Victor Laury

Just to add - My problem is EVERYTHING dims and/or slows when the car idles. So far, this is want I've done- Refreshed the grounds - harness ground on the right side rail (near the starter), Firewall ground (straight to the - post) Replaced every fuse with new replaced fusebox with new. Swapped voltage regulator with another used unit that worked well in my last Z. Cleaned headlight, front turn and front marker connectors when I had the front of the car apart I still have the problem at this point. I've got to keep my idle up around 1,200 or the headlights dim, the turn signals, heater fan and wipers slow to almost nothing and the Amp gauge dips deep into discharge. ---- Things I plan to do - clean every light socket. Install the relay modification - Just got a beautifull set of Hella relays today. - I want to do this cause I got a set of H-4's waiting to be installed.

Enrique, What about the dash harness/engine harness connector on the right side foot well? Should we dissassmble and clean that as well? Any guide to identify that connector?

I believe Nissan knew what they were doing by exporting the 240's with the missing "Sports car" equipment (rear sway bar, 5 speed, lower rear ratio). Why should they have? What did Americans know about sports cars anyway? Now, I'm not talking about people like us. We are a nitch market at best. In the 60's, 70's and 80's, American (taken as a whole) wanted "Sporty" cars, not Sports cars. comfortable cars with a sporty look. "Look at me!" I'm young and sporty!" What would have been the cost benifit of installing equipment the main body of buyers would not have appriciated in the first place? Then there's the market in Europe, who I'm sure Nissan felt was smaller and more savy to what a sports car was about. The home market was VERY tiny. Those who could afford to buy an S30 wanted a Japanese supercar. The closer to the real thing, the acuall race cars winning the Japanese GP, the better. The HLS30 was not an "American car built in Japan", It was a Japanese sports car, dressed down and packaged for the American market.

The Internet can be a usefull thing, right? I wanted to find out the bulb #s (1157, 1158 for example) for all the signal and marker bulbs on the 240. I searched this site and aboutl a dozen others and came up with nada. Let's make a list of all the bulbs on the 240Z and place it in an FAQ somewhere. If you know of a bulb designation, please add it in your comments.

Alan T wrote: As a representative of a big, tall American, I am more than happy of this configuration on both of my classic Datsun sports cars.

As a Roadster fan, I wish they'd make a real, light, cheap true sports, roadster model (not based on any model with a top). If they timed it's release with the revival of the Datsun marque and mached Mazda in Grassroots racing support programs, it would be my offical seventh heaven and I'd once more know the debit of car note!

I can only add, I didn't have this problem until last month when I installed my Ztherapy total restoration. Everything is lubed. As a matter of fact, the throttle pedal is way lighter now, As if ZT sent me lighter return springs. Well, If I try to creep at below 5 MPH - Wow! do I ever get into a surge cycle! I believe I've bruised a collar bone with my shoulder belt. I think I'm going to change my pedal height (rod length through the fire wall) and see if that helps. Too bad, my pedal is now right where I like it and can easily "heel toe" in it's current position.

Some of our members only have a 260Z or 280Z or S130. But if you included all those choices, it would be a complex poll!

Got home to find that my 240Z.org tee-shirt and sticker had been delivered. Pretty fast for their slowest, least costly shipment choice!

I've bought a few items from Andy in the past, but, when I contacted him for a Euro Bumper, I was told "Andy sold us the buisness". These folks are Z Cars of Arizona (not to be confused with "Arizona Z Cars). Even so, the deal went through without a hitch.

Even after all these items where replaced, I still had had a buzz goin on. Turned out the plastic cover over the shift pattern display was loose. (1st)Bzzzzt(2nd)buzzzzzzzzzzz(3rd)Buuuuuzzzzzzzzzz(4th)Buuuuuuuuuzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz A little super clue finaly solved my problem.

If you plastic media blast the car, you'll be ahead of the game and it's well worth the money (i'll guess about $600). The plastic media will not distort the 510 body panels the way sand blasting will. It will not blast out the rust but you'll be in the best posisstion to sspot blast those areas. My media blaster can spray primer (Thanks a lot AQMD ). So I had to find a body shop nearby to haul the work to after blasting

Whoa! I'm try to decipher his question. I think he may be inquiring about rod bolts? 8mm vs 9mm rod bolts Big ended bottom end? Reminds me of my Trinidadian girlfriend!

Just how much different is this car from the 610 coupe? Wheelbase/track? There's a nice 73 610 coupe for sale, If I installed an L6 and a roadster trans, just how close could I get?

Kyle's write up on the proceedures was a good primer for me. Anybody know where it is?

I must admit, Your'e finding some fine looking east coast cars!

Alan, Here in the States where we drive on the funny side of the road, I've never considered the E brake handle strange. That's the way it is in my roadster. I'm even happy it's arranged this way. I'm too big for both cars anyway. If the Ebrake handle was on the left, It would dig into my thigh. When I drove Les Cannady's Fairlady Z, I was amazed on how fast I adapted to sitting right. The hassle is overtaking, where you've got to swing right to peer around the car in front and then dive left to pass. Now that's awkward!

Not too many L-6's in roadsters. There also the problem with engine height as well. The U-20 and R-16 motors where rather short engines. We have enough trouble swapping L-4's in there with cutting the hood. In the late 80's, One of our vendors, Stan Chernoff, developed a swap kit for L-4's where you didn't have to "Raise the Scoop". My dream has always been to replicate the almost legendary "Roadster S". A prototype racer Nissan campained briefly in Japan only. It was outfitted with the prototype of the engine that would end up in the fairlady 432 (crossflow, hemi, DOHC, 2L six). But this roadster was 4 inches wider and several inches longer than your normal SR/SP roadster

Internals, Yes. But We got no, 0, rear Wheel Drive SR20's And none of the Turbo's. just FWD SR20DE's. Still an Awesome engine. It's the most desired swap for a roadster. The few that have been done look very natural under a roadster bonnet. Iv'e only seen 1 DET swap and it wasn't very clean.

St.Steven, You left out the evil laugh - BBBBWWWOOOOOHAAAHAAAHAAAHAAAA!

Looks Sweet! My only beef is the door ding trim. Personal taste - I hate that stuff

Ahh! true!

I wouldn't suggest setting the advance to 5 BTDC arbitrarily. Many Z's have had a distributor swap in their past and just suggesting a setting may kill performance or kill an engine. Different markets came with different dizzys as well. Much better to set your timing using total advance of 32 Degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance off and plugged @ 2,500 RPM. So, no matter what the initial mechanical advance is setup for, you'll know you've got it right.

Oops! Doesn't seem to be a franchise in Sputh Carolina though. http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm