zguitar71

Your car will handel best with the same size tire on the front and back. In a 15" size the the stickiest tires I have seen are in a 225/50 size the larger width tires available are not as sticky (Dunlop 8000's may still be available in a 245/50 size, they are pretty good). You are better off with a narrower sticky tire than a wider hard compound tire as far as handeling is concerned. The AZC heavy duty springs work greeat with the Illumina's.

195/60/14's and AZC springs with Tokico Illumina's and the ride height is 24 7/8 all the way around.

You will have to eyebrow the cylinders on the 240 block to accomidate the larger valves of the N-42. The compression will go down which could hurt the performance even with the larger valves.

Yes you should use the 2+2 (240mm) clutch with the 2+2 flywheel.

I never go by the speedo, I use the tach. I found my speed with a GPS unit. The speedo will be farther and farther off as the speed increases with smaller tires. I actually have a 3.7 speedo cog in the trans, I bought a 4.11:1 cog to get closer to the actual speed on the speedo. At 80 the speedometer reads 92 rightnow.

I just put on a set of 195/60/14 tires. They are small but if you like low gearing they are for you. I have an `83 5 speed and a 3.9 diff, with the short tires the gearing is the same as a 4.2:1 with tires 25" in diameter not 23.3". I can still hit 60 in 2nd gear but that is around 7500 rpm. 82 mph occures at 4000rpm in 5th. I like it but my motor is built for that type of gearing, if it was stock it would probably be too short. BTW the transmission calculator so many of us use has never been close to what my car showing. It says I should be running 3500 rpm at 80 with my setup, pretty far off.

Ztherapy carb will bring the life back to your motor. They are great carbs and the video that comes with them will educate you in every way in relation to the SU's. You might not get the power potential of tripples but they are less than 1/2 the $ and you can get a lot of power from them. I would stay away from the SM needles unless you have a larger cam and head work done, they run too rich on the higher rpms.

Do what Arne said + the stickiest set of tires you can get for the use of the car, such as street only or autox ect... All the brakes and suspension and power means nothing if you cannot get the power (from the brakes, susp, or motor) to the ground. With good tires, brakes and suspension you would be suprised how fast a car can be with out much power.

I paid 75 for mine 2 years ago, I thought that was a lot at the time, guess not. I take mine out ing the winter months (6 months) and store it in a nice soft warm place. The cold cannot be good for them, Montana cold that is.

I have run Ztherapy su's and loved tham and would recomend them for anyone with a lighter modded motor. I now have a set of Mikunis and they run great and sound increadible. The motor has high comp and a better cam and some head work. The SU's would probably work and give me close to the power on the lower end but I would not have the top end power (past 7k) that the Mikunis have.

I sprayed starter fluid on the throttle plate bushing area and all 6 are bad and a couple seem to be worse than the others. The only real problem I see is the attention it draws when I drive down the street, a little embarassing. Thanks for the help.

I'll try that, thanks. I believe you about the right conditions but with mine that seems to be any condition as long as it is above 50 degrees or so.

Thanks for the info. I did not go through the carbs before I put them on the car, I bet the bushings are bed. The carbs were used on an FP autox car for a couple of seasons then they sat for a few years before I got them and put them on my car. Seems pretty reasonable for bushings to go bad after sitting for a few years.

I have a squeeking, chirping sound comming out from my Mukuni's. It sounds like a belt rubbing but I took the belt off and the sound is still there. I pulled the valve cover and checked everything out and all is good. The sound at 1200 rpm happens about 200 times a minute (I am good with meters, musician and all) and increases as the rpms increase. It does not happen when it is cold only when warm. The sound seems to be comming from the trumpets on the carbs. I have looked at everything I can think of that would make the sound and I am left with the carbs. My racing partner sais he has heard the same sound from carbs like mine before. He seams to think the air rushing in is making the sound. Has anyone experienced this before from a set of tripples. They have very short trumpets (1.5") and no filters yet. Thanks

Even though they weigh the same having weight farther out from the center with the bigger flywheel should in theory make the revving slower but I bet you might not notice that much difference from the small one. If you want to get the motor to rev quicker you need to buy a light weight flywheel. Going from the heavy stock one to a 10 or 11 pound wheel makes a huge difference.

