PetesPonies

great pics Robin , thanks !! I may need other pics sometime if you don't mind. As you can see from my signature, I'm not a Datsun person. But I love these little cars and I'm putting togther a car that is in pieces )

well that is right from the horse's mouth then, thanks!!

thanks . .so the other hole isn't used for anything? Nothing to index from and keep it from spinning? Even with lines attached to it? Seems like it would move as you attach lines.

Bruce, the pressure isn't regulated between the front disc brakes and the rear drum brakes? Of course it is, and no I'm not talking about a pressure differential valve.

flex agent is a temporary thing. What I mean by that is after a while its benfits go away. Flex additive is basiucally for reinstallation of parts after they have been painted. If you flex paint far enoughm it is going to crack, period. Fiberglass needs nothing special to prep it compared with steel. A prep kit for glass is a rip off. Prep it the same way you would steel, meaning good mechanical adhesion by proper sanding, followed by epoxy primer.

to have continued success with painted chrome, you need to sand the chrome. It is best if you make it to the nickel layer beneath. Then prime with epoxy followed by your color coat. I have had real good luck with this procedure for many years.

red is more expensive, it is because of the red pigment. Non of the original 240Z colors were clear coated from the factory.

I am building a combination 70/73 240Z ( I'm using the '73 body ) . I am using the front mounted proportioning valve from the '73, but can't figure exactly how it is mounted. I know it has two holes in it, but apparently only uses one bolt. Does the other hole index on anything, to keep it straight and secure? Anyone have a good pic?

Oh boy ZwolleY , you are out there aren't you? Geez, I can't believe intelligent people can even think this way........... Hmmm, well maybe they don't? )

one of the big pluses for epoxy is that there are no restrictions as far as what is put on top of it ) I have seen but one mention of an etch epocy, and I do not believe the advertising. Basically etch is an acid, added to the primer. Epoxy, obviously as well known for adhesive, had tremendous adhesion proerties. It reqally needs nothing done to the metal. However, I use phosphoric acid to get rid of small surface rust, even so small you cannot see it. It etches the metal also for better adhesion; tooth. I use duPont 5717s. I dilute 2:1 as per instructions. From there, do as I say. Wipe the acid on with a scotch pad, working it in and removing rust. Then before it is dry, wipe it completely dry with paper towels. If you let any dry, then rewet with acid. It will leave a hazy look to the metal. Then I epoxy right over that. Everyones epoxy seems to react a little differently as far as sandability and such. I use Kirker epoxy and I find it is ver sandable after a couple days in the sun or cured with a heat light. Many put a 2K over the epoxy, so the epoxy is just your first layer. The 2K will alllow a lot of imperfections to be removed. I spray about 5 coats of epoxy, and block it. I have my body work done well though, a needed thing is using the epoxy to block. If using as a base only, spray two coats of epoxy, and then follow with several ocats of 2K urethane primer.

I do not use etch. I find that etch primer has many restrictions on its usage that makes it more of a pain. All etches are not the same. Some allow usuage over filler, others under, some neither, etc. I suggest you use epoxy primer. If you are stripping to bare metal, use a phosphoric acid to etch the metal before epoxy. This way you will have the advantages of epoxy and still have the metal etched. I use this technique all the time. You will find that epoxy is a very universal primer, thin it for sealer etc. If you ahve a lot od body work, you may want to cover the epoxy with a high build 2K. Body fillers can also be put over epoxy, which is another advantage. That way the epoxy protects the metal, and the filler is over top. I do all my work in epoxy, but no doubt most find 2K easy to fill small imperfections. Just make sure you have a fresh air system for the 2K since it is urethane based and contains isos. That is another advantage for epoxy, no isos. Pete's Ponies Mustang RUSToration & Performance

rust is impossible to completely remove and prevent. I work with rust daily. When I see a car listed as rust free, I take it to mean no damage from rust. Surface rust is not damage. Rust is nature's own protection; yes protection. Given the opportunity to dry out, the surface rust acts as a barrier. It is when constant moisture is applied to an area that more serious rust develops. I would consider an old car with solid surface rust to be a very good car. The surface rust did it's job. Your shipping company broke some undercoating off. This may be a good thing. If there is rust underneath, then there are places that the moisture can get in. This would not allow the area to totally dry out; thus more serious rust can develop. However, I always ask people, will you be driving this as a primary car? In snow and rain? Salt? A car driven on sunny days will last forever, even if some problems exist. I think the torn frame rail is unfortunate and should be paid for. It will be an easy fix for a body tech.

