nismospek

cool, thanks won't try to regap them. I'm trying to trouble shoot my engine seems to backfire through the carbs a little during the warm up stage. I have the carbs set at about 3.5 turns out. I thought maybe they where a little too lean.

Well i'm going through my system and I was wondering what the plug gap is for a 72 240Z. I read that it was .036 and i was wonderng if that was right. I have some Iridium IX sparkplugs. Thanks

It came in a nissan box with different part numbers. the part numbers are not on the wheel cylinders though, just on the boxes and both wheel cylinders look exactly the same. Ive seen other wheel cylinders for sale on ebay and they where labled with an L. I spent the extra money to make sure i was getting the right part... guess i should have bought from ebay. I think im going to wait till monday to give Black Dragon a call. I was told that the right and left wheel cylinders where no interchangable.

So i ordered new brake cylinders for my 4/72 240Z from Black Dragon and when i opened the left brake cylinder it had a big R inscribed in it. I was under the impression that the left would be labled with a L. THe box was labled with the right order though. Is this a mistake?? Or do they not give ones with an L anymore?

i saw this for sale a while back on ebay.. not sure if it sold

Thanks for all the great info. I didn't know that those aligners existed. I guess since most of them get removed or something. I'm gonna use the 10w30 until i get ahold of some 20 wieght. Would it be a bad idea to mix the oils?? Or should i just remove the dome and clean everything out before switching to the 20 wt?

found out what the problem was.. mixture was set too lean.. it was about 1 turn out only. surprised i could ever get it to start. now it starts first try and idles strong at about 900.

yah, i read the tech tip and it recommended 10w30 for newer su's. I don't know what it could be. I ran it a few days ago and it was fine but yesterday it started with the problems. I hope i didn't burn something out...

I do have 3 screw carbs but they are new from Z therapy. I made sure to not mix up the parts when reinstalling the domes. where are those plastic things located because i don't see them. Have any pictures. Symtoms : as soon as I stop turning the ignition the car just dies. If i go hard on the ignition it sputters and backfires then dies. Normally I could baby it, it would backfire some and then then it would idle just fine... now it doesn't even want to idle.

Well i decided to try to refill my su's oil and i had some 10W30 Mobil sythetic around. I read that i could use this weight for the su's but now it tries to start up and then it just dies. ive i go heavy on the throttle it backfires through the carbs and leaves a smoke. Im gonna remove the carb tops and remove all the oil . What oil and how much should i put in there??

that is a nice car... wish it was in the U.S.

I was wondering, is that the first Nismo branded car in the U.S. other than the frontier?

Thanks for the picture. I really don't know what type of a/c i have but it is after market. Thanks for the help.

The evaporator problem makes more sense. The one i have looks to be in pretty bad shape and might be faulty. Is there any way i can get to that capillary tube or do i need to replace the evaporator?

The only thing is that it doesn't lose a/c gradually. It completely dies out as if the compressor isn't working. Thats why i thought maybe it a loose connection wire. For example yesterday i drove it to the local wing stop, probably around 15 min and when i turned on the car it wouldn't throw cold air anymore. It sometimes happens when i'm driving also.

It seems that after about 15 min my a/c just completly dies out. I let the car rest and when i turn it back on the a/c blows cold. I thought maybe it could be a loose wire. Any ideas on what else it could be??

Well it seems like I'm gonna leave the rear drums alone and focus my attention on the front brakes. Does anyone have a good walk through for removing/replacing the brake rotors and installing new brake pads? Or a good book that i could purchase. Thanks.

Thanks for all the help. I didn't realize it was so difficult.

I was wondering if the two screws on the top rear was what held the rear drum in place. If so how do you get around the brake line to remove the second screw. If anyone has any pics or links that would be great.

I didn't like that picture of the rust bubbling through, could have more rust hiding underneath.

I chose a 3-2-1 because im running on a pretty much stock car. I've read that if you plan to have a lot of motor upgrades that the 6-1 would be better.

I just wanted to make sure that the filler neck didn't actually touch the gas tank portion. I did install a clamp to hold it in place. I'll try posting some pics later today.

Yah, i ended up bending it toward itself and it got stuck that way, so I had to remove it and pull it outwards and reinstall it. For some reason the rubber wouldn't reach all the way till it was touching the gas tank. On the back end it felt as if it was bending slightly. I'm not sure how far down it was meant to go. I warmed it up and tried pushing it down as far as i could. I probably had a little more than an inch down the gas tank mouth and about half an inch away from the gas tank. I secured it with a metal clip. I poured a little bit of gas and nothing came out. Is there the possibility that it might undo itself? Is it suppose to touch the gas tank?

I've never heard of anyone using round port headers on a square port head. I would think they wouldn't match up well and you would have an exhaust leak.

well i was successful with the magnet. I got one of those long metal tubes with the magnet at the end. My next step is to try to get that filler tube installed. I'm having problems making it fit through the hole. Im gonna buy some of those metal clips and heat it up to see if I can bend the rubber enough to make it fit. Any other ideas on how i can make it fit??