madkaw

l would shave the block. Just make sure you attach the timing cover to shave it also. .020 can be adjusted for with the chain. Degree your cam . Im at 150 rwhp now with less goodies .

I’d go with a better chamber designed head - p79,90, MN 47 and bump compression to 11.5:1 and go with a bigger cam .

EFI ?

I think if you look at the 42 and and the late e-88 you’ll see there’s not much difference in combustion chamber . The N42 has bigger valves . So there shouldn’t be any real advantage with the 42 if valve sizes are the same . Did your engine make power on the dyno all the way to 7k rpms?

How much timing can you run with that combo - total advance . Can you get good fuel there? You could bump compression with a better head and maybe timing too? That p90 would have 53cc chamber unless you shave it. Try a different cam? Is that e-88 ported .?

So getting down to finishing out the interior. Had to replace the center console it was just too warped from the heat to be able to glue back together . Interesting note that the original console had no slot visible for the choke, though flipped over you could see where it had been filled in by the factory . Speakers ! So the B pillar speaker holes had speakers installed. The stereo in the car was a Sansui cassette deck with Sansui speakers. By my measurements they were 5 -1/4” speakers, thus the covers were 6” across. The plastic quarter window panels were notched as well as the Masonite pillar panels to accommodate these speakers. It didn’t really look too bad( I’ll load up a pic later), but one of the quarter panels were cracked badly. I got a replacement SET, so not sure if I want to notch the new panel or delete the whole speaker idea in the B pillar holes. If I delete then I have to find replacement B pillar Masonite . What to do? So I guess originally the speakers were behind the plastic totally? Waiting on dash cap to finish out all what I’m going to do on this car as far as interior. Everything works, every light ! Not sure if the seat belt warning system works yet. Put my Centerlines on this car for now. They work pretty good with this color car I think. Put 205/60/15 on them . The owner still hasn’t committed to keeping this car so I gave him some loaner sneakers to drive the car around . Of course it won’t be much fun with bad shocks. He won’t be thrilled with an auto trans and poor handling. It’s a shame if he judges the car based on that. He has ridden in mine so he knows the potential . The bones are so excellent on this car, hope he sees that.

You don’t want my exhaust - you would be changing too many things . Google dual exhausts Datsun . Check vendors on this site .

Duals was a matter of a personal quest of mine for looks and sound and something different . It’s a lot of work and things get really tight under there when you start running two pipes. There’s some nice systems out there for both options. My numbers were from two separate dyno’s - roughly 155 /150 on a chassis dyno. That was with triples .

Thanks for clarifying . I’m not surprised a Racer Brown cam has the bigger duration . Racer Brown has a great rep and would love to run one of his cams. I’ll be curious what PVC numbers you get.

I don’t think it’s excessive at 3” , but running anything bigger would be. Why not twin 50mm pipes. I’m running that now on a L24 .My numbers on the dyno don’t look bad and don’t have any evidence it would better with less exhaust. Then again maybe it would have had more torque with less? In the end it wasn’t wasn’t about getting the biggest exhaust for me, it was about having duals, so 2” pipes was readily available . I’m with Charles that going past the area of 3” is probably overkill

I think you have to

Most solid Z I’ve worked on

Well it might be too late, but with a steady hand you could blend the seats and at least do the short side radius. The exhaust liners make a sharp edge on the short side radius and it really needs attention . Cam - go as big as will clear your flat tops. These engines love cam and you won’t give up drivability . You have pistons good for 8k + , take advantage of it.

What have you done with valve seat and bowl areas?

And where’s the damn pics ?

My thoughts would be if I spent the money for forged pistons I would take full advantage of their durability with respect to rpms and CR. I would go with as big of a cam as possible and run 11:1+ , but 91 octane you are probably in a safe region. With MS3- which is what I run- with full control of spark you can push the envelope with timing and dial it in more safely than a dizzy, but you probably already know that . As far as porting, my MN47 Is also very similar to to the 79&90 heads, but unsure of the port structure. I could only go 35mm before getting the walls to thin. This is 35mm way down in the hole . So just matching ports of intake and head you might not see any issues

Flat tops have any reliefs? So cam is 480 lift and what duration? I would have gone higher on the CR with what you have. Becareful how deep you go on that port match. I haven’t dug into a 79 , but I know my MN47 would not open that big

Well after 25 years of sitting the 77 went down the road for a little spin. Apples and oranges compared to my Z - lol. Not fair comparison I know . Shocks are bad - from just sitting for 25 years and only 30 K miles - disappointing. Brakes were a bit soggy so I might need to purge more fluid from it . Not a puff of smoke anywhere- except a bit of burning of rats nests between the heat shield and intake - Transmisson worked well for an automatic. Engine seemed a bit doggy - even for stock. It ran smoothly with no hicups or belching , but nearly as stout as the 73 Auto I did last year( with a timing chain ready to fall off). Love to have a wideband on this motor. I pretty sure the AFM has been hacked into, so who knows where it’s at. Need to go back thru the EFI bible again and do more checks. Seems to be loading up a bit at idle, but once warmed up she idles rock solid. Something’s a miss on the dizzy too, maxed out advanced to just get the right numbers . Hopefully I just got the shaft in wrong and not a slipped pulley. Turn signals stopped working though worked fine in the garage? I SWEAR the AC is putting out cool air- how can that be!! Interior is going in . Carpet kit is a jig saw puzzle with two pieces that don’t fit - but I’ll adjust that. Ordered a full dash cover to complete a very complete interior. Everything works down to the glove box light . Owner is wondering what he got into as the bills escalate. Most Z owners would be over the moon every time they looked at this chassis. I’m betting he will sell it because he’s not a true Datsun enthusiast, but someone will benefit from that. I did find some rust on the passenger floor. Floors were getting wet from leaking water somewhere. The window wasn’t even all the way up when I got it. It was all surface rust- no pitting .

Post up your MRI’s -lol Just time to get it over with. It’s affecting my play time with the Z

Getting c5-c7 replaced in my neck . Hopefully enough time for me to recoup to drive the 6+ hours . Won’t get much done on car before hand . Might have to pay someone to wax it -lol, that would be weird ! Been too busy trying to finish this 280z to do anything on mine . Really wanted my L28 in there , but alas....

Anyone have some success stories for speaker sizes that fit well in the stock holes in a 77? Looks like there might be depth limitations . I also imagine no speaker lines up as far as bolt pattern , but maybe get lucky. This Reno car I’m doing has a vintage Sansui stereo that I’m going to try and utilize , but the speakers are shot. Don’t even need anything great , just something that fits.

Shiny parts!!

Should be okay. The fuel lines ride high in the tunnel, so doubt you’ll be cutting in that area . This is if you are only replacing rails that attach to floor

I’d say you have a tuning issue. Though gearing helps the smaller 2.4 , there should be no stumble and still should be able to take off in 2nd gear if need be. I would recheck timing (ignition) . I’d also make sure cam timing was done correctly . Everything including fuel should be checked . Something doesn’t seem right

There are some things to consider . Most cam grinds of performance cams already put some advance into the grind itself. Head shaving and chain stretch . If you had a straight head and didn’t have to shave a bunch to get it it right , or you chain is new , advancing the cam timing might not get expected results. Example for me was that my head and block were shaved around .050 total and no shims , so advancing cam 8 degrees was really needed. Cliffs experience sounds about right for advancing timing , more power low end.