I'm going to differ from the first two suggestions...but on a technicality. If the undercoated in truely uncracked, not loose etc, then it may not have to come off. That is the key though, is it really in good shape. The only way to tell is by scraping. But when you run across some that doesn't want to come off, well them I usually leave it. I do restoration work. It depends on your goal, but if a daily driver is the goal, then I find it acceptable. However, I reiterate, if the undercoating is really in good shape. Not loose, slit, cracked etc.

There are debates over the effectiveness of POR or similar products. I am speaking from a professional view. I however, like to use a material similar to, but I feel much better than POR. POR has the popularity, but I feel you will be better served with Master Series silver rust paint. 1-800-833-8933. I am not affiliated with this product, but I do use it. It is a high solids material and the company has a better system for application that really works, compared to POR. Anyway, there are places that rust paints are usefull in my eye, but when used correctly. many are not used that way and I feel POR leads you in the wrong direction. Give this stuff a try and see if you don't agree.

ok, some facts for you. Body filler is polyester plastic. There are different amounts of talc added to the fillers, to create thickers or more creamy fillers. Each has it's own usage. Filler applied over clean bare metal is NO problem at all. Dents etc, where there is no rust can have filler applied directly. It is and has been done this ways for 50 years with NO problems. The problem occurs when the metal is not perfect. Over welded joints, or areas of metal deteriation of some sort, an epoxy primer applied first will make for a watertight seal. I spend a lot of time making sure my welds are not porous; no small opening left. but it is very easy to miss some. Epoxy primer will seal these up and create a good substrate for filler application. I belioeve epoxy primer is the best material to put right over bare metal. Many will want to use etch primer. Etch has an acid in it to bite into the metal. However, etch is not a waterproof material. If epoxy is applied over the etch, then that is better. however, epoxy has great adhesion properties itselff. I prefer to etch the metal myself with phosphoric acid, apply the epoxy and know that I have a good surface, one that should last. Many will apply the epoxy without etching first. Epoxy is great stuff; remember using epoxy glues??

I do painting as well as all types of restoration work. The prices you have are in the ballpark. I don't know what more you want without seeing the vehicle and discussing exactly what you want done.

I am going to have to disagree with the last post. A ballast resistor is in an ignition system to drop voltage to the 8V range, we know that. When used in a points type ignition system, it IS there to allow the points to last longer. Increased voltage allows the current to arc across the points easier. The job of the condenser is to capture that electricl potential, allowin the primary ignition system to immediately collapse, and then inject this potential back into the system upon the next ignition cycle. The points would have a shorter life it operated at the full 12V. The coil can be designed to have 12V easily. They do it all the time in newer systems as well as racing. Now, many electronic ignition systems still used a resistance to cut primary voltage. This wasn't to protect the points, as there were none. However, the ignition switching circuit which replaced the points, can become overheated. So, can you go without the resistor? In this instance, I have no actual experince to give you. I do most of my work on Mustangs and the 240Z is newer to me. Many times an electronic ignition system used a resistance wire to cut voltage, so not seeing a ballast resister is not the total answer. I have run into this on Mustangs. Many MUstangers have used the factory electronic ignitions without a ballast and have fried the box. This does not mean the Datsun will be exactly the same, but something to consider. An electrical diagram will help. You can look for a resistance wire feeding the primary ignition system. Hope this helped.

