Daniel

Swap make in heaven( or at least japan).Use the 240 intake/exhaust gasket.The intake portion does NOT have the teardrop cut out for the FI injector. Make sure the exhaust on the 280 is square not round to use 240 exhaust manifold. Also the 280 will NOT have a cam on the end of the cam shaft to make the mech. fuel pump work. Move it over from the 240.Its easy.

Go to the Z therapy website. It shows great photos of all the combos. Not all are the same.

Those were the cleanest chickens I ever saw!! Great find!! Ive got a tag idea for it---- BRD SHT--!!!

Yep, sounds like you have charging issues maybe as simple as dirty or corroded battery cable. Years ago mine acted just like yours and it was a bad alternator.

You would think that the Uhaul would be cheaper than a car hauler service. I priced that once from denver col. to char nc. The car hauler was LOTS cheaper. If the car runs so it can be driven on the truck its cheaper also. The railroad hauls car from up north to Fla.all the time.Get the yellow pages and "go fish"

Go for the 3 row replacement. Good time for new hoses as well. if you get the old ones off without cutting them store them under your spare tire. Never know when that my come in handy.

Are you planning on straight stock? I used the 280 side to aluminum pieces they are smooth as where the old ones had that ridge that held dirt. Are the arm rest missing or torn or just broken thru the hole that holds the bolt. If its just the bolt hole I can tell you a fix.

I vote "72. I prefer the seat adjuster, center console and seat belts.Of course you could swap those. The storage compartments are alot nicer.

I read of people changing the alt. to another type. I once thought of doing that and learned these item I find of interest. The alt. as we know doesnt really produce at idle.The reason is the electric field it generates acts like a clutch on a go cart. The more RPM, the more the resistance. That said if you change the pulley and create resistance at lower rpm you can cause belt slippage, premature wear, power loss of the engine due to the increased resistance. Just installing anything on your car can cause more headaches than relief. Its a fine balance. Not to mention supplying 100amps to a alt wire that was only rated for 60 amps. Its just a battery charger. In most cases your efforts would be better spent cleaning electrical connections.

I have had a simple valve adjustment cure that hesitation. The car then ran like a new motor! Also as simple as a dirty air filter.

My guess is the turn/ headlight switch is what fried . Actually the contacts inside. If a wire is fried it will usually be near a connection point.

Valve adjustment ,worn plugs or wires are just a few

Sears also has a new type that looks like a broken drill bit with the spiral going counter clockwise. Use extreme care with the EZ out. Usually the new post will read -Broken ez out. Those are harder metal than a drill bit. My get you home fix would be drill the center of the broken bolt. Get a few sheet metal screws that almost fit the hole. use them to 'tap' a hole.The reason for changing screws is fresher cutting threads and less fatigue of the screws.Once tapped use a washer on the cover. I ran one like that for years. I did remove it finally by drilling a little into the broken bolt ,then put the drill on reverse and press hard for a while. A few times of that and to my surprise it backed out!!

Sorry about the ball and spring. I thought you were a 240 until i saw your gallery photos. The bleeding method you choose will work. The fact that you loose brakes with the motor running would seem to indicate booster/ vacuum/ check valve issues. I would check to make sure you have vacuum at the booster and the hose is secure and good. Did you adjust the rear brakes?Either manual on the drum or pump your emer brake up and down until the rears quit clicking the adj. wheel. Also I have had problems with that 10mm length on the brake rod. I don't believe that is an absolute. I have had to adj more than that. Too short =not enough push Too long = brakes lock/drag due to rod pushing in on the master cyl.

I think you gave all the info. required. NOT long winded. The prop. valve is just a ball and spring if I recall. I doubt thats it. You can buy them for about $10.00 or so from MP brakes I would think .It wont be datsun but they sell all the kits to update cars. I put disc front /valve and dual res master cylinder on my 46 chevy truck. As for your trouble make sure all your bleed valves are on the top not bottom position. Since the air rises you will never bleed it out if you swapped L and R fronts or installed rear wheel cyl. upside down.

