Doing the front steering as I’m doing the brakes . The boots were gone on the tie rod and ball joint, but fortunetly the PO greased the hell out of everything . There was a huge protective layer of grease that kept the elements out. Bearings cleaned up as new . All the zinc is still shining really well. The sway bar bushing were shot front and back, but I had extra urethane ones sitting around. I was actually able to salvage the original end links , the nuts just came loose! Got lucky on the steering rack boots and half shaft boots , no tears or cracking.

Cliff- be aware that the inline filter at your fuel rail could cause issues of internal failure. There are sections that can come loose and actually inhibit flow

Speaking from experience with Megasquirt, he could install it as easy as trying to get the stock induction/ emission/ EFI going- IF- he gets help from someone like Softopz to get him a head start . Yes , a factory FSM helps going back stock , but less components and newer technology offsets that. I think all these options/ opinions will help the OP make a better decision

Just bought some on flea bay last week. Come with connector and about 6” of wire. The newer connectors have a better retaining clip that just snaps in place

If it’s just connectors replace them . 25$ would get you a whole set. Learn to solder and call it a day . Or pay 1000$ for a new harness if you could find one . All these cars have bad FI connectors by now

And also , a fast EFI would be 1500$ plus all the other stuff you mentioned. He might be able to have a harness made up with his ECU for less than 500$ and not swap out anything

Not sure who ‘you guys ‘ are, but simplifying one BIG part of this project would go a long way to shortening the list ??. It would be a plug and play as most people picture it, but it would a perfect fit for someone who has an empty engine compartment when it comes to wiring . I spent a lot of time searching to wire just the power of the ecu and fuel pumps, etc.. so they worked together properly . This is all done for you and it mounts in the stock place. Yes it’s a shortcut , but this list is so long and the builder will still have to have the knowledge to pull it off

I understand that the coolant does not flow thru the AAR, but warms the plate the AAR sits on- that I didn’t know. I though the AAR was purely signal based from the ECU , but I am still learning .

I knew I would learn a lot on this thread. The only thing broke that I found was the TVV valve which MSA had. I figured it was worth the 35$ and some new hoses to and see if the whole system works besides deleting everything . I don’t want to pull , plug , delete the EGR piping unless i can get nothing to work. I’ve been studying the FSM, , but didn’t read about how the TVV warmed the AAR, interesting .

If you decide to jump right in doing the Megasquirt I would HIGHLY recommend you send that unit off to an experienced guy to have it checked. I would be very cautious of a unit that has had several hands in assembling . If you go to Hybridz in the vendors section and look up Softopz , he would be the guy to get with. I would send the unit to him and have it checked. He could also get you miles ahead by putting you a harness together using your unit. This will save you months of studying and frustration . He would also load you a tune so you don’t have to figure that out either. I have a thread over there in the Megasquirt section on an install I did. You need to save yourself frustration somewhere or you will be wanting to give up early . The Megasquirt system does simplify the whole system, but the learning curve is steep if your not up in your EFI. It allows cheaper , more modern sensors . Since your starting from ground zero with the wiring I would go with the premade harness from Softopz. It’s very resonabily priced. It sounds like you got some positive responses to your questions from the PO.

First off , might need to see what you have . Compression test , look under the valve cover , sniff the oil- if there’s any in there. Get a cheap borescope and look at the pistons . Maybe even pull the oil pan . It could have a blown HG for all you know. As far as running that combo NA- it would be doggie at best and discouraging on power at most. Yes you could use it, but a smaller chamber head would make it much better. Yes more work . Or find a cheap NA motor that’s already running and drop it in there. There’s folks v8 swapping these all the time and selling good running motors for 500$