well let me try- first wash the car with detergent soap. Then wipe done the stripe area with wax and grease remover. Do not polish the wax into the paint. Follow the directions on the wax and grease remover. Measure your stripe out and use a felt marker to make marks. Buy some 3m fineline tape. This is what you want to use to edge your stripe. Now, it would help to know what paint is on your car, There are paints out there that will not react well with your existing paint. If you have a BC/CC paint, that would be best. If you want your strip to not have a hard edge, you will need to cover in CC. Lay out the stripe with the fineline, then widen it with a layer of 3/4 automotive masking tape. Then cover the rest with papet etc. This fineline tape will provide a leakproof edge, also you will remove it right after spraying. This will soften the edge. Overlap the masking tape slightly so the fineline can be removed. There is not enough space ot rime to explain painting procedures. If you are not experienced, you should practice first. A stripe is a small area, so it will be a lot easier. If you plan to CV the entire area, then it will all have to be sanded with 600 prior to taping. If you do not plan on doing that, then at least use a gray scuff pad to the taped off area to be striped. Wipe down again with wax/ degreaser and tack rag it. Then stray. Pull off the fineline when done spraying. If using BC/CC remove the paper etc and wash down with water and soap. Dry it well and then CC the entire area. Understand that all automotive paints with hardeners ( and you should not be using one without it ) have isoscynates. These are extremely posionous and must be sprayed with a fresh air system. A charcoal mask IS NOT good enough. You may want to do all the prep and have someone else with the proper equipment and experience spray the stripe. If you lived near me ( Maryland ) I would do it for less than $500. Good luck. You may want to visit www.Autobodystore.com. They have a BBS that is very popular, Ipost there a lot as well as other very knowledgable professionals. You will get a feeling for what is involved in painting. There is a lot to know and the equipemnt and paint is very expensive.

when using two engine stands, it is best to buy some steel square tube and connect the two stands. This adds stability.

whooooops!! don't know why I said it, but rereading my post, I said TDC on the exhaust stroke, no.TDC on the compression stroke. Whew!!!!!!!!! Brain fart!!! What you can do is, if the valve cover is off, look for the intake valve closing and choose TDC near that, or......put a small piece of toilet paper in the plug hole. Try to cover the hole, make a seal. Then when turning the negine over by hand ( with a ratchet ) the toilet paper will pop out when compression is made. Pick the TDC which is close to this. You can use the timing mark to do this, but remember the crank goes around twice, so it's a 50-50 crap shoot as to whether you have it at the right TDC.......unless you use one of the methods I gave you. I think I said this right this time )

all inline 6 cylinder engines fire 153624. What you need to do is turn you engine over by hand until you get #1 cylinder at TDC on the exhaust stroke. When you have it that way, the place that the rotor is pointing is where #1 spark plug wire goes. Really, you can start #1 wherever you want as long as you have it in the right refernce in regards to the #1 cylinder and when it is at TDC. That would involve taking the distributor out, however because of other reasons, there is a place that #1 usually is at so do what I described first.

I have been happy with Marhyde products. Their trim and bumper paint holds up well. Eastwood is a little more money than most. Try an automotive paint supplier locally and see what they carry in spray cans.

it works best if the chrome is removed down to the nickel. However, just rough it up with some 220 sand paper. I like to use an adhesion promoter like Bulldog. You can get it sprayable or aresol. Follow that with epoxy primer and you'll be good.

you have what is called preignition. This is where the fuel charge is burned before a sprak occurs. In your situation, there is no sprak at all because the ignition is turned off. There are many reasons for this. As fuel degraded, this became a problem with car companies. They did several things to combat it. One was to have a solenoid control the throttle valve on the carb. When the key was turned off, the throttle closed competely which did not allow air into the engine, thus nothing to burn. This is not the case with these engines however. As carbon builds up in the combustion chamber, the carbon holds heat. this heat is enough to fire the mixture. Sometimes a little water poured into a running engine will help get rid of the carbon. You can also run cooler spral plugs which will disapate hear more and not stay as hot, which can burn the mixture too. Higher octane fuel doesn't burn as easy as lower octane. This is exactly what you pay for., having the fuel more difficukt to burn. This in turn stop fuel from burning when it is not spposed to, either as preignition or along with a spark which is detonation. High comprerssion engines will detonate easier because of the added heat from compression. So high octanee fuel resists this. You may try some higher actane. A vacuum leak of any king will contributr to this. as will improper timing. Try some of these things and let me know what you find out.

Being in the restoration business myself, I can tell you $1000 is not going to go far. Sorry (