madkaw

Looks like you found a flywheel

Just had it cleaned and pressure checked . 150$ shipped

I run a stage 3 on my L24 with no issues . Idles at 800 rpm , lug around in 4th gear in town at 1500 rpm if I wanted . Very streetable !

Glad you like it Cliff and glad it motivates you. Need to get the L28 in there to really do some barking

Add another 2” pipe -lol 39E5EEBE-E03F-4DDB-85E2-C15BC99073BD.mov

Nice pic above , but also point out that is probably the stock intake valve which is only 42mm , so that side will be tight also when using the bigger valve N42

You need to get your head on straight Cliff -lol put that 31 on there! Shave some more off of it first just for the hell of it.

Reminder!

Actually there is very little difference between the n42 and late e88 in the L26 . The only difference is the N42 has the bigger intake valve .Same chamber size on both. Better clear it yourself or the valves will take care of it

Notch your bores for breathing and piece of mind - it’s easy peasy

Not a simple question . It depends on extent of removal. It would be better if you could drill out the spot welds attaching support rails to floor- only where you are removing floor. Leave the ends attached to the tunnel and inner rocker so you have a guide for floor position

I believe Z Car Depot has them- Ebay- MSA

Bigger valves , chamber unshrouded , shave some for CR bump, etc ....

That’s exactly what I was thinking -lol

Well rotisserie is done after several versions were tried. Now the car spins pretty freely with one hand . I can actually think about starting some work in it . I actually have a possible buyer coming to look at it this weekend. I said it would be for sale once it’s a rolling chassis and the metal work is done, but he wants to put his bid in now. Turns out that after meeting him at one if my sons swim meets that him and I were stationed in the USAF together at the same base , squadron , barracks , but weren’t buddies , just ran into each other in the hallways .30 years later our sons are in the same swim team at college - small world. Funnier even was when he found out my passion for Z’s , he went nuts because that was his first car and he has been looking for one . Anywho- lots of work but this solid 70 will make someone a beautiful car. Floor boards and spare wheel well are first up, then fixing the radiator core support next. Really not much for 4858. Somewhere in there though I bought another project - man I’m a dumb arse or gluten for punishment. Picked up a 83 Nissan/ Datsun 720 4x4 . Nevada body is great , everything needs work . I call it my retirement truck .

12.8 is fine and probably as good as you will do with a performance engine with triples . I run my EFI converted performance L24 at about 13.5. What rpms is the idle? What’s wrong with the idle - spitting , popping or just seems high. If it’s a high performance cam then a higher idle might be best - but that can bug folks that are use to a 800 rpm idle. Some times idle is increased for cam oiling with spray bars . More specific info is needed as far as EXACT info on dizzy type, curve, points or electronic. I imagine that dizzy has been curved if it was set up with 20 initial How does engine perform otherwise . What’s your mechanical experience with these engines ? We need as much detailed info as posssible.

20 might be a tad high, but not unreasonable for idle with triples . I would be curious what the mechanical advance is tuned to and if your running vacuum advance? Timing has many variables but WOT full advance could be anywhere from 30 to 38 degrees depending on CR , cam, fuel grade availability. I’m pretty sure that Rebello curves their distributors for full advance after 3300 or so rpms. Mine comes in earlier with my engine . I am using Megasquirt to control ignition. In low load areas of my table I run as much as 45 degrees advance. Not afraid to run high thirties cruising .

So did these parts ever go into production? Will the tea mounts be made also?

Okay - so the issue for my set up was that the center line of the support bars was not raised high enough . Basically I threaded my adjustment bolts almost all the way up and the car became more neutral the higher I went( see pic above). Now it’s easy to spin with one hand . I’ve even scratched the winch idea since now Ive used a engine stand head on one side with a locking pin . Now to actually get some work done.

Just remember that the power is in the head and tune on this motors. Any serious monies should be on the head ( cam, valve job, ) and induction system. Of course if want a decent bump in power you want to significantly change the cam specs. But then that leads into the relationship of CR and cam. These motors like cams and can be very street friendly and still make power to 7k. Most go with flat tops for bump in CR , but as mentioned you would have basically a ZX motor . The 79 head would have to be shaved to bump compression , but that’s not too $$. Don’t forget about gearing . Proper gearing with differential and trans can make for a fun , quick car with less power.

I believe the 79 head has a bigger combustion chamber so compression would much less , but doable with flat tops. 79 head has the better of the combustion chamber shapes - which helps with fighting detonation. So many choices ....

Don, i would gladly assist you in anyway with the install. If you have a question you can message me and we can call and talk or whatever. I would be glad to help you hear that run:)

I would say it more of piece of mind for new head bolts, I’ve reused bolts several times with no issues. Rebello doesn’t even use studs on his engines , he says Nissan head bolts are just fine. I would not recommend using studs . Just make sure you get everything clean on the block surface . No break in is necessary with that head

Ummm- I was responding to the OP - and relating what I found to hope help him . All good info and should help OP And welcome aboard - we always need fresh help

Car sitting for an unknown amount of time is a big clue. Addding fuel as you did probably stirred up years of yuk in the tank. When you buy an old car / classic like this you have to expect the worse. I went thru a similar issue and it turned out to be a clogged return line on the pick up tube. The fuel sending unit looked new when I pulled it out of the tank but the return had gunk in it and barely flowed and it would shut completely and it made the engine studder