mlc240z

sounds like a bad bearing. if you haven't done any major internal damage yet, you can just replace the bearings. generally cheaper than new alternator. remove the belt and spin the pulley to feel any binding or excessive resistance with condition of bearings.

you have to be careful with EZouts. they're made from hardened steel and in my experience tend to be kinda brittle. if you have to apply too much torque on a rusted bolt with an EZout in place, there is a good chance you will snap it off in the hole. at that point you now have a piece of rust-frozen bolt with a chunk of hardened steel in the middle of it. the hardened steel is a bitch to drill out. i agree with FirstGenZ, try heat first even if you intend to use an EZout.

how about running a separate ground right from gauge to chassis or battery terminal as a test? if the gauge reads more realistically with a known good connection, it would indicate either a contact/corrosion problem or just a poor wiring harness ground. at least it would give you more info to work with.

thanks schevets, already read it, that's where i got the original idea from and then did some more research. that's one of the reasons i like this site, so much info and prior experiences to learn from. it seems like an cheap and easy way, just haven't done it yet. the results posted look amazing.

one thing i can definitely recommend is the petronix upgrade to replace the points and condenser. for about $70 you basically never worry about points adjustment again. i love working on this old beauty but i still remember what a pain points were.

have you torn yours up yet, or is it basically still intact? i need to see some stupid things, like the bumper attachments, since my PO changed some things (he apparently mixed '71 and '72 parts). thanks bart

i know what you mean, dude. mine hasn't hit pavement since i bought it in 11/04. been doing work on the stupid things and have barely touched the suspension yet. being in nj i figure i have to get all the carb/emissions crap in line for our PITA inspection before i even register her. you have to admit tho, it does look great in the garage and allows you to imagine what it will look and feel like on the road. we definitely don't see many out here. i can't wait to pound some ricers!!! i passed a parked 280z by my house and it took all of my will power to stop myself from knocking on all the doors on the block to find the owner. where in central nj are you? we might be able to compare notes. bart

jeez, i thought katz must have bionic eyes.

kenz, how did you treat the rust, if any, before the primer on the front suspension parts? i can't afford the bead blasting and am looking into trying the electrolytic method. seems cheap and easy but i don't know how effective it will be. thanks, bart

a jiffy lube oil/diff oil change?????? for your penance, replace your spindle pins. that should keep you busy for a while.

ANYBODY who puts on a uniform, and risks his life and/or safety so we can enjoy the lives we choose, qualifies as a HERO in my book. Thanks for your service and don't ever think it's not appreciated. Bart

lost mine in 1995, i definitely agree. he wasn't a racer but i know he would have gotten a MAJOR kick out of the Z.

another possibility is the gland nut on strut towers. clunk on acceleration or over bumps? check about 1/2 way down page for clunk over bumps. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html

arse-end looks kinda Zish. rest of the car reminds me more of an Aston Martin DB series. sweet looking, expensive cars.

it's history. thanks guys

anybody????

i used the vb w/strip for the rear hatch and was pleased with the fit and quality. price was a lot less than others, so i took the chance. can't comment on the windshield since i haven't replaced it.

the last oem mast i saw on ebay went for $38.51. mine still works, but has a few dings that slightly affect operation. i was thinking about buying a generic mast with the same outer dimensions to use as a replacement since the oem's are no longer available direct from the mfgr. they apparently aren't even available from oem mfgrs like horada either. the last time i talked with MSA, they said they were looking into another supplier for the masts, so i guess they are responding to the demand for this part. i have a feeling you could use a generic and just cut the nylon stepped tape to the proper length, maybe? but i still need to measure the outer diameter and length. bart

my PO had painted the car to sell it, not to keep it. i haven't ever gotten into bodywork, i don't know if i have any talent for it. i always figured the paint job, no matter how 'just OK', just bought me time. i have spent most of my $$$'s on the mechanicals, weatherstripping, electrical, interior, etc. getting the car in the best shape i can. the paint job will buy me enough time to save for the 'proper' treatment down the road.

are you talking about the hatch glass weatherstripping, inner seal, or upper outer seals around the opening? i just replaced mine (as EVERYBODY on the site probably knows from my postings:classic:). i found it much easier to remove hatch for all, since you're only talking about 4 screws(hinges) and 2 bolts(support rod).

had the same problem. mine used to stay at same rpm's and 'chatter' in fast speed. tried lubing pivots and linkage, no joy. took it apart and found burnt windings and 1of3 brushes stuck in holder. thought about the honda motor swap, but didn't want to cut up my bracket. i wound up contacting john@baddogparts.com (great to deal with BTW) and bought a used motor for $45($35+s/h). works 1000% better than mine. they're still not fast, but now at least much closer to original. hope this helps. bart

here's a pic of the cover, not the best but it should give you some idea. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34206&item=4547173559&rd=1

just adjust your door striker out a little bit. after a while (unsure how long) readjust as the weatherstripping compresses. better than slamming the door, since i believe you run the risk of racking the door or breaking something.

reality sucks!!! bean is right, it will cost a LOT more than you have planned for. it becomes a case of the 'might as well's", as in "while i have the console apart, I might as well replace the heater core, valve and hoses ($160)." as long as i have to take the hatch glass out to remove louver clips, i "might as well" replace all the weatherstripping ($150)". but as it moves along, you begin to realize what great cars these are and the fact that your money is repaid to you when you drive. congrats and welcome to the club.

if it's a stuck solenoid, sometimes you can jar it by tapping the solenoid with a hammer. not too hard, just enough to break it free. this will allow it to extend the gear and engage the flywheel. if it is the flywheel, just spotted on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4546951574&rd=1 however, being in ca. you should be able to find one in the junkyard. by the way, welcome to the club. just realize it's not just a car, it really does become an obsession!:cheeky: