Bambikiller240

V8-240Z's original link (in Post #1) still works fine for me. I'm looking at the site right now.

"Thanks for the Plas-T-Pair reference......... Anyone have a link to the mfg'er for this product?

http://www.bondo-online.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=241

I think maybe the circular spring w/ tang in the Operating Rod to Motor connector has broken where it locks into place.

Well, that's a different story. It could be that the a part of the connector to the wiper motor is broken; or that it has been taken apart previously and not re-assembled correctly. Was it working correct, then suddenly started working wrong? Or has it always been workig wrong since you got the car? Hey, at least it's summer where you are. I have been slowly working on a Tech Article on rebuilding the Wiper system. Priority is a bit low at the moment, but I'll get it done eventually.

remove the nuts that secure the arms to the pivots. Re-set the arms to near the bottom of the windshield. re-install the nuts. To "re-lube everything" you will need to completely remove the entire Wiper System (including the wiper moter, operating rods, and pivots) from your car. Disassemble everything (except the motor) clean, remove any corrosion, regrease and assemble everything, then install it all back into the car. It's not terribly difficult, but does take more than a few hours and must be done carefully to get everything back together correctly so that the system operates properly.

I used patches of steel, welded into the holes when i needed to repair rust holes. We can buy 2 part epoxy putty bars (you knead the 2 parts together and it hardens); POR Epoxy Putty or buy stuff called JB WELD which is 2 tubes of a paste that hardens when you mix them together. J B WELD

can't help you then.

What is "bog"?

For lots of info and support on a V8 conversion to a Z, see www.hybridz.org These fellas do all kinds of modifications and transplants to Z cars.

Heaven help you if the extractor breaks (like they often do). It is HARDENED steel and when I broke one in a manifold stud I had to take the head to a machine shop ($$$$) to have the broken extractor and stud removed.

I'll have to check further (not going to do any metalurgy tests), but the spherical bearing didn't look like steel on my two sets of rods.

I wasn't meaning to argue wether it would work or not, just curious. Teflon might make things quieter When I took mine apart, only the Pivots (looked to be bronze bushing) had much corrosion due to dried out grease. The Spherical bearings in the Operatinng Rods (also bronze) were/are in great shape. I do have spare parts now "just in case" something goes bad in the next 30 years. (If I last that long)

Teflon bushings? In the R and L Pivots? In place of the spherical bearings on the Operating rods?

I am almost positive that on my 72 240Z there are 2 bolts at the bottom (where the alt pivots). The hole DOES NOT go all the way through the Alternator mounting bracket. You use 2 bolts, one from the front and another from the rear to secure the Alt to the bracket. I don't remember the length of the bolts, but 8mm X 1.25 is correct.

Yes Alfa, That is what I remembered also. Thanks to MikeW (aka Super Sleuth) for finding the thread. Quoting from the thread: "By the way, Mr.MATSUO told me steering wheel is made of wood and plastic. I saw this topic on the web before,"real wood or plastic?" He said this technology was a very special of another japanese company, they use real wood over the metal core and pooring lickid plastic then pressed with very strong forece. So the steering wheel is made of real wood,but same time made of plastic.

Maybe kids, maybe just rust (from condensation), jellified (is that a word?) old gasoline, and rotted rubber from the hoses. Either way it sounds like it's going to be difficult to get it all out. Hopefully the "plug" doesn't extend through the entire line. Good Luck!

Ah, Now the price sounds in the correct range for OEM Door seals.

Sorry, having seen and touched my ruined wheel, I am convinced that it is made of wood and some chemical/resin/plastic (whatever). The material in my wheel did splinter somewhat at the breaks. I'm not interested in going through the discussion again, but if someone is interested enough to find Kat's post on the subject, I believe it will be seen how the wheel material was actually described. Who is Chiba?

I believe that Kats reported to us that in one of his discussions with Mr. Matsuo he was told that the steering wheels were indeed made of wood, but that the wood was impregnated with some kind of resin. In my youth I was involved in an accident in a Z and busted the steering wheel by stiff-arming the wheel at impact. The wheel defintiely appeared to be wood with some product infused throughout the wood fibers. Based on the grain and pores in the wood, it looks like it could be some variety of mahogany (possibly red) to me. It is definitely not oak wood, though red oak stain could be close to the original color. BTW, the photo's attached are not mine. They were posted on Eric Neyerlin's www.zparts.com site

Many "full service" radiator shops can boil out your tank, open it up if needed, sandblast any corrosion, and seal the entire tank for you. You can buy the vent hoses from Nissan (some are pricey), or you can use generic "fuel/oil rated" hose from a Parts house for most of them. There is the one hose with the 180 degree bend (at the rear of the tank) that I suggest purchasing from Nissan, the others I just use "fuel/oil rated hose" from the parts store. The sender unit is (was recently) still available from Nissan. I don't think it comes with the rubber sealing O-ring, so order one of those also. Check prices at places like Courtesy Nissan, Motorsport Auto, etc before ordering parts. Prices can vary greatly. Always as if they give a discount to Classic Z Car Club www.classiczcars.com , or Internet Z Car club www.zhome.com As for the metal fuel line (the one through the trans tunnel to the engine bay) I have only replaced it with the drive train removed, so I can't say how difficult it would be with the drivetrain in place.

YES, that Anti-Fog RAIN-X is the worst thing I've ever experienced on glass. Do they still sell it? If so, WHY?

Said more eloquently than I would have.

There was some good info on the Full Throttle show, but it was lame to build-up a Sports Car with a 4bbl carb and then race it on a drag strip. We discussed this in a separate thread. The "brothers" that star in the show were lame too. Not sure if I've seen the other one you mentioned.

Been discussed a lot. try a search on "fumes". There are several causes and solutions.