Bambikiller240

Yeah, sort of like an Olympic Gold Medal athlete being the "proud" father of ..............Carrot-Top, or (fill in your own idea of a MAJOR genetic disappointment) Obviously "Darwinism" is a foreign concept at Nissan/Renault these days!:beard:

Cels240: At Disneyland, back in the "old days", before the price of admission included unlimited trips on all of the attractions, you were given a book of tickets as you entered the park. The tickets were labeled A, B, C, D, and E. You got quite a few of the A, B, C, tickets, but only a few of the D or E tickets. The Merry-Go-Round or other lesser ("tame") attractions required an A, B, C, or D ticket for a ride or entry. The very best, or WILD i.e FUN attractions, required an "E" ticket. To those of us who came of age in the 60's and 70's; an "E ticket ride" was synonymous with the best or wildest ride you could expect. My point was that if you'll notice, the damage appears completely external to the passenger cabin. No busted windshield either. In a modern car such as the 350Z, with seatbelts properly used, and todays front and side airbags, and crush zones built into the chassis to absorb the energy of a crash; the occupants probably only have "Skidmarks in their Shorts" to show for the incident. Carl (still un-P.C.)

NO! if they had their seatbelts on (as they should have) this should not have been anything more than an "E" ticket ride. Carl (the UN-P.C. one!)

Good thing it's only a Golden Toad, and not a CLASSIC 240Z. Now, THAT would make me sad. :devious:

If you don't need it, I'll take it off of your hands. Anything to help a fellow Z Phreak. :stupid: :stupid:

SO, how local are you? Sorry, I don't weld (never learned, & regret that) I've done some work with POR15 recently so I can advise in that area. Also do my own suspension, brakes, & most other mechanical work. I've been hoping that a group of locals could be loosely formed that would be willing to lend each other a hand when a project bogs down or an "extra pair of hands" is needed for a job that requires more than one pair. i.e. engine install, or clutch R&R, etc. If this sounds like something you (or others local to Pleasanton) might be interested in establishing, please post.

Sorry, tanny. Correcto, I didn't make the connection there. My apologies.:stupid: :stupid: :tapemouth

Just curious, if the Voltage Reg. was not even plugged in, WHY would you replace it? Was the car working normally before you put the new one in and plugged it back into the electrical system? When you plugged in the new Volt Reg, I assume you had to remove the "wires taped into the female end". If the car was working normally WITHOUT the Reg and WITH those "taped in" wires, when you now remove the connection to the Reg, you'll have to re-intall those wires in the female connector to get things back to normal. Just be sure that you get them back EXACTLY where they were originally, or you'll FRY something, if not EVERYTHING!!!!!

If you don't like the thread, don't view it! Afterall, it IS in the FUNNYBONE FORUM, it's easy to avoid. Self-Control Grass-Hopper, use Self-Control!! PS you are only the 2nd person to Whine about it in the 4+ months it has been going!

Yeah, by now; after an 80 mile cruise, the fuel lines ought to have no water in them. If there was crud (solids) in the fuel, I'd still blow them out. Including the return line to the tank. I still say to make them pay for your inconvenience in addition to the costs involved in solving the problems. You can't be the only customer that got screwed by this. If you can find others, band together and threaten to file suit for damages. There isn't any excuse for this situation in this age. The station should have filters and they must not be maintaining them for this to happen.

Did you drain all of the contaminated fuel from the fuel lines? All the lines from the tank to the Carbs? Next step is to send the "service" station owner to Singapore to be caned! Ought to get a couple hundred bucks for your trouble in addition to the costs incurred! :devious:

Others of us would enjoy the rebiuld process very much and would like to have the car done up in an EXACT, SPECIFIC manner, and would get satisfaction from knowing that the Resto was done in exactly the correct way. Or at least in the way that we wanted it to be done. Not saying one way is better than the other. That is a personal decision. Myself...............I'd like one of each, Please! :stupid: Ya right, Deam on , Bambikiller! It ain't in the budget:disappoin

Thanks for the scans Enrique. I'll add them to my file for use in the project. The numbers and letters are quite clear, so no enlargement is needed. Thanks for taking the time to scan and upload them for all of us to refer tol! Carl

Beats the heck out a regular Christmas tree and as much fun to "take down", as it is to "set up"!

