Bambikiller240

Yep, I found out the difference just like you did. Figured this was a good time to document the differences. I have a Choke lever assembly for the early type and one of the later types as well, so I'm stocked in case I get another (earlier) Z that needs parts.

When I rebuilt my Engine, I used parts from Motorsport Auto and Nissan OEM. Many of the items from Motorsport were OEM (like the Oil Pump, Trans Mount and Diff Mount. I'm not sure where the Head Bolts MSA sold me came from (they were in a plain plastic bag when received). I can't help with brand names since I tossed the boxes and didn't pay much attention to them anyway. Your lists (above) didn't mention them, but I'd get new Head Bolts. Sorry I can't be of more help.

How have you tried to remove it so far? Is it a bronze bushing, or a Steel Roller Bearing?

About two years ago I had some brake lines manufactured by Inline Tube Co. If you have the original line, you can send it to them and they will make an exact copy. My lines came out very nice. The only difference from the original lines is that I have to use a slightly larger wrench on the fitting. Just like when you buy metric bolts at the hardware store, the threads are correct, but the hex-head of the fitting is not JIS form factor that Nissan used. They can make the lines in Mild Steel, or Stainless Steel. http://www.inlinetube.com/ Here is another place that may be of help to you. I have not used them. http://www.classictube.com/

That SUCKS. Hope you get the parts soon.

I haven't been keeping track of them, since I bought mine (as a spare) sometime in late 2003. I have seen them periodically though, but since I now have two of them I haven't paid much attention to them. It's certainly possible that there haven't been any in the past month, but they do appear from time to time. FWIW, I couldn't be bothered to "prove" anythng to you. If you don't believe that I bought mine on eBay, that's your perogitive, but it doesn't change the reality of the situation. Everyone is on a different budget, so perhaps a savings of $5 may make a difference to someone. The one that I purchased cost me about $10 delivered. There are sellers of NEW parts (just like Courtesy) and sellers of USED parts on eBay and they don't ONLY sell the "rare" early parts (exclusively). Claiming that ONLY the "early" choke knob can be found on eBay is misleading and simply not true. In case anyone else is interested, there are at least two different sizes of Choke Knob set screws used in the 240Z years. See attachment. (parts purchased on eBay!)

I had no trouble finding one on eBay for my 72 Z. I think you'd find that Courtesy will charge no less than $6-8 for shipping ANYTHING.

Are you sure that a previous owner didn't swap Diffs? I would think that Nissan would have done the job correctly if chages needed to be made on the assembly line.

I disagree that Nissan parts in this application are not critical. Suspension and Steering parts are kinda important to your safety. I bought less expensive tie-rod ends (though not from VB) and they are definitely inferior from my standpoint. First, they are not as "beefy" in terms of construction, and secondly they do not have provision for a Zerk fitting to regrease them. The manufacturer deems them to be "sealed" and "lifetime lubricated". Had I the chance to make the purchase again, I would go with OEM Nissan units for Tie-Rods AND Ball-Joints. I'd be more than surprised if VB is selling Moog or Spicer. Their pricing is way too low for those brands. IMO is't better to KNOW what you will receive before you layout any money that you cannot get back if you aren't satisfied with the parts. JMO

the "computer brain" should only be necessary if you are going to use the EFI from the ZX. In which case you would need the entire Engine management system including all sensors, wiring, etc. If you are just going to used the ZX distributor, the "computer brain" is not needed.

In the fullness of time you'll likely find all varieties of Z Choke knob on eBay.

No, I don't have pics. With the moustache bar off the studs, I just put two nuts on a stud and used them to unscrew each stud from the back cover. Then I took the studs to the Hardware store and got bolts of the proper diameter, thread size, and length. (NOT the same length as the studs, but proper length to go through the moustache bar and into the cover without bottoming out). Bolted the mustache bar to the Diff and installed it all as one unit. IIRC, I used a lock washer also. Now, if needed, I can remove the bolts and drop the Diff straight down, or support the Diff and drop the moustache bar a little bit easier than was previously possible. Of course I'd loose points in a ZCCA competition for STOCK class.

Hey, Whatever works. Just wish I had my camera, for the "Boobs" thread.

Well, at least I didn't spill the beans on using Carbon Fibre Cardb............., Oops, Nevermind.

...............eBay

Cardboard and Duct Tape?

2nd 2 Pics are Assembly NOTE: Orientation of parts is very important to proper functioning. Orientation shown is for when the Motor is in the proper "PARK" position.

Hi Joseph: The only thing I can think of is that possibly the connector that connects to the output shaft of the motor and then attaches to the Operating rods might be damaged in some way. This connector is made up of about 9 parts including the Main Operating Rod. On one of the mechanisms that I got from Parts cars, the spring in this assembly had the "locating tang" worn off so that the spring could not be locked into a fixed position. I'm thinking that it's possible that this would cause something similar to what you describe. Unfortuately, the only way to examine this part of the Operating Mechanism is to remove the entire system from the car and disassemble the connector. I'm attaching some picture that I took while disassembling and assembling my connectors. NOTE: Please keep in mind tha these pictures depict an HLS30 (Left Hand Drive S30) Wiper System. First 2 Pics are Disassembly

Actually I was referring to removing the Moustache bar from the studs (after the nuts have been loosened/removed) while the diff remains mounted to the car by the front mount, and supported by a floor jack. Some of us have removed the studs from the Diff back cover, and now use bolts (through the moustache bar) into the cover to make it easier to drop the moustache bar in order to access and remove the Diff cover..

Sounds FRENCH to me. Homeland Security will want to investigate.

The "mounts" (Trans and Diff) that I got from MSA were Nissan OEM, I wonder if VB supplies the same, or ships aftermarket junk?

Motorsport Auto will have what you need. http://www.zcarparts.com/ R180 is the Diff, not the Trans. Sometimes (like in the FSM) the Trans mount is called a Rear Engine Mount, most other places will call it a Transmission Mount.

Front Diff mount is the most common cause.

Are you referring to difficulty getting the moustache bar disconnected from the studs on the Diff cover?