The 205/75 will work but they will be sloppy handeling. If you can afford to switch to a larger diameter wheel like a 15 (205/60) or 16 (205/55).

The steering coupler (I have the abs one) will increase the vibrations and jolts from the road but the feel is great IMO, I feel everything on the road through the wheel to my hands. All the suspension bushings will increase the feel of bumps and the sound of the bumps too. If you are into a better ride and a quiet ride with less vibrations then the stock bushings are for you. I do not think you would notice a handeling difference for unspirited street driving over the stock bushings either. With out some sticky tires and agressive driving they will not do much for you.

So I ran into a little luck recently. A friend and I were going to build an FP autox car but the shell we had was way too rusty. Before we discovered the rust, my friend bought (for $800) 2 motors, 1 set of wheels, 1 set of tripple Mikuni's with manifold and all the linkage and some other stuff from an old racing friend in California. So all the stuff came in this winter. He sold the wheels and make back $200. I striped the Z to a shell and discovered the massive rust (got the car for free) and we instead started to race his E Mod Z this year. So now the motor and stuff is just sitting there in his garage. I just got finished helping him install 2 motors in 2 trucks which he sold (we used my garage) so as a payment for my time and use of the garage he is giving me the motors and tripple he bought in Cal (I think I owe him some more for this). The motors are a 2.4 and a 2.8. The 2.8 bottom end is balanced and .030 over with flat tops that are .457 m.m. above the deck, it was built for road racing (EP I think). It has never been used, brand new build, and now it will be in my car. The head I am going to use is an E31 shaved 1 m.m. with the chambers polished and all the sharp edges cleaned up and the ports are matched. The cam is a 270/280 durration 460 lift. And the Mikunis (which are going on the motor) are 40 m.m. with an SK manifold. I have measured the chambers on the head and they are around 41 cc's due to the milling so they are not very much smaller than stock but the kidney shape of the chamber is more pronounced now. With the smaller chambers above deck pistons .030 over and a 1.2 m.m. head gasket I should have around 11.25:1 compression. I am probably dreaming but I am hoping with the cleaned up and polished chambers and the altitute of Missoula I will be able to run Pump gas and not detonate. I hope to put the head and short bolck together this weekend. Eventually (when I have some $, I dead broke right now) I will fully port the head and put in a bigger cam. But for now I am happy to have a high compression 2.8 with tripples and a cam from the dished piston 2.8 with a bone stock E31 head and SU's, going from 8.6 to 11.25: comp will be fun.

Yes for the stock springs/suspension set up and yes you would have to have flares. -26 offset is too much for a 9" wheel, -12 is more like it for the stock suspension and flares.

Have fun going 200 in a car with a 91" wheel base. The 200MPH cars sold these days are much longer in the wheel base than 91" and there is a reason they have 6 figure price tags.

If you are staying with the 2.4 then I would not go over a 225 width tire. The big wheels and tires will rob too much power from a N/A 2.4 even if it is built up. The bigger the diameter the heaver the wheel, not a good thing in the handeling department. A 15 inch x 7 inch wheel is probably the best choice for your car. A sticky set of 225 tires will do some amazing things for a 2350LBS car.

225 HP at the crank with lots of money spent (professional head work from someone like Rebello)and lots of dyno tuning time, Tripples, a much bigger cam than a stage III. A 2.8 bottom end would be cheaper though.

Stay with the same size in the front and back, it will handel better. 17x9 with a -12 offset will work with flares and stock suspension.

Check the fuse box. If the fuse to the interior lights looks ok it is probably the connection on the box its self. They tend to fry, it is the 3rd fuse down on the right side of the box. If it is fried it can be fixed or you can buy a new updated box (best way to go IMO but they cost $200) with a circut board. The original boxes have a tendancy to melt the plastic around the fuse and can catch on fire, real pain in the @ss.

www.precisiongear.com Same unit as the MSA but way cheaper.