e_racer1999

hahahahahahhahaha..... it's funny cause it's true

ditto. you can definitely hear the difference in flow of the air cleaners, but from experiments i have seen they let more particles into your engine (as would be obvious with more flow)

BRE and the basic MSA airdams are my preference; in that order

sweet! we'll have to meet up sometime so i can check out this car in person!

dished if it has the N42 head. i thought of a few things that MIGHT throw you, but i don't think you'll have to worry about them on a '76 N42 head. on some L28 heads there is a connector on the head that you will not use. also, on later heads the boss for the mechanical fuel pump is filled. those may be moot points since you have an N42 head, though.

nope. no problems at all.

it is just a "bolt-in" procedure, but definitely make sure that the engine is not seized and that compression is good

maybe there's a bird's nest under your hood? but seriously, have you greased your bushings? maybe a vacuum leak?

you might want to give TWM a call... IIRC they had an l-series setup at MSA this year.....

ya, hopefully i can get the head reassembled today and check that out as well... it still bugs the crap outta me as to why the car was working fine before....

superfunk - i'll check it out; the PO did some very strange wiring to the car, so i'm sure the problem lies there. the biggest thing that's buggin me, though, is that it worked fine before..... ron - currently it's set up to prevent the battery from draining while sitting, but in the near future i'm going to be running the alternator wire back to the battery end of the cutoff switch to be used for sanctioned racing. it is currently mounted on the outside rear, but is not yet marked and apparently improperly wired. but i know how to fix that, just not the stupid car running thing...

i triple checked the diode. i recycled the connector off of an old VR and made a jumper. i desoldered the diode and checked it both ways. i still have the symptoms even when the jumper is completely off! i am not using the cutoff switch to turn the car off, i'm using the ignition key. but in order to get the car to turn off i HAVE to turn off the battery switch. and yes, the CC was a PO installed thing; moderately well done, but with hideous wires running all over the place. Ron - i have 2GA wire running to the front of the car into a terminal block that takes another 2GA onto the starter solenoid and a 4GA onto the alternator, so basically mine is wired the same way as yours. EDIT - actually, upon further inspection, my alternator is on the OTHER side of the switch when compared to your diagram.... but i don't think that would cause this problem, correct? so basically, my problem is that the ignition key STARTS the car, but doesn't affect shutting it off.... AT ALL. i'm assuming that there's something wrong with the wiring at the ignition switch, and even though i have a schematic, i wouldn't even know where to begin....

nice tats guys.... i was planning on getting a simple "240Z" on my arm.....

welllll...... got the battery relocated to the back with a rear mounted cutoff switch on the back panel. at the same time i was doing that, i did the internally regulated 280ZX alternator swap (and did the diode thing) anyway, when i switch the battery switch, the car acts as though the key is in the "ON" position - brake light is on and the distributor (E12-80) "clicks" when rotated. i pulled out a bunch of crappy PO-installed wires at the same time, as well, but those were for the cruise control, etc. anyone have maybe a check off list? i'm terrible with electrical stuff, so any help would be great! better yet, if anyone in san diego wants to take a look..... Jason

hahaa, it's ok, i know you're a jacka$$ no, it's slothly (i think i made that up) all the time. when i had zwhizz check it out they said it was just a bad tach...

what about the tach only revving to about 3k?

hahahahah for those of us stateside: chook = chicken

paint it the charcoal colour...... i looooove it.

cool, thanks for the rec.

thanks for that recommendation.... on that note, i know that the bolts are M10, but does anyone know the thread pitch?

excellent. off to pepboys after work. my car *should* be running this weekend

all you have to do is click them

so a 3-leg puller will work? i was reading in an older thread (ca. 2004) that these can damage the pulley. if that is not the case, then YAY!

didn't want to hijack stephen's thread, but i am having an issue with removing the crankshaft pulley the bolts that came with the pepboys puller i bought are the wrong size, and i was wondering if anyone had any advice on where to find the right puller or what size bolts to use... anyone? Jason

yes, the roundports are SMALLER than the square ports. soo...... a square header will work ok on a round port head, but not the other way around