240ZX

Fred, Looks kind of cool.....for a SUVZ, don't you think? You would be the talk of the town if you pulled up to your kids souccer practice in that!!!

Sorry to hear about your misfortune St.Stephen. Fortunately, time will heal that giant gash in your heart. But let's focus on the positive side of it all (Yea, easier said than done right now), think of all the time you will have now to work on your true love, your Z. Plus you will probably now have a better cash supply for more important things, like Z car parts!!! Stay strong and look forward. Remember..."Every cloud has a silver lining". P.S. Let it all out...."That f---ing, b--ch, c--t" Now don't you feel better now?

Technical information BACKFIRE is through the carbs AFTERFIRE is out the exhaust Yea I know, everyone calls it a backfire when it come from the exhaust. I just had the urge to get technical on you all.

Carl, Boy are you fast! You beat me to the post. Great minds think alike...yes?

Steve, Take a look at Autometer but, other gauge manufactures will work as well. My experience was with the replacement of the stock clock. Autometer have units that are an excellent fit, with a little modification to the original clock's bezel. Also, I've seen many pictures, on this site and others, of guys who have replaced their gauges with aftermarket units that look like they were made to fit the Z dash. If you are looking for stock replacements you might try Motorsport Auto or like suppliers. Some of the guys on this site can surely contribute to your inquiry, as they have a ton of knowledge and experience with the Z. Come on guys, pitch in here! Hope this helps a little...good luck.

Daniel, Just a thought! I believe one can purchase an environmental chamber to park your Z in. I've seen them on the internet. Basically, it's an oversize plastic bag that you drive your car onto, zip it closed, and inflat it. It has a humidity control unit that keeps the inside dry. If I remember correctly, it was on a vintage car site however, I can't remeber the name. Anyway, it might be worth investigating......that way you wouldn't have to sell your baby!!! Personally, I can't imagine having to sell mine for any reason. Well, OK I might sell it for let's say.......$30,000.00 Yea! that sounds about right. OK $50K does sound better. The reality of it is that no one in there right mind would cough up that kind of cash for my Z, I think!!! Basically, I couldn't sell my baby, as like you I have been through every nut and bolt and spent too many hours getting it the way it is now. Hope you can find a way to keep her!

I agree with Smokey regarding the Flintstone comment. Can you imagine accidentlly bumping into the curb and find yourself sitting on the pavement!

26thZ, Is this still an available item/part number from Nissan? P.S. I'm always amazed at the wealth of knowledge produced by the folks on this site.

Dreco, Well, I quess I'm wrong! Mr. know-it-all (Dtsnlvrs) APPARENTLY knows more than the guys at Rebello. Sorry for the miss information. P.S. I still would go with Rebello's recommendations. And I'm sure they considered the port matching issue.

Dreco, It sounds like you did the right thing by calling Rebello, since they built the motor and do have exstensive knowledge and experience with the L6 Datsun motors. Call it a hunch, if you will, but it's likely a safe bet these guys know what they're talking about.

EricB, Typically, shorter stacks produce better high RPM HP and longer ones at lower RPM. This pretty much holds true on header length as well. As you mentioned, the only true way to see what results have transpired with these changes is to put it on the dyno. Just one man's opinion. Hope this at least gives you a basic guide line.

Russel, Instead of going through all the hassel of replacing the strut assemblies, might I recommend just replacing the stiffer coilover springs for softer ones. Coilovers alone do not make for a harsh ride but the stiff spring on them do!!! Plus, when the little one is old enough to go to the track with you, you can put the stiff ones back in with little hassel. By the way, good score at the salvage yard. Just a time saving suggestion to another Z nut. Good luck with the new family addition coming.

Craig, Regarding the change in appearance on the ceramic coated headers. When I was getting ready to purchase mine I asked a good friend of mine, who used to race Trophy Trucks for Ford, how does the finish stand up to time? He told me he has been using this coating for many years on his race trucks and that it does dull some what (just like you guys described). He also said that after it does change it should stay that way and not get any worse. So, I went ahead and purchased them. Personally, I think that besides the anti-corrosion benifit, the lower under hood temp warrants using the coating. I believe that JET-HOT touts that the coating reduces radiated heat by 40%. Anyway, I'm very happy with the coating, even with the extra cost. I would do it again!!!

Victor, Thanks for moving my post. I just got the scoop on posting from Carl. Regarding the balance tube...Mine is the original assembly from my 1970 with the brake-vac fitting out the back however, it did have all the extra bosses for the smog stuff. So, I went though the exercise of grinding, filing, welding, more filing, and then polishing. Lots of effort but great results. Thanks for all the input guys! P.S. What a great website

I've got a question for you all. Regarding the balance tube assembly on a 1970, is it the only balance tube assembly that has the fitting for the brake-vac line that point toward the firewall, as opposed to point up? I'm just curious, because most of the ones I see point up. Mine actually comes srtaight out the back of the balance tube. The vintage of my Z is....1970, mfg date 3/70, s/n 02126. Please help us older guys. P.S. Stay young, as getting old holds no future! Unless you own a seires one Z of course.

Ha Gavin, Have you ever seen this Z (the one with stripes) in person? If it's the one I think it is, the body work and paint are outstanding. I saw it at the Las Vegas convension back in 2000. All the seams are filled, the rain gutters removed, and the picture of the woman on the underside of the hood is cool if you like that sort of stuff. Anyway the owner was telling me he had a load of $$$ into the body/paint. P.S. What's with the CRX anyway. Nice daily driver a suppose!

Hi Bruce! How's life in BC? well I hope. Regarding your question on the value of the 1973 240Z. It is of my opinion only but, I would say the purchase price would depend upon it's over all condition, other than the minor rust you described which is common. Is it running well, have good brakes, have no signs of impending failures, etc., etc. Also, how bad do you really want this Z, what will you be doing with it (restoration work?), and how available are these early cars currently? If you can post some pics of the Z in question, I'm sure you will get some good feedback from the great group of people here on this site. However, if the Z is in pretty good shape and is a decent driver then $2500.00 might be a fair price. It's just to hard to say without at least seeing the car. So, post some pics. Aaa, good luck Bruce 240ZX (Tom in SoCal)

Good humor 2Many!!! Always loves to laugh a little. Thanks for the morning smiles. P.S. I always love the adds that say....FREE with the purchase of.....well, what ever it is they're trying to sell.