Hi Enrique: No, it's not your explanation that makes it seem complicated, it's my mild case of dyslexia. We probably have a similar outlook in regards to working on our cars. I am very meticulous in working step, by step, checking everything twice, then checking again, just to be sure I didn't miss anything the first two times that i checked. This approach has "saved my bacon" more than once and as a result I find it difficult if not impossible to work any other way. PS : It's those "tiny details" that make the difference between wiper arm scratches on the hood and a completed job that one can be proud to have accomplished (IMHO, anyway)!!:stupid: I probably won't attempt the refurbishment until Spring, but when the time comes, I'll remember your kind offer of assistance. Thank you!

All of the original Minilite wheels that I've seen had 8 spokes. Back in the day (late 70's - early 80's) a Small Wheel Store chain in No. California made some wheels that were similar to the real deal Minilites and called the "Europa's" I had a set of these Europa's on my 1973 (long gone now):disappoin and the wheel pictured in the original post looks exactly like the wheels that I owned. Just an observation, other companies may have ripped off the Minilite design as well. The Minilites were quite difficlut to get here and the demand was there to be supplied by anyone with similar looking wheels.:classic:

Though the other explanations may be correct, I did NOT have this switch on the 1973 240Z that I used to own (mfg 3/73). I have no further suggestion to offer as to what it could be, sorry

My experience is solely with 240Z's but it sounds like the car originally came with the 240Z type of Alternator with an external voltage regulator, and that someone replace the Alt. with an internally regulated one. IF this was done they would have left the old regulator un-connected and made a jumper wire or two at the wiring harness. In some cases people have had to add a diode to the circuit to keep current from flowing "backwards" and preventing the vehicle from responding to the ignition switch being turned off. I'm sure others with more specific information will chime in here, but I don't believe this problem will be difficult or expensive to resolve. OK, Z Electrics Upgraders, this is your que to leap in and help kjo!

Hoping that I know the answer to be the latter and not the former, I ask.....Are we talking $!0kUSD or $10k AUS ???? It appears from your description and the photo's to be a very nice example of un-molested 240Z, however $10k USD would seem IMHO to be a bit much, on the other hand (if my currencey conversion guestimate is close, $10k AUS would be a bargain these days.

Looks like you found a nice car! Congrats!

The VISPeR Installer does appear. That's where I'm clicking on the INSTALL button. But nothing happens when I click that button. The files that appeared when I did the UNZIP are: BASS.DLL 90.4 kb FILE_ID 1018 bytes VSP INSTALL 291 kb legoland (GIF) 14.1 kb UNRAR.DLL 52.0 kb VSP 539 kb VISPER (doc) 10.6 kb INSTALL (setup info) 360 bytes BTW, they unzipped into their own folder WITHIN the original folder that I created to download the 4 files from the Net. What seemed weird to me was when downloading the zipped "install" file from Angelfire it was only 444kb in size where the other 3 files were over TWO MEGS each. Anyway, I'm not much of a gamer anyway. Probably not worth either of our time to mess with this anymore. But I do appreciate your time to try to help me with this Mike! Thank you Carl

Gav240z: No worries! I just get frustrated when computer things don't work out for me. I follow directions real well, but am not knowledgable in regards to computers. When things so't work as advertised without problems, I'm lost. ggod luck at the shop

And your point would be.............................????? Thanks Mike! Glad I'm not missing much. My system has winzip, but I'm no techo-geek. I'd just been selecting "un-zip all files" from the menu that is presented. If that doesn't get me what I want... I don't need it! Thanks again, Carl

Nope. Can't do that. When I right click on the link(s) the "Save Target" part of the menu is not active. It cannot be selected. I've also tried to cut and paste the link into a browser window. Whatever it is that I';m downloading (444 kb worth, AIR) doesn't do anything after being UNZIPPED. I quit. I've definitely got better things to waste my time on than THIS screwed up deal!

From elves that don't work fast enough! :stupid::stupid: