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lordbiotree

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Everything posted by lordbiotree

  1. Todd Welcome to the club. It's great to have another knowledgeable member. Here in Florida they nail you to the wall if your under 25. I keep a 4X4 truck under full insurance. Anything with a 4X4 is insured as a sports car. What a bummer. needless to say I'm unable to keep the Z under full coverage. Neither can I get Collectible Car Insurance:stupid: I never drive the Z. No worries about thieves
  2. Is there supposed to be a link? I don't see one
  3. What are you trying to do? Is this going to be a restoration project or a daily driver? Sounds like the car could be a good candidate for both. 1,000-1300 for the car is not that bad.
  4. lordbiotree replied to maabus03's topic in Help Me !!
    The old plugs are probably miss firing like crazy. A cheep fix to this is to take a wire brush to them. Make sure they are gaped right. They should be pre gapped. The wires should be fine as long as a mouse has not gotten to them. Check for corrosion. Check inside the dizzy. Make sure everything's right. Points might need to be cleaned. Z cars are cold nature. Use the choke to keep the engine running until worm. You've made the first big jump. Getting the car started and moving. -Brandon
  5. lordbiotree commented on Z Kid's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  6. On a well maintained car you probably just have a short in a wire.
  7. I voted probably not. I like the idea of being able to seat 4 people on the fly. Personally I cant stand how the 2+2's look. If I wanted to haul 4 people I would pull out my g/f's pathfinder or my X-cab Nissan truck.
  8. lordbiotree replied to maabus03's topic in Help Me !!
    I'm just going to throw in some ideas. You need to change the Oil/filter before you even try to start the car. If everything's good the car will start with a frozen pulley. You will just burn up your brand new belt. No, a frozen pulley will not keep the car from starting. After 6 years, all the rubber is dry-rotten cracked and even melted. All the belts and hoses should be changed before you try to start the car. If your just trying to kick it off. You probably could do that. But by any means don't expect the car to move on it's own. You need to but a battery charger for your garage and a good battery. The best thing might be a battery maintainer that stays with the car.They will expand the life of a rarely used batt. There is so much more. Please Explain what you are trying to do. What sounds you hear. What you want to do with the car. What you have done to try and get the car started. When you tried to start the car what did it do (which sounds and where were they coming from). -Brandon
  9. I do not have a problem with the 350Z. My personal opinion is anything on a 350Z (Z33) has no place on a first generation Z (240,260,280). -Brandon
  10. SHOCKED! :surprised :hurt: James will be very missed. It'll take me a while to get over it. James almost never missed a post. Very intelligent, great hearted man. upon arriving at the site I've been in totally shock-surprised. James was kinda like a best friend you talk to every day. You see him, you talk to him, you read his thoughts. You never think that your not going to see him tomorrow. For me this club is a part of my everyday life. You learn who and what people are. It's very hard when a person with such a big influence as James is gone. My heart is with you Delta -Brandon P.S-I'm too disgusted to talk about Zcar.com. I will forever NEVER go over there again.
  11. You can host the website at Yahoo (geocities) fro free. Ad based is the only draw back. They give you 25 megs of storage space. Don't know the bandwidth limit.
  12. Early 1974's are basically 240Z's with the L26. Late 1974's are basically 280Z's with the L26. If the car is an early 260Z most things non cosmetic will swap over.
  13. That all depends on what we are talking about. For a daily driver the 72 is a better choice. For the collector the 72 is not as desirable. I'll leave it at that. wishihada240z, I'm glad you decided not but purchase that rust bucket. Take your time. The right car will come on the market. -Brandon
  14. The only way a turbo would be cost effective is if your doing all the work your self. The paint job alone (what ever color you chose) will be around 3K. A used turbo with computer is around 500-800. Add another 500 it have a shot install it. then look at the rust problems. This car better have absolutely no cancer if your planning on running a 300-400HP setup. Then you are going to have drive train problems. The stock 280Z 5-speed cant handle much over 300HP. You'll going to need a T-5 tranny. -Brandon
  15. I've never noticed a such thing on my 1971 240Z. -Brandon
  16. Clearly they are not an exact match. Lord help me if this is what I'm looking forward to when I replace my seat covers.
  17. Man that car is ugly as sin. The lights and the front bumper has got to go. Who in the right mind would put a aftermarket sunroof in a Z? $14K?!?!? I can but one heck of a nice 240-Z for that kind of money. -Brandon
  18. PrOxLaMuS© you got it under control. Yes, you can. It would me more cost efficient to buy a L28ET. a stock l28et with the computer will run you about $500. You'll spend bookooo's trying to get your L28E Turboed. -Brandon 71 240Z
  19. I thought they quit making oldsmobiles a long time ago. Well at least I got the word that they were going to quit a while back Here's a link to an article about the last olds http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/4862841/
  20. Welcome to the club I'm glad to have another Nissan tech in the club kick back and relax -Brandon
  21. You need to keep looking. 72's are not worth that kind of money. Yes, I am restoring a Z with similar kind of problems. Back in 2001 I bought a series 1 1971 240-Z. Did not run he wanted $800. I gave him $700 paid a $100 to flat bed it home. It has great body panels, no rusty battery try. The only problem was the floor pans has totally rusted away. It's been sitting while I gather parts, equipment needed to do the job. I'm not even going to think about the kind of money it would take for you to pay someone els to fix the problem. A good job on the floor pans would be around 2K. Body panels and a good paint job 3K. The rust on the back hatch $$$. -Brandon
  22. What year is the car. If it's a 70-71 yes the 900 you sent him is worth the money. 72-73 don't bother.
  23. mmmmmmm I would say no more than $900. Considering it runs, full documentation on repairs and the such. You've got major rust problems. None of the which can't be fix without good honest hard work. The only rust I don't like is on http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=84785 That is not easy to fix. The rest can be patched up painted and worked with. For a fully restoration project I would not pick this car. For a daily driver It would be a ok choice. -Brandon
  24. Hi!

    lordbiotree replied to ElaineZ's topic in Open Chit Chat
    Welcome As a regular you'll get to know the club. -Brandon
  25. Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks the writer is NUTS. Hyundai is the same a KIA. There all Junk. Here in the us Toyota's hold a higher value than Honda's Then it's Nissan. Somewhere in the 4-5 spot there's an American made brand. -Brandon
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