Bambikiller240

MSA sells rebuilt Master-Vac units on an exchange basis. If your vacuum hoses or check valve are not the problem, I'd spring for one of these. FWIW, Carl

Sorrt, I can't resist.........It makes you VERY "EXPERIENCED".

OK Steve, we'll let you back onto the fold. Not really sure anyone thought ill of you over the sugestion that you were "behind" the deletion. (that was a pun)

Question? What Question? Oh, That question...........................Here's my answer: I don't know. Now can we go back to watching the Butts wiggle?

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Regarding your "new" avatar---------:cross-eye :cross-eye

Gavin: Sounds like it could be the brake SHOE being worn down to metal and that brake shoe metal is now eating at the brake drum. Unless you want to replace the brake drum, I'd drive the car very little until you address this issue. It does not take too much metal on metal wear to ruin the drum, and they aren't cheap to replace (at least here in the US they aren't. Good Luck with final exams & the car!

You use a different size feeler guage when doing them cold and this compensates for the expansion of the metal which wil occur when the engine is warm. I always do mine stone cold also.

It is really a judgement call. Experience certainly helps. You want the feeler guage to be able to slide between the cam and rocker SMOOTHLY, with a bit of resistance, but not so much resistance that the feeler trys to bend or jam as you move it back and forth. So loose of a fit that it slides VERY easily is not good, just as too tight is not good. The best suggestion that I can offer, is to have someone who knows what they are doing complete an adjustment of your valves, then jump in there yourself and use a feeler guage to actually experience how the guage should feel as it is placed between the rocker and cam when the gap has been properly adjusted.

I'm looking to trade the "spare" N36 Intake Manifold that I have for an earlier style E88 Intake Manifold in similar good condition. Some folks, mostly racers feel that the N36 Intake flows better than the E88, so if you want one, let me know. I'd rather have the E88 that belongs on my stock 72 if I can get one without spending any money. I'm in the SF Bay area. Thanks, Carl

The loss of vac. can explain the pedal going to the floor using just your finger, but if the brake system is bleeding properly, you should be able to get a reasonably firm pedal without the engine operating. Bleed the Master Cylinder first, then you bleed Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Right Front, then Left Front? (for a LHD car) OH, if you have a RHD car you probably need to do LR, then RR, the LF, then RF since the Master Vac and Cyl are on the "wrong" side of the car.

The Vac Hose from the manifold is a two piece hose.The check Valve is mounted in a bracket on the firewall IN BETWEEN the two hose pieces that connect the Brake Booster to the Intake manifold. It's a small round valve supported in a bracket at the firewall.

As long as both the valves are fully closed, it doesn't matter which in order the cylinders are adjusted. Operator Choice!

My Craftsman wrenches fit just fine, as do the Mac, and Snap-On wrenches that I own. Not saying there aren't any differences between the brands, but they all fit just fine for me. Operator error is the likely culprit. (IMO)

Oh, Poo!!!!!!!!! (!)

I'll hop quickly (and briefly) in on this one too. I agree that the warning should have been sufficient. From that warning, the easliy offended should have been averting their eyes (or hitting the "BACK" button on their web browser). The bad language was a bit of overkill (too many "F's"), but since it was lifted from a Standup comedy routine, that is to be expected. I disagree with this statement completely, but Enrique is welcome to his opinion. The same words mean THE SAME THING no matter where or how they are conveyed IMHO. But this doesn't mean they are always appropriate either. Bottom lines for me are: A) that this area is the Funnybone forum and y'all were warned. there were enough "F's" to detract slightly from the humor about half way through the list..... but it was still funny.

In My Humble Opinion.

27MM

kats: Thank You So Much for all of the information that you are giving to us!! I look forward any additional information you are able to get permission to post, and to the continuation of this thread by all who have information to share. PS: I KNEW the steering wheel had to be made of "wood AND plastic" (having broken one in an accident and observing the interior structure). It looked like wood that had been soaked to the core with resin or plastic. You could see the wood fibre, splinters, etc.; but it was not "plain, untreated" wood internally.

ROFL LOL :stupid: :stupid: Oh,....... I'm Dying Over Here!!!!!!!!!!!!

My understanding of the discussion is that (E) includes both HLS30 and HS30 for EXPORT (i.e. not for the Japanese domestic Market. ) Someone correct me if I'm out to lunch here.

For What It's Worth

So I just include the data within the "code" tags as you did, correct? You are speaking to a computer (semi) illiterate person. i.e. what I've learned has been 99.9% trail and error. Thanks for the info. If I have misunderstood, please correct me. Thanks!

Hi Mike: Yeah, that's what I thought. So I didn't go that route. $86 seemed a bit more than I thought a battery powered quartz clock was worth. I got a 280Z Quartz movement that was installed into the 240Z housing using the face and hands of the 240Z (Jeco) clock, so it looks completely normal from a 240Z perspective. Keeps perfect time too!

Check with Danny's Datsuns or Eric Neyerlin's ZParts one or the other of these folks should be able to help you out.