Assume all brake and clutch parts are shot. I wouldn't waste my time/dollars trying to rebuild(yourself) any brake/clutch parts. I am a big believer of STOPPING!!:stupid: When the total cost of all those new parts seems high. Start adding up cost/ avail. of replacement front end parts. They are cheap!!

rods, air etc. are all good ideas. I cannot stress enough ,like SledZ pointed out, the booster. Damn thing drove me crazy, Makes you think you're on the trail only to dissappoint. "They " say the booster fail only makes the pedal harder. That is false!

I would recommend cleaning/fresh surface all ends of the battery +/- make sure the cables are good and not corrosion wicked. Have the battery tested. Should it be the starter/solenoid you will want this done anyway. Intermit problems can make you think you're on the trail, but so can bad starters:stupid: Tired of playing with it? A new starter/solenoid and new battery cables and odds are you won't have the problem again for years.

I had a friend that wanted MNMNNMM or such pattern that way if he ever zipped away from a cop the odds were againist him calling in the tag correctly. Can't you hear him?? It wasMNNNMN no wait I think itwas NMNMNM.... VWVVWV would be goodhuh? OH better yet!- UNKNOWN - That way the cop would call in 240 or 280 type Z car... Tag number unknown...:stupid: ROFL I did a similiar thing at one of those laser quest type things. when you shoot some one it appears in your gun display who you shot. I choose GAME OVER. When the enemy would see that and head for the door I would kill them off. It worked so well that the manager told the employees not to accept that anymore as a "code name". No problem.. My next name was SYSTEM RESET While they looked at the gun dispaly I killed 'em all.!!!

Although I would prefer a title also you may be making things hard on yourself. You can't be the only one that ever wanted to sell an old car from Ga. If it 's legal where you are then you're good. Remember that state to state flip will most likely include some sort of tax at each state. You may not like it but as long as Ga. does that may be the best you could hope for.

Things I have learned about Zcars. Jumping a bad battery is the same as guessing about jumping a bad battery. Get it tested. Make sure the battery cables have clean fresh connections at EACH end and are snug.Dont let a corrioded bolt on a battery post trick you into thinking its snug. Make certain those cables are not corroided. That stuff is like a wick and it sucks thru the cable. Although I have had starter brushes go bad/wear , I have never had a bad solenoid. I always replace them as a pair. A jumper cable attached to the STARTER post of the solenoid ,then touched to the battery positive will spin the motor ample times to know if the solenoid is bad. I would replace as a pair if I could. One of the pair would be a band aid as I see it. The caution of my test method is the pos. hit on the battery=sparks As where if the connection was made on the battery first I would be afraid of that spark/arc damaging the threads on that soleniod post I wanted off. Next rule..Dont let a loose/bad belt on your alt. make you think you have a bad battery:stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

So I'm reworking the stereo speakers in my '90 300z since the bose equipment went bad. That means I must remove all the interior panels. The area behind the driver seat and infront of the strut tower has a snap in panel. As I remove it there is a plastic box. WHA??? I say. I look inside and theres all kinds of headlight alignment tools including suction cups. Seems they supplied them with the car. They have been in mine unknown to me since 1990!! That area now houses my power booster. That's another story. I had a few of the small 1970's style boosters/equalizers on the shelf. the one I chose to install was a 60 watt. Maybe I can get even a smaller one nowadays. Wrong!! the smallest booster amp I could fine was adout 190 watts and the size of a 3 h.p. lawnmower engine. Glad I didnt throw any the good old stuff!!

I'm thinking that is a horn relay... Easy enough to test.

I'm not venting nor using your estimates. The point I was trying to make was that each vendor makes claims as to the HP gain of their "superior" product. It seems 10% is the common number. Please re-read my post with this in mind. Perhaps I should have been clearer. Sorry for the confusion.

240ZX, It kinda works like this. If all the add on stuff I put on my car that the vendors claim adds 10% more H.P. You know , an air filter, a fan, a plug wire etc. I should have about 350 H.P. huh? My point was to be cautious about such claims as there may be better ways to spend your dollar. If you have the need for extra cooling, fine get it. Should an eskimo pay for the "extra"hp? I doubt it. As for my datsun out think thing, I only meant that the engineers test the product they are given to work with to the max. I have more faith in them than some ad that is suppose to get me 10% more. Disclaimer- My son is an engineer with BWM in Munich. I may not be a neutral party.